ford truck brakes

got a 2001, ford f250 4x4. right front brake is dragging badly. causing a pull to right, and a shimmy. looking at brake line n caliper. any other issues i need to know?

It is most likely the flexible line to the caliper. I had the same problem on my 02 F250 a while back.

I'll second that.

im gonna replace the line. i found the resivior was way overfilled. it has the screw on cap, doesnt look to be vented. works fine till bout 20miles into trips. if its too full, would the hot fluid expand n act like the same issue as collapsed brake line?

The line issue is when the hold down over the rubber hose rusts and slowly crimps the the hose causing it to act like a check valve.You apply pressure to the caliper,but crimped area of the hose restricts the return of fluid when you release the brake.If it is not pulling or acting up til you drive 20 minutes, I would lean towards the caliper.I doubt the reservoir being overfull would cause a problem: it would just leak around the cap. Also=MAKE SURE the floater pins are free on the caliper.Mark

If it has Kelsey Hayes antilock unit, the front right proportioning valve in the mechanical part of the unit is hanging up Analysis is to blead the right front caliper. It will drive fine till the brakes are applied, then the caliper will drag again. New replacement is more then 1500. Used good is about 300. Other things can be involved but I found this to be a known issue. Jim

We have a 2000. The caliper seized once and I had to pry it open so I could move the truck to where it was going (don't use it much right now - it was a fixer-upper freebe). From that I discovered (google) that there is a problem with the phenolic resin pistons that Ford uses. I forget the details.

You amaze me.

(quoted from post at 16:24:22 03/03/15) It is most likely the flexible line to the caliper. I had the same problem on my 02 F250 a while back.

Click to expand...

Common problem. Replace them both at the same time

I second that. I have had more problems with sticking pistons and binding floater pins than anything else.

Need to do some diagnostics... Since it is heat related, the problem is likely brake fluid expanding and not able to return to the reservoir.

Gather the tools needed to open the bleeder screws and to crack the lines at the master cylinder.

Drive it until the problem occurs.

Crack the lines at the master cylinder, see if the pressure relieves. If it does, the problem is in the master cylinder. It could also be in the booster or linkage, not allowing the cylinder to fully return.

If the pressure does not relieve at the master cylinder, go to the suspected wheel, open the bleeder screw, see if the pressure relieves. If so the problem is the flex hose to that wheel or axle.

If no pressure is found, and the brake is still binding, the piston(s) are stuck in the caliper.

One thing that worries me, the overfilled master cylinder. (BTW, the overfill will not cause pressure to build, it will overflow or blow the lid first.) But, how did it get overfilled? And what was it overfilled with? Is it possible oil could have been put in the master cylinder? One of the symptoms of oil contamination is heat related pressure build up, because the seals swell and the master cylinder can't return. If any rubber parts are swollen, there is oil in the system. Bad news! Very difficult to clean out, replacing components without cleaning it out will only be a waste of parts!

It could, but it wouldn't just pick on one wheel brake.

I have seen this happen also to a customer's truck. We got a used one for about $100.

I've seen calipers hang up,pistons in calipers stick(both phenolic and steel),bad flex lines and bad master cylinders.I haven't run into a bad proportional valve (yet).