Shell oil $2/qt

Menards is selling shell oil for $2/qt. Plan to buy 5 cases, is there isn't a limit.

Sometimes Menards has shell full synthetic for $3/qt, usually a rebate involved.

Recently I haven't been able to get my oil changed at dealer, so I changed my car and
truck myself, using full synthetic.

I also noticed the rear tires on 6 cylinder GMC work truck were running about 20
degrees warmer than front, tool boxes adding extra weight. So I boosted the rear tires
5# to 40 psi. The last two times I gassed up I'm now getting 20 mpg with air on. Keep
in mind I have an egg between foot and gas peddle and I coast up to a stop sign. I
think the air pressure helped, not sure about the full synthetic.

I seriously doubt if full synthetic (versus non syn same viscosity) oil helps MPG as far as any significant accurate measureable results are concerned, it probably doesn't hurt, however proper tire inflation does indeed reduce rolling friction plus reduces sidewall flexing and heat build up. In the RV I use Full Synthetic Mobil 1 plus Lucas Synthetic Stabilizer and a 2 Qt anti drainback oil filter and that's what I will continue using as a matter of personal choice. In my Husky ZTR with twin V Kawasaki all Ive ever used is Mobil 1 and it has years and years and hours and hours of hot hard mowing with NEVER an engine of valve train problem, no smoke, no oil consumption, but again others may have different opinions to which they are entitled.

Oil type and brand opinions like spark plug brands and electrical or legal questions often draw more opinions then Carters Little Liver Pills lol

PS in our area in general Rural King has best oil prices and each week Auto Zone or Pep Boys or O Reillys or Advance Auto have specials with 5 qts of syn oil plus filter for the absolute best price in town, guess when and where I stock up????

John T

I stock up at Case (fleetguard) and napa (valvoline).

Until just recently I held same opinion. I have a new company car a Ford Explorer that gets fleet service at local valvoline oil change place. Minimum requirement for this engine is synthetic blend, full synthetic recommended. Having tried synthetic blend a few years ago in another car with poor results I opted for full synthetic. The calculated mpg on the trip odometer immediately rose 2 miles per gallon (from 20 to 22) and has stayed there. Wow! How much friction reduction must take place in an engine to achieve a mathematical result like that? I asked another mechanic about it who had studied "oil technology" in depth. He explained the molecular structure of the synthetic creates a far superior lubrication on metal than refined oil. He also stated this coating especially valuable at start up. I'm sold - synthetic in everything from now on,

$2/qt for Shell Oil
Dang that is a good price.
So much so you made me go look at it even though we do not have a Menards within 500 miles of me and oil is not available for ship to home.

Then I noticed this is 5W-20 oil.

Do you really use 5W-20 oil in your car engines????

I doubt that you'll drive 500 miles to get it, but Shell conventional 5W20, 5W30, 10W30, and 10W40 is all priced at $2/quart at Menards through August 8th.

Thanks Gambles
I see it now.

Might have to print that out and see if I can get some unsuspecting
minimum wage worker to give me a price match on that.

Or would that be considered "stealing"

5W-20 is the recommended oil in a lot of Ford engines these days, including SUVs and pickups. It was hard to find around here when they first used it but now everyone stocks it.

Got an over-the-road trucker buddy who travels north and owes you a favor? Have him bring you back a few cases.....

My boy uses 0w20 synthetic in his camery, per Toyota recommendations

not hijacking post, had someone on c-list selling 52 qts for $50, after he talked to boss bro, found out cans worth 20 apiece,,backed out on deal,, should have went and got that night...

todd,
I put full synthetic in my buick too. It now get 25 mpg and didn't do anything to air pressure. You are right, might be something to less friction, better mpg.

My 2010 6 cylinder Toyota 4 runner requires 0w20 synthetic. We bought it new and the first couple of years only Toyota service carried the oil. Then it became more common. It has 125k on it now, runs better than new (that engine was tight when breaking in) does not use or leak one drop of oil, ever. I'm a rice burner for life now!

My company car 6 cylinder 2015 Ford Explorer is 5w20. We had 2005 and 2008 Honda Accords that used 5w20.

0W-20 Been the recommended oil for Fords for 15+ years, some of their modular V-8s tend to tear up cams & such if you ignore what they recommend. Mopar, Honda and Toyota have also used 5W-20 for years, on variable displacement Mopar V-8s, you know the ones that deactivate cylinders, if you don't use 5W-20 it doesn't work. I just inherited a 2011 Camry, it recommends OW-20 and a 10,000 mile drain interval BUT you can use 5W-20 and change it every 5,000 miles. Problem is I've only found 0W-20 in a few brands Mobil 1 (never cared much for Mobil 1, don't know why, just don't) Amsoil, Royal Trident (both around $7.00/quart) and Pennzoil. I haven't used Pennzoil in anything I liked in 30 years, might have to reconsider that as I recently found out Pennzoil and Quaker State are both now owned by a company called SOPUS which means Shell oil products US, I've had good luck with Shell oil products, heck used to use Shell for all my industrial oil needs in the plant, they were much nicer to deal with than Pennzoil who wouldn't let me to have a stock book of their oils, had to go through the salesman to get any oil recommendations. Last 10 years or so in the cars and trucks I've been using Castrol or Valvoline. Recently found out that the local Auto parts "Parts master" brand oil is made by Ashland Oil, who is the parent company to Valvoline, been using that for about a year. Anyway the Camry the due an oil change and I've got a jug of Mobil 1 0W-20 ready to go, I'll see what happens. Heck if the manufacturer is to stupid to know what oil the car needs why am I driving a vehicle made by them?

5W-20 Been the recommended oil for Fords for 15+ years, some of their modular V-8s tend to tear up cams & such if you ignore what they recommend. Mopar, Honda and Toyota have also used 5W-20 for years, on variable displacement Mopar V-8s, you know the ones that deactivate cylinders, if you don't use 5W-20 it doesn't work. I just inherited a 2011 Camry, it recommends OW-20 and a 10,000 mile drain interval BUT you can use 5W-20 and change it every 5,000 miles. Problem is I've only found 0W-20 in a few brands Mobil 1 (never cared much for Mobil 1, don't know why, just don't) Amsoil, Royal Trident (both around $7.00/quart) and Pennzoil. I haven't used Pennzoil in anything I liked in 30 years, might have to reconsider that as I recently found out Pennzoil and Quaker State are both now owned by a company called SOPUS which means Shell oil products US, I've had good luck with Shell oil products, heck used to use Shell for all my industrial oil needs in the plant, they were much nicer to deal with than Pennzoil who wouldn't let me to have a stock book of their oils, had to go through the salesman to get any oil recommendations. Last 10 years or so in the cars and trucks I've been using Castrol or Valvoline. Recently found out that the local Auto parts "Parts master" brand oil is made by Ashland Oil, who is the parent company to Valvoline, been using that for about a year. Anyway the Camry the due an oil change and I've got a jug of Mobil 1 0W-20 ready to go, I'll see what happens. Heck if the manufacturer is to stupid to know what oil the car needs why am I driving a vehicle made by them?

You'll definately want to use 5W20 (or lighter) on any 3 or 4 valve per piston Ford engine. The cam phasers (variable timing) are already an issue with Ford engines - using heavier grades or dirty oil with extended mileage oil changes only makes the issue worse. I would never put 10W40 in a one of the variable timing engines unless I want to throw away a couple thousand dollars. Even after the engine has considerable wear and burning oil through the rings I would stick with the lighter grades as long as the phasers are still working.

If you have an older 4.6 or 5.4 with a 2 valve heads 10W30 is pretty much OK - especially after the miles have been run up on them.