Plowing and discing

When it comes to plowing a field I've got it down. But I've seen many people go back and when they disc it they go in a figure 8 if it's a big field or go crossways through the field or go disc over the plow furrows as in where they start on the side of the field. I was wondering if anybody else does this and what's the best way and what's the purpose.
 
In new or sod ground, when you disk in other directions it will help cut the sod up better.
Most times After I plow, I first run the disk over the field/plot in the direction plowed next I go crosswise then finish with a final pass as plowed.
 

I've never seen the figure 8 pattern, don't understand the reasoning behind it, but discing at an approximately 45 degree angle to the direction it was plowed WILL help level out the ground and is about the ONLY way to fill in those dead furrows. Discing at an angle also helps considerably when planting, because you can see the mark left by the row marker.

Of course all of this works only on flat, level ground. If you have hill ground, you still need to follow the contour with the disc.
 
(quoted from post at 06:35:36 07/22/15) When it comes to plowing a field I've got it down. But I've seen many people go back and when they disc it they go in a figure 8 if it's a big field or go crossways through the field or go disc over the plow furrows as in where they start on the side of the field. I was wondering if anybody else does this and what's the best way and what's the purpose.

I don't know what the definition of a 'big' field is in your area, but here in Northwest Iowa when we moldboard plowed we disked at an angle to the plowing, maybe a 25 degree or 30 degree angle. whatever made the tractor ride the smoothest. In those days fields were 40 acres up to 160 acres. We didn't want to swing and sway and bounce in the tractor seat a whole lot when we were out there for days on end disking. We never went cross ways (rough) and very few farmers went lengthways with the plow furrow. Hitting it at an angle allowed the disk blades to throw the soil away from the plow ridges and into the gaps for better leveling. Thank goodness moldboard plowing is a thing of the past for us!
 
I haven't even seen a plow since I was a kid.

I disk it just like I would plant and then field cultivate at an angle. If there's a reason I will plant differently I change accordingly. Usually with disking I go with what's most efficient - long rows. Very few of my fields are square.

May not be a smooth ride, but I wouldn't disk with the plow. You will tear it up better at an angle or 90 degrees off.
 
A lot depends on the area of the country and the crops that you are raising. We only moldboard plow down sod in the rotation, when disking sod, I always go straight in the same direction as the plow, it turns up fewer sod chunks.
 
We. Haven't plowed since 81. But never disk or finish tool the way we plant. And never twice the same way. Trying to keep ground level. Only reason we work ground is if made ruts combineing.
 
That's a new one, figure 8? I always make my first pass with the furrows and then a 2nd at about 45 degrees.

Rick
 
A planter will roll smoother if the final tillage pass is made the way the planter runs. Tillage tool makes valleys under the surface. I run the field cultivator at a 30 degree pass the first time to level the field. Smoother ride than at 45 degrees.
 
When I plowed I filled in dead furrows as I plowed. Semi-mount plow, drop the front to turn the dirt in, leave the rear just above the plowed surface, make one round per deadfurrow.
 
I have never worked a figure 8 but, I have seen it done. It works the same as the way we used to do it. Our fields were long and narrow. We zig-zagged across the length of the field at about 45 degree angles. Then when you come back along were you just worked and get to the edge of the field, you cross what you already worked and keep going next to what has been worked. Each time you get to the edge of the field you cross what's already worked and go along side what's worked. This is almost impossible to explain without a diagram. It's hard enough to teach someone to do it correctly when he is riding with you. The way it ends up is, when the whole field has been worked, it has been worked two times and believe it or not, it takes less time than if you work it one way and then rework it another way. If you are now baffled, don't feel bad. I just read what I wrote and I'm baffled and I worked many fields that way.
 

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