Just bought an 08 new holland 575. Twine will tie and come through chamber and then when you pull on the twine it slips loose and comes undone. Both sides. I have lowered the hydraulic tension pressure to near nothing. Changed from tsc orang line 9600 to tie-rite blue 9600-170 which was what I had recommended to me. Hasn't worked on either twine. Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
- Thread starter TjRose81
- Start date
First,Do you have a book? Read it!If you dont have one,order one ASAP. You are a bit unclear about the slipping through... If the
knot comes undone,could be the bill hook tension is too loose.If the cut end pulls out from the twine disk,again,the tension is
to loose.Or a groove could be worn in the 'twine holder finger'. Easiest to tighten a couple turns,than tpo dismantle the knotter
to inspect the finger..Again,buy a book and read it. It will tell you what the problem is,and how to fix it. Good luck and happy
baleing
knot comes undone,could be the bill hook tension is too loose.If the cut end pulls out from the twine disk,again,the tension is
to loose.Or a groove could be worn in the 'twine holder finger'. Easiest to tighten a couple turns,than tpo dismantle the knotter
to inspect the finger..Again,buy a book and read it. It will tell you what the problem is,and how to fix it. Good luck and happy
baleing
You need to picture or describe what the knot looks like before it unties, while it is in the chamber. It could be several things that can cause an incomplete knot to be formed. With out some additional information we really are just guessing on what is wrong. The lower bale tension is just making the knot not have pressure on it as soon. Not really solving anything.
Do you know what twine was used in the baler before you bought it??? IF they ran heavier twine, like 7200, then the billhooks may need adjusting to hold the twine while the knot is tied. DO NOT just blindly adjust anything until you learn what the trouble is you can cause worse trouble than a bad knot, like broken knotters.
Also to sound like someone on here, do you have an operator's manual???? The NH manuals have a very good section on trouble shooting knotter troubles. It has pictures of what different issues will cause the knot to look like.
If you want mail me your phone number and I can try to walk you through it over the phone if you currently have hay down.
Do you know what twine was used in the baler before you bought it??? IF they ran heavier twine, like 7200, then the billhooks may need adjusting to hold the twine while the knot is tied. DO NOT just blindly adjust anything until you learn what the trouble is you can cause worse trouble than a bad knot, like broken knotters.
Also to sound like someone on here, do you have an operator's manual???? The NH manuals have a very good section on trouble shooting knotter troubles. It has pictures of what different issues will cause the knot to look like.
If you want mail me your phone number and I can try to walk you through it over the phone if you currently have hay down.
The Op's manual should have a trouble shooting page with pics of the failed knots and you pic which one you have and follow the instructions from there. If you don't have a book.... take some CLOSE UP pics of the filed knots and try to explain best you can where the knot is failing. Other than that we're only guessing.
That said..... if you've changed from twine that previously worked to this situation then I expect the problem sits in either the twine tension, holder tension or bill hook finger tension depending on what exactly is happening. You should also sharpen the twine knives as a matter of principle...
Rod
That said..... if you've changed from twine that previously worked to this situation then I expect the problem sits in either the twine tension, holder tension or bill hook finger tension depending on what exactly is happening. You should also sharpen the twine knives as a matter of principle...
Rod
I have all three manuals. I have read through them thoroughly and tried what it suggested in the "twine fails at base of knot" section. The previous owner used 9600 also. I have a bale chute extension on it and reduced more pressure on both sets of bale chamber doors and it seemed to help. Currently have 20 good bales have 20 more acres to do. Will keep updated. Thank you all.
North Vale - PA
Member
sounds like twine disk holders need to be tightened.
onefarmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- 6735 S Lowell Rd, St Johns, Mi 48879
I've battled knotter problems on my 570 since the day it came to the farm. It would break the twine just under the knot. Heavy twine 9600 or 7200ft, which ever was available, cured it for a while. I finally took the knife arm out and went over it with a file to smooth any burrs. it worked until last year. It then would knot the lower end of the twine but not the upper. Found out the upper end would fall of the bill hook. Cured it by reshaping (bending) the twine arm over to the right as far as I could get it. Been working great since.
Ended up having to loosen bale chute doors. (Both sets) and increase hydraulic tension. And it was as easy as that. Put up 1000 bales today and it didn't miss a beat. Three rows in windrow. 9 ft cut. 5-6.5 mph depeding on how flat the field was in spots. First time baling with it and I am already very pleased. I hope it keeps it up.
Hey guys. I'm back again. Had a few problems today and now the right knotter twine disc is not moving after clutch trips and everything engages. Left works fine and disc spins to grab twine just like it's supposed to. Worm gear and bevel gear are twisting and operating like they should. Any suggestions?
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