This Is Gonna Hurt!

Allan in NE

Well-known Member
Hauled the baler 30 miles to the dealer. Too big of a job for me.

Allan


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It's not a dent.

Bearing on the left side locked up and the drive shaft thru the middle twisted the roll like a pretzel before the clutch slipped. New roll lists for $1175, so I'm hoping that they can find a used one. :>(

Allan
 
Which dealer did you take it to? Last weekend we went to Torrington, and was surprised to see just how little hay is put up.
 
Butler Ag in Chadron; formerly Henkens. Luckily, I've only got a few windrows down and I can get that with my little chain baler, but still have 100 acres to cut yet.

Rained just at the right time here. :>)

Allan
 
That's to bad! I guess me not even starting hay yet with so much rain is ok, at least my equipment is all sitting so nothing is breaking? Lol ;) but then again I don't want to run out of last years hay either!
 
This is a long shot, but can you hit it with air or water pressure (ie are the sides solid) and force it back out?
I can't tell from the pictures if the roll is solid, well just and inquiring mind.
 
Wow that is a serious twist. Drive line shop may be able to do something with it when it is out of the machine.

Greg
 
Leave the roller intact. Drill about a half inch hole, put in just the right amount of black powder, put in a fuse, light it and the force will blow the roller out smooth.

If that dont work, put in about 50 lbs of black powder, light the fuse, then drive off reall fast.

Those are my only options.

sorry this had to happen to you. Been there.

Gene
 
Allan, call Fry Equipment in Pa. 570-546-3968 They can be hard to get sometimes, but worth it. They may have a new one that they make for about half the price from CNH. They sent me a feed roll for a chopper and it was 1/3 of one from CNH, and fit like a glove. If they don't have a new one, they'll likely have a used one.
 
That raises the question: "How do you test a slip clutch to determine that it will slip when it needs to?" Does the factory have a pre-determined setting, or does someone just assemble the clutch and let someone else worry about it?

A clutch that has not slipped on occasion has a much higher "break away" force than a clutch that has slipped on occasion. If the clutch has friction plates, they can weld themselves together over time and become a solid connection. Metal-to-metal can rust and raise the break away point.

I doubt that many people ever deliberately test the slip clutches to see if they are working properly. It might be appropriate to back off the spring load until the clutch slipped to smooth the surfaces and then tighten the spring load to what seems like an appropriate amount to hold, yet slip when necessary.
 
My FIL would have replaced the bearing and run it like it is after beating some of the high points down with a hammer.
 
You should see some of the crap he pulled with his equipment - only person I've ever seen that would go through the effort of rebuilding a head and then reuse the head gasket when he put it togather. I remember helping him start an old AC 7060 one morning. I pulled the dip stick and it was at least 2 quarts low.

"Use that jug over there to fill it"

I started to pour and realised it was black as coal and stopped and told him he must have made a mistake.

"Naw, that oil came from the car, its still plenty good".

I asked him if he was sure and he got all *&ssed of at me and said:

"Why the #&ll would I waste good oil just to top it off?"

I talked to my wife about it later and she said she thought everyone did that. First you use the oil in your car or pickup then you use it in the tractor.....
 
I did just that this past fall.. slip clutches on my 273 sq. baler. Both on the drive and the pickup.. both appeared in good shape and loose but took them apart and set them according to the specs.. I hadn't touched them in 10 years. so..didn't have a problem either just thought time..
 

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