Drilling out Ex Stud Cont

This is continued from before...still can't get that broken stud out. I drilled, later the hole came out cricked, and even broke a backout bit trying to back it out. It wouldn't spin and eventually the backout bit snapped. Not sure how far to drill into the stud. I don't want it braking into the block.

Any more suggestions? This was my first stud of 4. I heated it up and mistook twisting for backing out. Lesson learned. The other 3 came out ok with heat...

Help much appreciated...

The first smaller backout bit broke in the drilled pilot hole, and when I started drilling again with a bigger bit on top of the backout bit piece, the hole went crooked.

If you have a die grinder you can enlarge your hole using a carbide burr. Even if there's still a piece of broken drill bit in the hole, the burr will chip it out.

I have had that same issue myself. What I have done is to take a good center punch and hammer and smack the heck out of the easy out. Sometimes you can break them up and they will come out in pieces. Get some small picks like o ring picks or the like and see if you can wiggle the pieces at all. It can be very slow and tedious. You will have to re-sharpen the punch many times. Just did that on a 1/2 bolt and easy out in cast iron. It was a pain. The next step is to pull the head and take it to a machine shop. Good Luck.

Dremal and grinding stones with 1/8" stem. Just set and grind and the bits will be gone. It might take a few stones.

(quoted from post at 15:46:20 05/31/15)
[b:bd527dfff8]The first smaller backout bit broke in the drilled pilot hole,[/b:bd527dfff8] [b:bd527dfff8]and when I started drilling again with a bigger bit on top of the backout bit piece, the hole went crooked[/b:bd527dfff8].

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hat why i [b:bd527dfff8]never[/b:bd527dfff8] use these things on a seized broke bolt or stud, they always break and no matter what people say they are not meant for that.

Your best bet now is to get a milling bit and drill that hole up to the next size bolt and install a coil or tap for the bigger bolt (your choice)( a milling bit does not wander if a guide is used but a drill bit does wander,.. guide or not
You will have to fashion a guide bushing/fixture of the exact size as the bit and clamp or bolt that down at an exact 90 degree angle to the head and dead center over the hole( you can use the exh studs both sides of the one you're working on)

Take a small punch and chip the broken bit out. Then try a left hand drill bit starting small about a 1/8". Heat and cool between sizes untill it comes out. Had good luck on a wisconson 4cyl a friend had broke several head bolt studs off with this method. If it is slightly off center your ok just watch the threads. If the wall gets too thin take a small chisel and peel the remainder out. The main thing is take your time don,t get fustrated.

You are fixing to find out you are in worse shape now than when you had a broken bolt.
A regular drill bit is not gona drill out a easy out.

In my book you have 2 choices short of taking the head to a machine shop.

Make a drill guide out of a flat piece of steel. Drill holes so you can bolt it to the head using the other exhaust bolt holes; and center a small 3/16 inch hole over the broken bolt.
Get a "Rescue Bit" (google the name) and use the drill guide to drill down the center of the easy out.
Once you have it drilled you can remove the guide and use the rescue bit to chip out more if needed.
This still leaves you with the broken off bolt in the hole so you still have the tedious work of getting it out.

If you have access to a welder you can get a special rod called "Stud Pull" by Duratrode. It has a special flux on the rod that allows the weld to stick to the broken off bolt but not the head.
So I do not have to type out all the details follow the link to a post about it a few months ago.
Removeing a broken bolt

For a chisel to use on the drilled stud,grind a bevel on a round punch.

Go to mscdirect.com and get a 3/16 ball end mill and it will go right through that ez out and you can get the hole back on center. They
are carbide but do not have the sharp points like a regular cabide end mill so it will not chip out as easy and they cut on the center
like a drill. Did it alot on the wd 45 and 400 farmall when tring to get out the manifold bolts. Just put it in your cordless drill and
go to it.They are awsome

Broken drill bits, easyouts and broken taps down in a hole will move when trying to drill out will catch and break any mill cutter or drill bit when they move.

This is a my 2 cents worth but,

I got a broken off-center easy out and the bolt by drilling a series of small holes around the easy out. It released the easyout and the bolt was drilled up enough it came
out also.

From your picture I can't tell if it would work or not. I was working in chassis on a Dodge 440 exhaust manifold mounting bolt through the fender well.

RT

What is a back out bit? Is it another term for a left handed drill bit?

(quoted from post at 17:46:07 05/31/15) Broken drill bits, easyouts and broken taps down in a hole will move when trying to drill out will catch and break any mill cutter or drill bit when they move.

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i think he had the broke easyout out already.

The 2nd bit went crooked because it could not cut the material that the "backout bit" is made of.

As another poster mentioned, you are now in need of some _Carbide_ burrs. They like to turn fast and will work great in a die
grinder. You just need two 1/4 shank bits: a ball end and a cylinder.
Start with ball end shape to work on the broken bit pieces and to get you back on center. Then go back to drilling your pilot
hole. Use a piece of stiff wire and your thumbnail to determine the depth of a hole you have already cleared. Use that number as
your guide for how deep to drill.

With the pilot hole drilled you can open up the hole with a second bit. If you were perfectly on center then you could use a
drill bit the same size as the root diameter of the bolt thread. If off a little then go a little smaller but you need enough to
get the cylindrical burr in there.

Take the cylindrical burr and start removing the material from the side of the hole and stop once you begin to see a thread
pattern. You can then take a sharp pick and start digging out the threads of the bolt from the threads in the hole. Sometimes
you can take the thread end and twist it with needle nose pliers and the old thread will unwind.

Be aware that when the burr is cutting it will throw tiny shrarp slivers all over the place! A face shield makes great
protection.

I used these techniques last week while salvaging a front bolster from a Farmall 350. Five of the Eight bolts for the frame
rails were snapped off flush with the casting.

I've worked in welding/fabricating for 40 years and have yet to see anything that will touch hardened tool steel like an easy-out outside of a proper grinding stone. Not even a carbide burr. Maybe I'm missing something? I vote for beating it till it breaks into little pieces, followed by the idea of drilling as big a hole as you can in the broken stud and peeling out what's left. But make sure you get all of it (the easy-out) out or you'll be lucky not to break the drill bit in the hole.

If you mess it up, hopefully you could always use a heli-coil.

You have a good point and are correct that the carbide will be a waste of time if an extractor of some kind is broken off in
there. In that case I agree that the best plan would be to keep shattering off pieces of the ease-out until it's gone and then
proceed with burrs and drills.

I believe what he is using is kind of a hybrid that looks kinda sorta like a left hand center drill. I have a set of those and
really they're intended more for screws rather than bolts etc. In any case they are made of good material but not as hard as an
extractor or carbide.

Bolt the manifold back on then trade it off on new equipment LOL

40 years is a long time and I have been in a position of cleaning up other peoples messes of broken bolt, easyouts, and drill bits since 1960. It all depends on the broken tools position and condition. Some times they can be broken out without more damage. Each case may take a different approach. I would load up smaller parts years ago and take them to an EDM machine and have them burned out. After starting my own tool building shop in 1977 I soon found that what my Dad had told me on several occasions, that I could have cultivated a lot of corn in the time I took driving on the road to the house several times a day.
I can use a die grinder and even if it is slow going I could grind the center out of a broken tap in less time it would take to drive to a machine shop that had an EDM and then wait until they could get someone to burn it out and drive back. All the time a grinding stone is on the broken hard piece it is getting smaller and not damaging the hole beyond repair. It takes a few years of actually doing something to figure out that some jobs there is no magic quick way to remedy a problem.

I agree. I'd say it's going to be one of those jobs where the only way to move ahead is to just back up, slow down, and admit there's no way out without a lot of tedious work - and just do it.

Grind it. slowly and accurately with a die grinder or dremel tool.

You usually find it takes less time to do it than it does to try to figure out a better alternative.

Try your best to keep the whole in good enough shape to re-tap.

You can always go heli-coil if need be, but consider that as a last resort while you work.

I wonder why people ask advise on how to and then after sound advice is given discard all the good suggestions and proceed to use the worst solution of all ,...an easy out :roll:

Sucess! That thing fell into the hole and was able to use a magnet to pull it up and a needle nose to pull it out. It fell in when I drilled all the way thru it, which I was hoping so it woul be smaller than the hole to pull it out.

Thanks for all your help everyone!