OT Help for a Jeep !

BANDITFARMER · Aug 15, 2015

My son came home and said his 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 smelled hot and was making a thumping noise. Long story short this is what I found when I took the front cover off. OH BOY! Now hear is the question. Can I take the ring gear carrier out and pull the pinion out and put the ring gear carrier back in and let him drive it on rear wheel drive only? The Jeep is not worth putting another front axel in and I checked the transfer case oil and it only had a pint in it so I drained it and refilled it with new oil (close to 2 quarts), But looking at the front yoke on the transfer case its been hot and I don't think it will last long. So this will be a short term fix till he can find another car. Will it work? Bandit

deene · Aug 15, 2015

I think I would take the carrier out and remove the ring gear instead and leave the pinion in so it seals the front end but I would still put lube in it and hope the carrier bearings aren't fried

BANDITFARMER · Aug 15, 2015

Problem is the pinion gear teeth are gone and the bearings are bad and its hitting the carrier, So its got to go. It would be easy to cut the ring gear off but the pinion would still be hitting the carrier. This is going to be a big pain in the butt!!!! Bandit

Mike(NEOhio) · Aug 15, 2015

I don't think that will help, Bandit. Looks like the pinion shaft bearings are shot and the shaft moved forward so the pinion hit the differential case. That would still happen if you take the ring gear off and if you take the pinion shaft out you would have to plug the hole. You shill need to keep oil in there for the bearings.

Mike(NEOhio) · Aug 15, 2015

Look for a junkyard axle??

bad monkey · Aug 15, 2015

Guess first off could you remove the front driveshaft from the tcase and drive it without losing fluid? Or another way to put it does the front driveshaft bolt on to the tcase or slide in? If it bolts on to the tcase I would try to find a front axel out of a 2wd jeep and swap that in and remove the driveshaft. Just a thought. I've seen a few 2wd grand Cherokee and Cherokee's not many just an idea.

4play · Aug 15, 2015

There are 3 different 4wd systems that came out on the ZJ's. As long as its not the AWD "all time" only you can gut diff. One other 4wd system which had 2H,4H, 4H-all time, 4L, just dont use the all time function.

If it has part time 4x4, then gut it, take the pinion out, and put it all back together . About the only other thing needed would be the stub axles, since they hold the hub/bearing together.

Sprint 6 · Aug 15, 2015

Another thing to think about is which Tcase does it have? 2hi 4hi 4low, or all time Quadratrac? The Quadritrac case may not move if both the front and rear diff are not driving. The reason is, Quadratrac case bias torque through a viscous coupling, much like an open rear end. If one drive axle is not connected, the other may not receive torque. Really, it needs a front axle. Lots of time involved to jury rig for a short term fix. Maybe walking for a week or two would teach a good lesson in vehicle up keep.

Mike(NEOhio) · Aug 15, 2015

Not quite, 4play. The front axle and drive shaft are turning whenever the front wheels are. Whether in 2 or 4 wheel.

Stephen Newell · Aug 15, 2015

My jeep is 20 years older. On mine the front axle has locking hubs. If you unlock it and not run it in 4wd you shouldn't have to do any of that. With the hubs unlocked none of the internal parts should turn.

dewy · Aug 15, 2015

done it on my 99 and 94...but the 94 will creep in park and will roll backwards into street...had to fetch serveral times...use emergncy brake and it works still drivin pull trailer with it to .......

Goose · Aug 15, 2015

Recalling my days as a Claims Adjuster working vehicle service contracts, in the mid 1990's Jeep Grand Cherokees had a lot of axle problems. Jeep used the same axles on the Grand Cherokee as on the next lighter vehicle and the axles weren't quite up to the task of the heavier vehicle.

None of which helps you now. I'd go looking for a salvage yard axle. Make sure it's the same ratio.

4play · Aug 15, 2015

(quoted from post at 22:49:37 08/15/15) Not quite, 4play. The front axle and drive shaft are turning whenever the front wheels are. Whether in 2 or 4 wheel.

Im, not sure what you are trying to say. The AWD jeep models need the front axle and driveshaft in it for park to work. The part time 4wd's it does not matter

4play · Aug 15, 2015

(quoted from post at 22:51:06 08/15/15) My jeep is 20 years older. On mine the front axle has locking hubs. If you unlock it and not run it in 4wd you shouldn't have to do any of that. With the hubs unlocked none of the internal parts should turn.

This jeep does not have locking hubs.

BANDITFARMER · Aug 15, 2015

I guess tomorrow I'll start it up and see if it will move just like it is and see what happens. It has 4 HI N and 4 Low on the transfer case lever and that's all. If it dose move I guess I'll be taking and axel apart and taking the pinion gear out and making a cap for the whole to seal it. I know there is 3 or 4 systems used in the Cherokee so I hope this will work. Bandit

4play · Aug 15, 2015

If you only have 4H N 4L, this is the system that you don't want to do that on. It might not roll immediately but might slowly creep on an incline.

BANDITFARMER · Aug 15, 2015

In the last picture you can see the yoke ware the drive shaft bolts into and you can see the yokes been hot because it's rusty looking, So no oil will come out. Also in the last picture the drive shaft is off the Jeep already. The front end in this Jeep is a strait axel the 2 wheel version has A arms set up so it wont work. An old mail Jeep axel might work if you could find one but I don't think this will happen. Bandit

BANDITFARMER · Aug 15, 2015

I really hope it works as this is only a temp fix till he can find another car, I don't think the T-case is any good as low as it was on oil and as rusty as the yoke is for the front drive shaft it looks like it got hot to me. I don't think it's worth putting more money into to fix it right. If I put another axel in it then it will be the T-case next and it's not worth it. Bandit

4play · Aug 15, 2015

the 2wd versions on these models were solid axle fronts, thats for the grand cherokee ZJ, and cherokee XJ. I don't know why you would consider a 2wd axle when you can gut the 4wd. Your biggest problem is going to be the Jeep rolling when in park.

BANDITFARMER · Aug 15, 2015

Its a Jeep Cherokee Limited so I have know idea if it will work or not. Like I said it's a temp thing till he can find another car. Bandit

JF in MI · Aug 16, 2015

What the "H" do you want to pull the yoke out for? That's more work than spending a week looking for another car (pulling the front axles, etc). If you're going to try that (and I'm not saying it'll work for the same transfer case reasons everyone else points out) just pull the cross pin, remove the diff idler gears, replace the pin and remove the drive shaft.

M-MAN · Aug 16, 2015

Don't know why you would want to try all that work when you can pick up the whole thing from a junkyard for a bill and a half and be done with it?

Janicholson · Aug 16, 2015

Removing the ring from the carrier, and the pinion will work. Plugging the pinion hole could be as easy as a rubber expander plug (for serer line cleanout). Getting it free of metal bits, out to the hubs will be important. Filling it with oil will be the easy. If the vehicle is toast, that is probably the best. If a real replacement can be found for 150, that would be a best solution. Jim

RodinNS · Aug 16, 2015

I suppose... following your basic line of thinking that it's scrap... I'd look closely at it but I assume the axles are retained by c-clips? If that's the case I'd probably remove the spider gears and then put a dab of weld on the gears on the axle shafts so they don't fall off when the spiders are removed... then scoop out whatever debris I could. Second step... if I was really worried about the integrity of the drive shaft or CV joint... I'd probably remove it entirely at the u-joints. Should be good to go then.

Rod

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