Auto A/C experts

Mike M · Aug 19, 2015

Niece has a 2008 CRV and the A/C isn't working. I told her to swing by and I'd see if it just needed Freon added. Well I stuck the elcheepo gauge on the low side and it pegged it ! I don't have the good gauges that hook to both sides so I don't know where the high is at. What would cause this ? I let some out until it read in the normal range and compressor still won't kick on. Told her well so much for being a simple fix I'm done.
I was able to use a stick and turn the compressor so maybe it's not junk ? You can't see anything or reach anything on this model.

Buddy · Aug 19, 2015

Expansion valve.

1130Leo · Aug 19, 2015

My wife also has a 2008 CRV, hers was acting up, I checked the Freon, it appeared a little low on hers, so I tried to top it off. It then went a little high, had to back it off some. It now works on hers, but only when the outside temp is below 84 degrees, initially I had ordered a new compressor thinking it was shot, found out two days later when the temp dropped it was working.... Apparently they have a bit of a goofy system, have been told on hers it could be as simple as the A/C Clutch relay is bad, when hot does not pull in, or it could be the clutch. I have not yet finished figuring that one out. Will updated if I find more. I like the Honda, not liking their A/C too much at the moment though.

JF in MI · Aug 19, 2015

Without the compressor running a high reading on the low side is normal. The compressor has to be running to check.

Bryan inIowa · Aug 19, 2015

You will get a high low side on anything without compressor running. I have seen a bunch of CRV's that vintage with bad compressor clutches. If fully charged,meaning,evacuate, vac ,and recharge to spec! No compressor operation usually points to failed clutch ,which means time for new compressor . Not fun to replace, but not terrible. Expansion valve however,is in air box with evap core .

guido · Aug 19, 2015

Hello 1130 Leo,

It is likely low on refrigerant or the condensate drain is not working properly. Nothing to do with relay or clutch if it works Guido.

jimg.allentown · Aug 19, 2015

Take it to a professional. Letting out refrigerant into the atmosphere is a federal offense punishable by HUGE fines. Somewhere in the vicinity of $20,000 per incident.
However, in order to effectively repair an A/C system, you need to effectively DIAGNOSE the system. Need to check out the overall operation and state of the system. This can only be done with the proper equipment - like a good set of gauges, vacuum pump, DVOM, and SERVICE MANUALS.
When the compressor is not running, the pressure will equalize between the high and low side. This will generally give a reading in the 100 to 120 psi range on most systems.

Also, a point of information: Freon is a DuPont trademark. It refers to a family of compounds that are chemically related. R-134a refrigerant is not from that chemical family. R-12, R-22, and several other chlorinated fluorocarbons are included in the Freon family. We don't use them any more. R-134a is actually Teflon in its natural state - before it has been polymerized into non-stick frying pans.

Morgan Flowers · Aug 19, 2015

(quoted from post at 13:14:18 08/19/15) Niece has a 2008 CRV and the A/C isn't working. I told her to swing by and I'd see if it just needed Freon added. Well I stuck the elcheepo gauge on the low side and it pegged it ! I don't have the good gauges that hook to both sides so I don't know where the high is at. What would cause this ? I let some out until it read in the normal range and compressor still won't kick on. Told her well so much for being a simple fix I'm done.
I was able to use a stick and turn the compressor so maybe it's not junk ? You can't see anything or reach anything on this model.

Is the fan coming on inside the vehicle?

Mike M · Aug 19, 2015

Yes it was.

Morgan Flowers · Aug 19, 2015

Ok, I was thinking the control module/resistor may have been the culprit as this happened on a friend's 2008 Honda Pilot but the inside blower motor wasn't working on his and nor was the compressor kicking in so I don't think that would be your issue..

1130Leo · Aug 19, 2015

Guido, how do I check this drain or where approximately can I find it? Based on my gauges when it is working, the refrigerant is in the proper range. I have all the equipment to do the job, just do not want to if I don't have to. Since when it works, it works great I would rather find out what really is wrong.

Thanks, Leo

mite-help · Aug 19, 2015

Does the $20,000 fine apply to 134a refrigerant? I knew it does to anything that requires a license to purchase. was in tsc & 134a was on sale-$3.99 a can to anyone. bet most buyers, if any, have recovery systems.

jimg.allentown · Aug 19, 2015

According to how the law is written, it is a federal offense to discharge any refrigerant into the atmosphere. The law requires any service facility that services air conditioners to have a recovery machine. I'm sure that the "letter of the law" is not closely followed even in licensed facilities, but I would recommend that if you do happen to release a bit of 134 into the atmosphere, it is simply not a good idea to discuss it in public. Sometimes these EPA guys get a bit over-zealous and decide to make an example of somebody. Why give them the opportunity?

mite-help · Aug 19, 2015

thanks jimg.allentown. kinda what I figured. law could be applied any time.

pete 23 · Aug 19, 2015

The way things are hid on a lot of vehicles, the simples tests become difficult. On an old tractor, you can very easily tell if you have power to the compressor for instance. That tells you a whole lot, but on modern cars, you cannot get at the connectors to even test this. Then you throw in the way they control the electronics, like sending power to most every thing but the control is done through the grounding end instead of the power in side it leaves a lot of us out of the mix. Also, testing pressures. A 30 pound canister of refrigerant, that has been standing undisturbed for a time, will show the same pressure with only a couple of pounds of refrigerant in it as it will when full, within a very small range. It is not like pumping up a tire. Also , a system that has a partial charge, enough to make it function , will show almost exact same pressure as fully charged. There again, not like checking air pressure in a tire.

jimg.allentown · Aug 19, 2015

I took the ASE certification course for refrigeration certification. They told those of us in the class a lot of scary things. Some misinformation was also handed out that defies the rules of basic inorganic chemistry as taught in the 11th grade. To pass the test, I had to give then the answers that they wanted (grin).

guido · Aug 19, 2015

Hello 1130leo,

The drain is usually easy to spot from under the vehicle. Not sure what you have, but after the air is been on for awhile you need to look under the heater a/c box. Some vehicle will have a tube under the box inside the vehicle and through the floor. You just have to look. Condensate not draining will diminish cooling capacity by fooling the thermostat. If heater flow from the engine is not properly controlled and is full on, the a/c will never catch up. One way to tell that is lots of condensate coming out, and maybe 60 degrees out of the vents, not much cooler then that. There are many faults that cause poor cooling. I just listed some. Go and take a look,
who knows, you may get lucky!

Guido.

Frank A · Aug 19, 2015

I thought the pressure at rest was supposed to be about the same as ambient air temperature. But its been awhile.

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Mike M

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Buddy

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1130Leo

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JF in MI

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Bryan inIowa

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guido

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jimg.allentown

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Morgan Flowers

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Mike M

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Morgan Flowers

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1130Leo

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mite-help

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