- Thread starter Fatjay
- Start date
GeneMO
Well-known Member
- Location
- Pilot Grove, Mo.
I sure wouldn't get under that thing without blocking it up. Drive a flat bed wagon, or something under that bucket before crawling under to repair.
Gene
Gene
I let the loader down to rest on the dirt and lowered the blade on the back, off to the hardware store to get some bolts and nylon nuts. The guy before me put them on without lock washers, this is the second time it's happened, as there's two sets of bolts holding it together. The set I put on is holding nicely, so time to do it again.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Watching this video is the best reason why not to have a bolt on loader on an old
tractor. He could only put a wheelbarrow full of dirt in bucket. He had to ram the pile
of dirt many times, not to mention shift gears.
My backhoe is hydrostatic. Don't have to ram anything, just slowly move forward while
lifting bucket and I get a full bucket. No slipping the clutch, no shifting gears.
tractor. He could only put a wheelbarrow full of dirt in bucket. He had to ram the pile
of dirt many times, not to mention shift gears.
My backhoe is hydrostatic. Don't have to ram anything, just slowly move forward while
lifting bucket and I get a full bucket. No slipping the clutch, no shifting gears.
That's as nerve wracking as watching an armature chainsaw juggler. Doesn't the bucket roll back so the load can be carried low?
A few years back,I had just dumped a bucket of silage in the mixer with the 1020 Deere and started backing up. I hadn't lowered the loader yet but was just getting ready to. The two big bolts that hold the two axle halves together on the right side broke. I don't know yet how it tipped back down instead of going all the way over on its side. I was so close to the ground so fast,that I stuck my right foot out to stop my fall just out of instinct. If that bucket had been full,I know darned well it would have gone over.
A few years back,I had just dumped a bucket of silage in the mixer with the 1020 Deere and started backing up. I hadn't lowered the loader yet but was just getting ready to. The two big bolts that hold the two axle halves together on the right side broke. I don't know yet how it tipped back down instead of going all the way over on its side. I was so close to the ground so fast,that I stuck my right foot out to stop my fall just out of instinct. If that bucket had been full,I know darned well it would have gone over.
Unfortunately, I don't have the money for that kind of machine, and if I did, my wife would spend it elsewhere on one of the many projects that need done. 1k was my budget to get a machine that can move and grade dirt, my other option was leaving my back yard a horrific mess. It's old, but it runs well enough to get the job done.
The dirt is high, but it's rather far forward as well, which keeps the risk for flipping backward relatively low, and the machine's flipped tires give it a 7' wide stance. I am on level ground so side roll is relatively low risk as well. It's due to the misplaced mount on the loader bucket, or the dump cylinder was replaced with one to long at one point. I'm working on finding a weld shop to put another pivot point for the front cylinder so it can curl back further, right now it's strait forward at best.
I started with just shy of 90 yards of dirt, and it's gotten all but that last bit moved at this point.
The initial point of the video was to try and figure out why the hydraulics slow down to nearly a stop when it warms up, but didn't quite make it that far before it broke.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Keep your dirt down low. As a kid I flipped a pipe loader on a Farmall H. A lower
center of gravity is much safer.
Save your money and get a backhoe.
What you have s better than a shovel.
I'm grateful I never had a woman tell me what to spend my money on.
Monday, I just bought my second hoe so I don't have to trailer mine from one property
to another about 25 miles away.
center of gravity is much safer.
Save your money and get a backhoe.
What you have s better than a shovel.
I'm grateful I never had a woman tell me what to spend my money on.
Monday, I just bought my second hoe so I don't have to trailer mine from one property
to another about 25 miles away.
That's painful to watch, ( the pump noise LOL !) is the reservoir low or is the return line pinched or kinked ?
From observation, one may think you don't know how to load a bucket properly. Now hold that thought.
1.) I don't see a bucket cylinder at first, but there is a single one. If it was a trip bucket, I could see going into the pile any which way, finding the least compacted, "loose'est" material, to get something in the bucket to move, essentially working with what you have to get the job done. Not sure if that has down pressure or 2 way cylinders. I would imagine you would know that going into a pile at the base of it with the bucket low and flat to the ground, then raising and curling the bucket as you do this, (fun with an old tractor no P/S I know LOL!) will get more material loaded in one pass. You kind of wriggle your way up the bank of the pile and collect material as you raise the bucket. A hard pile is more difficult, best to push off loose material to load if you can. My old tractor and loader is worthless for a hard bank or pile of material.
2.) If you have down pressure, uncurl the bucket, raise it up over the pile, drive up to and onto the pile if needed, then use the bucket while driving in reverse to pull down and spread the fill loosely in front the pile to load it easier. When you have enough, line up the bucket, tilt down just a hair from flat or leave flat, then drive into what you just pulled down and you'll have a heaped bucket, that fills as you drive up to the remaining pile which when pushing against at that point will help load material as it retains in place. However, that's not the best for a tractor like one of these, so tilt as much material off at the pile or loading area as you need to make the weight a little less and not spill and waste material. You will still move more material with less trips. I can feel the weight of dirt on my old loader, best to not get greedy given the weight and the kind of tractor it is. I have broken a spindle on a downhill slope before, loader bucket was low to the ground though, but I am sure it was from heavy lifting over years. When on pavement, if the front wheel looks to be leaning, it could be a failing or cracked spindle, mine was cracked for awhile before it broke, part of the break was rusty and it did have a tilt or lean to it.
3.) Once at the dump area, you can line up to the fill area and tilt the bucket forward spread the material if you like, as you dump it off. I do tilt my bucket down and use it like that for loose material so I can see how much is spilling off until the pass is finished, just like I would a dozer blade, no more material falling, time to reverse and make another pass or in your case get another bucket load. My old 850 ford with a wagner loader, as is with the repairs needed, has to be the worst to operate for work like this, but I was able to spread 20 yds of gravel and 25 tons of crusher run this spring, I never loaded the bucket once as the material was close enough to just pull or push. Sure the bucket cylinders will be extended and if you hit something hard, it could bend a cylinder rod, but spreading loose material its no issue.
4.) Operating a tractor with a loader bucket at that height, loaded or not, is unsafe and increases the risk of roll over dramatically. If you break a spindle, something gives way under foot, or you just run a back tire over a small windrow or pile, it could easily go over.
Its great to make the best use of what you have to get the work done as best you can but you had best deal with that pump noise, and you may want to re-think your operating habits, consider a roll over protection structure and a seat with a seat belt. I thought there was a government rebate for farmers that want to install these to be safe, may not cost you much, need more head room when parked or in the garage, get a fold down type.
My front pump will only whine if the fluid is low, the return line kinked or its in the 20's or below, til it warms up, something is wrong there, it should not make noise like that. The shaft connection is one thing, you won't have much of a pump left by now if its been starved for fluid.
From observation, one may think you don't know how to load a bucket properly. Now hold that thought.
1.) I don't see a bucket cylinder at first, but there is a single one. If it was a trip bucket, I could see going into the pile any which way, finding the least compacted, "loose'est" material, to get something in the bucket to move, essentially working with what you have to get the job done. Not sure if that has down pressure or 2 way cylinders. I would imagine you would know that going into a pile at the base of it with the bucket low and flat to the ground, then raising and curling the bucket as you do this, (fun with an old tractor no P/S I know LOL!) will get more material loaded in one pass. You kind of wriggle your way up the bank of the pile and collect material as you raise the bucket. A hard pile is more difficult, best to push off loose material to load if you can. My old tractor and loader is worthless for a hard bank or pile of material.
2.) If you have down pressure, uncurl the bucket, raise it up over the pile, drive up to and onto the pile if needed, then use the bucket while driving in reverse to pull down and spread the fill loosely in front the pile to load it easier. When you have enough, line up the bucket, tilt down just a hair from flat or leave flat, then drive into what you just pulled down and you'll have a heaped bucket, that fills as you drive up to the remaining pile which when pushing against at that point will help load material as it retains in place. However, that's not the best for a tractor like one of these, so tilt as much material off at the pile or loading area as you need to make the weight a little less and not spill and waste material. You will still move more material with less trips. I can feel the weight of dirt on my old loader, best to not get greedy given the weight and the kind of tractor it is. I have broken a spindle on a downhill slope before, loader bucket was low to the ground though, but I am sure it was from heavy lifting over years. When on pavement, if the front wheel looks to be leaning, it could be a failing or cracked spindle, mine was cracked for awhile before it broke, part of the break was rusty and it did have a tilt or lean to it.
3.) Once at the dump area, you can line up to the fill area and tilt the bucket forward spread the material if you like, as you dump it off. I do tilt my bucket down and use it like that for loose material so I can see how much is spilling off until the pass is finished, just like I would a dozer blade, no more material falling, time to reverse and make another pass or in your case get another bucket load. My old 850 ford with a wagner loader, as is with the repairs needed, has to be the worst to operate for work like this, but I was able to spread 20 yds of gravel and 25 tons of crusher run this spring, I never loaded the bucket once as the material was close enough to just pull or push. Sure the bucket cylinders will be extended and if you hit something hard, it could bend a cylinder rod, but spreading loose material its no issue.
4.) Operating a tractor with a loader bucket at that height, loaded or not, is unsafe and increases the risk of roll over dramatically. If you break a spindle, something gives way under foot, or you just run a back tire over a small windrow or pile, it could easily go over.
Its great to make the best use of what you have to get the work done as best you can but you had best deal with that pump noise, and you may want to re-think your operating habits, consider a roll over protection structure and a seat with a seat belt. I thought there was a government rebate for farmers that want to install these to be safe, may not cost you much, need more head room when parked or in the garage, get a fold down type.
My front pump will only whine if the fluid is low, the return line kinked or its in the 20's or below, til it warms up, something is wrong there, it should not make noise like that. The shaft connection is one thing, you won't have much of a pump left by now if its been starved for fluid.
Around here a lot of folks move round bales with a skid loader that way - lift the bale way up high to see under the bale.... Sure makes a top
heavy rig, and easy to tip.
I sure understand getting by with what one has.
Is there a way to make the loader bucket curl back more, shorter ram or something, so you don't need to lift the load so high? It just seems
there is something not right there, you should be able to scoop into the dirt and curl the bucket back to get a load in the back of the bucket, not
need to lift it so high.
Aside from the risk of rolling over, it would save a whole lot of wear and tear on the reactor and hydraulics, not needing to strain to lift so high.
And you could make less trips. Typically a bucket can curl more weight than the arms can lift, so you end up with more dirt closer to the back of
the bucket, lifted less high.
Safer, easier, cheaper, less time....
It may be worth looking into that, even on an extreme budget. A different length bucket cylinder might make things just so much better, if it can
curl back more but still dump out.
I took a gravity wagon load of corn to the elevator last fall the bolt in the wagon tongue - wagon side of the hitch - broke, that was real exciting
stopping and I was nearly stopped to beignet with making a turn, the different ways that could have gone wrong.... This stuff happens, don't
take the negative comments too hard, most of those commenting have done as bad or worse themselves, I know I have. Kinda like a reformed
drinker or smoker can get a little preachy, I think we can get preachy on this stuff if we live through enough issues ourselves.
. Thanks for
posting.
Paul
heavy rig, and easy to tip.
I sure understand getting by with what one has.
Is there a way to make the loader bucket curl back more, shorter ram or something, so you don't need to lift the load so high? It just seems
there is something not right there, you should be able to scoop into the dirt and curl the bucket back to get a load in the back of the bucket, not
need to lift it so high.
Aside from the risk of rolling over, it would save a whole lot of wear and tear on the reactor and hydraulics, not needing to strain to lift so high.
And you could make less trips. Typically a bucket can curl more weight than the arms can lift, so you end up with more dirt closer to the back of
the bucket, lifted less high.
Safer, easier, cheaper, less time....
It may be worth looking into that, even on an extreme budget. A different length bucket cylinder might make things just so much better, if it can
curl back more but still dump out.
I took a gravity wagon load of corn to the elevator last fall the bolt in the wagon tongue - wagon side of the hitch - broke, that was real exciting
stopping and I was nearly stopped to beignet with making a turn, the different ways that could have gone wrong.... This stuff happens, don't
take the negative comments too hard, most of those commenting have done as bad or worse themselves, I know I have. Kinda like a reformed
drinker or smoker can get a little preachy, I think we can get preachy on this stuff if we live through enough issues ourselves.
. Thanks for posting.
Paul
Buckets max curl is strait on, thus the need to go higher than I prefer. I am going to get a shop to weld another point on the bucket to attach the dump piston to so it curls better.
As for the whine I just replaced the suction hose so it's not drawing air any longer, but I think the filter is clogged right before the pump. Going to take it apart soon and hopefully cleaning it will give it better flow.
As for the whine I just replaced the suction hose so it's not drawing air any longer, but I think the filter is clogged right before the pump. Going to take it apart soon and hopefully cleaning it will give it better flow.
J. Schwiebert
Well-known Member
A true filter before the pump is apum killer. You better home it is a wire mesh strainer. Your filter should be on the return side before it dumps into the tank!
Beside getting the bucket tilt changed, get new bucket edge. Don"t try ramming the pile above ground level...bucket should be level, on the ground, then go forward, raising the bucket when full. Even with what you have, you can get a pretty decent load and carry it without raising the loader that high.
NoNewParts
Member
I've used loaders like that. Changing the pivot point will help the curl, but are you sure that is the right curl cylinder?
It looks too long.
One of my loaders is an old trip bucket with no down pressure.
Driving in and getting a scoop...back up, lift it a foot or so off the ground...drive away....what falls out..falls out. Ya just can't drive around with it way up there.
Don't believe? lift it up there, get off, reach up and grab a corner of the bucket and give it a pull. careful....see that opposite rear coming off the ground...it'll go that easy.
Depending on where you work....or a school....get a forklift license.
The training you get for a forklift will make you a much better loader operator.
It looks too long.
One of my loaders is an old trip bucket with no down pressure.
Driving in and getting a scoop...back up, lift it a foot or so off the ground...drive away....what falls out..falls out. Ya just can't drive around with it way up there.
Don't believe? lift it up there, get off, reach up and grab a corner of the bucket and give it a pull. careful....see that opposite rear coming off the ground...it'll go that easy.
Depending on where you work....or a school....get a forklift license.
The training you get for a forklift will make you a much better loader operator.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
So many things wrong in that video that I don't know where to start.
I'm glad that it's not my Fergie being abused like that.
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