Problem with leaky shut-off valve 1936 JD B

SweetFeet

Well-known Member
Does anyone have a good “fix” to stop gas from leaking past the sediment bowl shut-off valve of a 1936 John Deere Unstyled B? It's also leaking past the 3-way valve.

Thanks if you can help out.
 
I could probably offer a suggestion if I could see a few pictures of the tractor first... :)

Not sure of anything to do other than to remove it (the little T handle the you turn), clean it well, put some pipe sealant on it, PTFE or something like that, and replace it. Then you need to make sure that you do not OVER tighten the fitting that holds the valve in the sediment bowl, because that could cause the handle to be very hard to turn.

Anywhere where there is a very small leak, try doing the same thing, or just try to "snug" everything up a touch more!

Would LOVE to see some pictures of your B, as you know, I have a 1935 JD B with Kay Brunner Cast Iron Wheels on it. Mine has a rebuilt head, but other than that is in need of restoration!

Good luck! Bryce
 
'Past' as in still going to the carb or 'past' as in leaking onto the engine/floor? If not shutting off to the carb, you can install a SS ball valve in the line. If onto the floor you can rebuild the valves. Some parts available from this site. HTH
 
If leaking out onto the floor around the shutoff handle, get some graphite packing string from a plumbing supply store. Wrap a couple of turns underneath the packing nut. You will need to experiment with the correct amount.
 
Sweetfeet It is an old tractor. Meaning it is like us old fellows. We all leak and mark our territory. LOL

In reality if your not worried about it being a 100% collector tractor you can install a modern type of shut of valve in the fuel line after the sediment bowl. This will keep the carburetor from leaking while sitting.
 
Have a similar [ but red ] tractor, had leaking sediment bowl shutoff, but I wanted to keep it, for the looks and all. I installed a small gasoline shutoff ball-valve quarter-turn in the fuel line, downstream, sort of hidden behind some support structure. From the farm and home store. Works great, only I know it's there, the original looks are kept. Keeps kids etc. from starting also.
 
Take it apart and you can see why it leaks then shine or maybe sand the seat area and ball end. They can usually be repaired ive done a few.
 
Bet you have the same kind I have on my 39. They don't screw in, they just turn. 1/4 turn off, 1/4 turn on. Mine leaks a little also. Wish I would have changed it when I had the gas tank off. Short of replacement I don't think there is a fix.
 
Thanks, Bryce.

I'll post some pics of the B sometime... just on coffee break right now - have to work on a Monday this week.
 
I'll ask him on the specifics of the leakage.

Thanks, will check out this site too... but I know he wants to keep it the old style.
 
Thanks. I'll tell him this idea too - not sure what all he has tried in the past... but I think it's been a pain in the neck for awhile.
 
JD Seller,

So that's the problem! LOL

Yeah, I think he's wanting to keep it original... that' he'd checked at JD a few years ago - and even their name brand ones are different now days.
 
FBH44,
Thanks, I'll tell him. And yes, wanting to keep it original is part of the issue.
 
There should be "packing" in there around the stem. Go to a good plumbing shop and they should have some.
 
If you do not get it fixed let me know and I'll see what the true owners manual say about it. As in not a reprint but the one that came with my 1935 JD-B when it was new. This manual almost never gets touched because of how old and fragile it is. In the picture the person on the tractor is the 3rd generation that has been on it. Plus I have had the 5th generation on it also
a185004.jpg
 
Take a look at the photo below of a three way valve.

a185020.jpg" width="650"


There is a rubber washer that goes on first, a metal washer goes on next, and then the brass nut.

I cannot find a parts diagram for the three way valve.

Y'all might check an auto parts store for "gas resistant" tape for the threads on the fuel filter body.

Used "gas resistant" tape on the fuel filter body threads, three way valve threads to the gasoline pipe, and three way valve threads to the fuel pipe after the tank was repaired.

a185021.jpg" width="650"


Hope this helps.
 
The correct one from Deere is a graphite coated cork seal. As someone else posted, part# D2122r
 
Thanks, old... I'll keep that manual in mind and holler if my husband wants me too.

Very neat old B!! Fun to have something in the family for that long.

We used to have ours on steel... and still have the wheels - but put the ol' girl on rubber quite a few years ago.
 
I stopped using the brass valves on my tractors and just leave them open full time. I cut a section out of the copper tubing and installed plastic quarter-turn ball valve with a section of rubber hose on each side of it. I think the shut off valve is $8.00 at the auto parts store and comes with the rubber hose and clamps.
 
My grand father got this B back in 1940 or so. I played many an hour on it when I was a kid. The owners manual that came with it is by far better then most since it even explains how to rebuild the engine
 
My dad had a JD A. He'd have me drive it ahead while he hand-picked corn rows that he left standing to be a snow-fence.

I could barely pull the clutch back... even while standing up and pulling with all my might. Was probably only 6-7 years old.
 
I never got to drive this one till I was 18 years old plus. Then my dad let it sit for years and it locked up. I got it freed up and well my brother wanted it but he is no longer alive. My son/daughter will own it when I am gone and hope they past it along to there kids
 

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