Looking to buy an easy out set-what are the good ones?

Alan K · Mar 3, 2015

In the market for buying an easy out set. Have had some of the spiral ones as well as the 4 cornered set. They work ok if the bolt isn't stuck to hard. What do the rest of you use? Ive seen some Irwin brand sets that are a little different than the old style. Do they work well?

Mike M · Mar 3, 2015

I'd say your better off not owning any ! They just cause me more trouble. They should rename them "trouble makers" or "now your really stuck".

bison · Mar 3, 2015

(quoted from post at 12:24:52 03/03/15) I'd say your better off not owning any ! They just cause me more trouble. [b:d2b7420d27]They should rename them "trouble makers" or "now your really stuck".[/b:d2b7420d27]

in't that the truth.

They only work fine for extracting a hardly stuck or loose bolt.

glennster · Mar 3, 2015

i have extractor sets from snap on. they have left handed drill bits and the extractor. generally, if the bolt is going to come out, the left handed drill bit will back it out. if its rusted in there good, better off welding a washer and nut over the broken bolt and removing it that way.

KenL · Mar 3, 2015

I have the spiral, splined, square, left handed bits, the ones you drill in and there's a little wedge that you turn in and, a couple others. Depending on the situation, one will work better than the next but, the problem is, finding out which one will work better for that situation. By the time you figure out that the one you used isn't the right one, it's too late to use a different one. For the money that I've stuck into "easy outs" through the years, I think I would have been much better off using the money to get drunk. At least for a little while I would have been happy.

Dave H (MI) · Mar 3, 2015

I've had them. Never had one that worked. Always use some other method.

Mike(NEOhio) · Mar 3, 2015

They all work to a degree. The tricky part is drilling the screw especially if you're in cast iron. Grade 8 are very difficult. Heat, penetrant and lots of patience. I just bought a very small Irwin and it worked fine. Got one of two 10-24s out, had to drill out the second one.

old · Mar 3, 2015

The Irwin set works well but you pay for them also. I have had a set of them for 20 plus years and only broken one of them and it is one of the smallest ones in the set. Back when I got this set it cost me over $50 but been well worth every penny they cost

old · Mar 3, 2015

Sounds like you have never used a set of Irwin easy outs. That brand works real well but you also pay for them. The set I have cost me over $50 2o years ago and only one has broken and 99% of the time they removed the broken bolt

Alan K · Mar 3, 2015

Here is a picture of the Irwin ones I was talking about. I agree, if a bolt is rusted in tight, most of the time there is no magical tool to get them out.

Bob · Mar 3, 2015

Trouble is, what'r 'ya gonna use to remove the broken "easy out"? (PROBABLY the most mis-named tool ever made!)

Dell (WA) · Mar 3, 2015

Allen........eazy outs arn't. The NON-TAPER kind from Snap-on work best. What really works best is LEFT-HANDED drill bits. 2nd best is white vinegar and patience. 3rd is hammer'n'chisel. 4th is HEAT, arc-welder or acetylene. There are some "panzer-pizz" that semi-work, WD-40 don't. And remember 6-point sockets work better'n 12-points 'cuz 12-points just round the corners off. .......HTH, Dell

gab · Mar 3, 2015

I have Snap On, Mac,. plus another style spiral set and a few square ones. The main thing with any them is to take a deep breath and drill that hole in the center, don't get in a hurry or you're likely to screw it up. I like the Snap On set the best, like to drill through the bolt,squirt some magic juice in the hole and tap it with a punch and a hammer, might need a little heat, don't rush it.

black · Mar 3, 2015

Never had any luck with them always used heat or weld . But do have a Snap on 6 pnt sockect set older than the hills and never broke one yet .

Larry -- ONT.

Dieseltech · Mar 3, 2015

Google studpull by Duratrode. That's what I have the best results with.

G1355 · Mar 3, 2015

I have a set similar to this but are snap on and work good.

retired farmer · Mar 3, 2015

Those kind are worthless. I use the tapered square ones. Just have to be careful.

fixerupper · Mar 3, 2015

We do need easy outs collecting dust in a drawer somewhere. Once in a blue moon there is a need for one, like a threaded hydraulic fitting broken off in a casting for instance. I haven't used one for a long time but when the rare occasion comes where I feel an easy will work I'll blow the dust off.

60 acre hillside · Mar 3, 2015

I had good luck with some Vermont American brand. They also did not cost much. I also have a KD straight taper set. Every one you take out is a new experience

jimg.allentown · Mar 3, 2015

There is one MAJOR defect in the whole "easy out" design.
How to use it is the main problem. First, you drill a hole through the broken off piece. Then, in order to get a grip on the metal, you drive it into the piece you want to remove. This EXPANDS IT!!!! If it would have come out fairly easily, this eliminates that possibility.

As previously stated, left handed (or reverse twist if you prefer) drills work the best. Keep in mind that if the bolt/stud/screw broke off, it was because the rest of it was stuck fast in the hole. That means it is NOT coming out easy in any case. Heat helps, welder trick helps, and penetrating oil helps. Main objective is to get the broken piece to release from the thread it is stuck in.

My vote is to save your money for something more useful like a bucket of steam, egg peeler, or a left handed monkey wrench.

Frank 41 · Mar 3, 2015

I just came across Rennsteig extractors, made in Germany. These can be used cw or ccw. They are long with a large nut. They are on Amazon for $45.98 for a 5 piece set, .25 to .75 sizes. There are two larger ones for sale separately also, .875 and 1"+.

Paul from MI · Mar 3, 2015

I've been a tool&die maker for 40 years, and seen more broken bolts than most. There are NO GOOD EASY_OUTS. And once you've broken one off the only fix is an EDM machine. Careful drilling with a left hand drill is a much safer option.

phil_n · Mar 3, 2015

I got lucky with a torch once. As you all know to get a cutting torch to cut you have to pre-heat what you want to cut. Over time I noticed that rust makes a reasonable heat insulator - like pre-heating something attached to something else that is rusted, the heat has trouble passing through the rust to the other part. I had a broken stud in an exhaust manifold (I think it was the one that connects the pipe to the manifold) that I could not get a drill near and didn't want to take it off because I was too lazy to pull the manifold off. Because everything was so rusty I thought maybe, if I went carefully, I could pre-heat the stud without heating the manifold itself, then the cutting jet wouldn't cut into the manifold and just blow the stud out. Believe it or not it actually worked! Blew the stud right out of the hole and didn't touch the manifold. Cleaned it up with a tap and it was good to go.

phil_n

mtf · Mar 3, 2015

Dakota Sales makes a good set of left hand bits and tapered spiral ease outs. Picked up at NFMS twenty years ago. Made in USA.

vscummins · Mar 4, 2015

Lincoln or miller makes about the best easy out I've used

Looking to buy an easy out set-what are the good ones?

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