When people paint a tractor do they just steam-jeeny clean the tractor before painting or what steps are taken? just talking about fresh paint job, not a show quality job,and how do they mask things like a starter exhaust manifold etc...just wondering how it done cause I know it would be impossible to sand every nook and cranny thanks for your replies....dale
- Thread starter big daddy
- Start date
Goose
Well-known Member
Depends on how professional you want it to look.
Some guys run them through a carwash and squirt some paint at them, others do it right and pull the starter, alternator, manifolds, carb, wiring, wheels, etc, plus pull the sheet metal and do that separately, etc. And, yes, people do sand and prep every "nook and cranny".
Why do I suspect you're trying to justify doing a half-arsed job?
Some guys run them through a carwash and squirt some paint at them, others do it right and pull the starter, alternator, manifolds, carb, wiring, wheels, etc, plus pull the sheet metal and do that separately, etc. And, yes, people do sand and prep every "nook and cranny".
Why do I suspect you're trying to justify doing a half-arsed job?
Usually it always takes me a good five times power washing and soaking in degreaser to get it clean as I want it, I usually scrape the hard grease off after first wash and get what I can, as for sanding, I sandblast then after that if I miss spots I either take my little sandblasted and touch up or sand, and mask everything off that should be, alternator, belts, hoses etc etc to make look nice, don't get in a rush just take your time, it's not worth trying to get it clean first time and get it all sanded quick or sandblast and miss a lot of spots.
Rollie NE PA
Well-known Member
I take all the nooks and crannies off. I wiire wheel everything.
Unless the tractor is COMPLETELY disassembled and rebuilt "as new", after the parts are thoroughly dried or cleaned of sand what do you suppose the after effects of sandblasting, or extended steam cleaning are, down the road?
In other words, you can put lipstick on a pig, but it's not necessarily a good idea!
WIKI weighs in on the subject
In other words, you can put lipstick on a pig, but it's not necessarily a good idea!
WIKI weighs in on the subject
NO Goose I am certainly not trying to do that.IN fact...Sir... my son and I where just discussing what possible levels of painting procedures exsisted out there, the reason being a was looking at buying a tractor at jd dealer that mechnicaly seemed very sound but needed a paint-job so I was trying to find out info on it, so I would not wind up with a half-assed job that you Sir was impling that was going to do Thank you very-much Sir...... YOU CERTAINLY DO NOT KNOW ME Sir....how-ever I do as a Gentle-man want to thank you for reply on the subject-matter, PERHAPS we can move forward from here...thanks dale
"I see no issue with steam cleaning, and none with sandblasting, as long as parts are cleaned thoroughly afterwards. "
I AGREE 100%, DavidG!
The point I was making is that doing such things to a tractor that will NOT be taken down to component parts and then thoroughly cleaning them up before reassembly is simply making it look better COSMETICALLY while hurting it mechanically.
Of course, it is financially more practical to omit the diassembly and cleaning and rebuilding parts of a "restoration" than to skip the "slap some paint on it" part!
I AGREE 100%, DavidG!
The point I was making is that doing such things to a tractor that will NOT be taken down to component parts and then thoroughly cleaning them up before reassembly is simply making it look better COSMETICALLY while hurting it mechanically.
Of course, it is financially more practical to omit the diassembly and cleaning and rebuilding parts of a "restoration" than to skip the "slap some paint on it" part!
Jim in Ma.
Well-known Member
A lot depends on what you are looking for. Remember that paint is a thin film. the finished product will reflect the amount of time and effort you put into the job. Did you fix any oil leaks?
You can do it on the cheap but it's like pay me now or pay me later. You have to decide that.
I remember years ago the dealers did that to sell a used machine. = Steam clean, put a paper bag over the mag or dist. and paint them. They looked ok from a distance.
You can do it on the cheap but it's like pay me now or pay me later. You have to decide that.
I remember years ago the dealers did that to sell a used machine. = Steam clean, put a paper bag over the mag or dist. and paint them. They looked ok from a distance.
Paul from MI
Well-known Member
First off, I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL RESTORER. But I have painted my own, and showed at EXPO, so here goes. I try to disassemble as much as practical. No use tearing down engines that are running fine. I use a pressure washer several times to start, then start scraping and wire brushing to get all dirt/grease off. Any potentially loose paint has to be removed. Dirt lodged in corners, recesses, etc. has to be scraped away. I am not a fan of sandblasting any part that hasn't been removed--too easy to get sand into internal parts. Then follow with a thorough degreasing before priming. You can go as far as you want with sheetmetal, that's your choice, but this is how I do it. Paint won't adhere to dirty surfaces, so cleaning is the secret.
Many years ago I got stuck painting tractors at the dealership. We used a steam cleaner running a caustic powdered solution along with the steam. It was tough breathing the fumes but I survived. Hoods off first of all, steam and steam some more. Shut it down, scrape and scrub all the spots you missed or could not get clean. Steam clean again. Knock off any loose or bad looking pain on chassis. Sand the hoods and gas tanks etc. Mask off steering wheel, sediment bowl, lights, all serial number plates and model number plates on generator, starter etc, pull off dist cap and wires and mask exposed end of distributor, cover spark plugs. Prime & paint every thing else including carburetor, starter etc. as is done at factory. Oh yeah, keep paint off rims and brush painted them later along with muffler. First ones, not so good, later on they looked pretty good for several years. I am not a pro painter by any stretch of the imagination. The more I read up the more I realize I don't know about painting.
ditchwitch
Well-known Member
I guess it all depends on how good you want it look. And just FYI you can also Soda Blast it does a great job also.
tomstractorsandtoys
Well-known Member
I like to pressure wash then use a wire brush on a grinder to remove any loose paint then rewash. Sheet metal is sanded and primed. I also prefer to prime the rear wheels on Deere tractors as John Deere yellow does not seem to cover very well or if on a budget I paint the yellow with Rustolium Deere yellow then use a top coat of Deere yellow. When painting a Deere I paint the yellow first then use a spray can to paint the dash,started and metal around the lights then wait a day or two and tape up yellow and black before painting green. When painting do often end up with a few runs and I see every flaw as I am painting but when finished rarely do any stand out. I paint work tractors and not show tractors.I have also done a few quickie paint jobs where a good wash job and very little else was done and have had good results as well.Sometimes you do not have the time,money,resources or skills to do a perfect job so an ok job to me is better than nothing at all and you can always redo it a few years from now. Last spring our one 3020 was in the shop for a clutch and my son talked me into a less than perfect paint job but it is a 100% improvement over what it was. Tom
Doug Cotton
Member
I will steam clean and wire wheel chassis. I will not sand blast a chassis due to having leaks where you didn't before. I do sand blast sheet metal and wheels though. Here is as far down as I take one.
RandyB(MI)
Well-known Member
IMHO "Big" , I would do the steam clean thing first no matter what level you go with with paint/body. It may even help you decide what level you want. Once you get it as clean as you can with steam, let it dry and buy a gallon of enamel reducer (cheapest you can find) and use a spray bottle and really wet down all but the sheet metal. While still wet , steam clean it again. At this point the cast and all but sheet metal will take paint and stick without sanding. It's best to use a two component epoxy primer first for adhesion insurance. Sheet metal is a whole nuther story. Here's where your chosen priorities will call the shots. It will also either make or break the finished job. If I were you , I would take the sheet metal to a local (reputable) body shop and have them walk you through from start to finish, the steps to do it right,and write them down. I did body/paint on autos for over 35 yrs and you can't get it out of a book. Type of paint is only important for longevity. Quality and patience in the prep is what will make or break the whole job. Practice your painting on the cast and small parts first. Good luck and post pics when done.
It takes a lot of hours steam cleaning and scraping and sanding and then more cleaning it takes four or five days to get one ready to paint and you better do it right or it just won't look very good cleaning and prepping is the most important thing and also the hardest and most boring part of painting just think you have it looking good and then realize you have to go over it ten more times .
showcrop
Well-known Member
You can take into consideration how they were painted at the factory. There is a little variation from one brand to another, but for the most part, they went into the paint room without sheet metal, wheels, elec wiring, (but they did have starter and genny on) carb, gas tank, radiator and shroud, seat, lights and carb/governor linkages. Sheet metal, and wheels were painted separately, then assembled onto chassis. If you were do do similarly you will not be doing a lot of disassembly, but you will be able to get at most nooks to be able to clean fairly well. You will still be far from a restoration or show quality job.
huntingreen2day2
Member
Dollar General oven cleaner and a high pressure washer can do a lot.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Be careful when using a high pressure washer. It can damage valve cover gasket, head gasket. If not careful, you can also get water in every place that you have oil. Been there, done that.
Now, when I clean my tractors, I use concentrated soap, apply with a stiff brush, rinse off with garden hose, no excessive pressure, be careful not to get water in certain places like gear shifter, lift arms.
I took my tractors apart before painting. Those parts, apply soap with brush and go ahead and pressure wash. The rusty parts of tractor I used wire brush before soap and water.
Now, when I clean my tractors, I use concentrated soap, apply with a stiff brush, rinse off with garden hose, no excessive pressure, be careful not to get water in certain places like gear shifter, lift arms.
I took my tractors apart before painting. Those parts, apply soap with brush and go ahead and pressure wash. The rusty parts of tractor I used wire brush before soap and water.
Blackhole49
Well-known Member
- Location
- White Lake MI
Just haul it to Bryce and let him do it for $300 to $400.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I buy oven cleaner at the Dollar store and after I scrape the worst of the caked on grease off (followed by power wash to get it and all of the dirt off) I cover it with the oven cleaner. Let it sit for a while and steam wash it. I repeat the oven cleaner process until it looks clean. I then use a paintbrush to apply aircraft paint remover (use full face respirator) and steam wash it off. If anything sticks after that hit it with wire brush. I have not had problem with water getting where it's not supposed to be. I am careful around the gaskets, and other sensitive places. I also change the fluids when I'm done painting just in case.
Rich'sToys
Well-known Member
- Location
- Southern MN
That's the key! Don't represent it as something it's not.
These threads crack me up! Anyone who had seen any old assembly line pictures knows that even most of the so called "half-arsed" paint jobs are way better than anything the factory ever put on.
The bottom line is--it's YOUR tractor--do whatever makes YOU happy! If you want to spend twice what the tractor is worth and get it so nice that you're afraid to drive it, then go for it! If you're content with something that looks good from 20 ft., then do that! There is no right or wrong here.
One thing is for certain--no matter what you do, you can be assured that the next owner will find something wrong with it! Then you can come on here and read threads about what a moron the PO was!
can look tonight. I think I still have a can on the shelf. I believe the brand is Bull dog or something like that. I used it on the engine compartment of my 56 Cadillac when I had the motor out. Didn't want to spend all day sanding and scuffing around all the little bolts,screws and wiring holders. Took about 15 minutes for two coats and then sprayed the paint on.
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