quick-hitches

For most, the top links on your implements will need to be lowered 4".
The implement will be further back- could affect pto length.
Easier to hook up (usually) sometimes more difficult if uneven ground.
I'm sure others will have more to add. I'd rather have a hydraulic top link.
 
I kinda draw the line at Cat 2 on this stuff.

If you can't nudge the implement by hand or with a bar easily use a quick hitch. If you can shift stuff probably better off without.

Yes it will shift your implement back and that can affect driveline lengths and weight distribution.

If you get a quickhitch get one that has a full frame not the attachments that go on the lower arms individually. One with a full frame will line the three points up and the other style will have your lower arms flopping side to side, never saw where they were any kind of help.

jt
 
From my experience not all Cat 1 implements are built "by the book" as far as the width between the pins. You might want to measure your implements to make sure they are all per the industry standard as the quick hitch will require this. (You could always take the hitch off for "non-compliers", of course.) Also, if your tractor gets light in the front with any of your implements the problem will be compounded with the quick hitch because the tool will be farther back.
 
I use them on my tractor to hook to a semi-mount plow. They stand the strain when turning better than just pinning to the lift arms because they don't spread and drop the plow.
 
This fall I finally took the quik hitch off the 8430. It didn't get used anymore and when the hitch drifted down it put the hydraulic hoses for the disk or field cultivator in a snarl. I would have to start it every few days when they were hitched up to keep from breaking those hoses. Now I don't have to worry. I now have TWO JD quick hitches sitting unused in the shed. I doubt they will every go on anything again as the only thing three point left here is the rotary hoe and I couldn't tell you the last time that was used.
 
I wouldn't give up my quick hitches for anything but there are some tricks to it and the main trick is to unhook the implement properly so it can be hooked back up with getting out a jack. If the implement is used only once every several years like a plow I make sure it's blocked so it doesn't settle one way or the other.
 
Really handy for hooking up the heavy cat 2 and 3 stuff; typically they all play well with standard fit so most stuff works.

Can be hard on hitches or hoses or pto shafts or your forehead while hooking up hitched stuff with it hanging back there when not being used and too heavy to take on and off - you bought it to leave it on after all....


On cat 1, often those implements are lighter and can be manhandled an inch or two to hook up.
They often have pots that don't like the extra couple inches of length required.
The top link is rarely standard or access able and so doesn't work with all your stuff.
Will not work with a post hole digger or other sissors hookup, Ford sickle mower, etc.
Lots of mickle and dime issues with the cat 1 implements that make a quick hitch handy when it works; but end up removing it for every other time you use the 3pt which negates the whole point of having one!

I got a cheap lightweight cat 1 quick hitch from Harbor frieght, and a hyd top link from Hay Doctor, and it works good, is light enough to take on and off pretty easy.

Its a winner on the big tractors, more questionable on the small tractors depending on how compatible your assortment of implement are.

The hyd top link is the first thing I would get tho, that is really handy, with or without the quick hitch. Just like the quick hitch, it doesn't work with special attachments, post hole diggers, Ford sickle mowers, etc. but it makes hooking up and adjusting most stuff so much easier......

Paul
 
The individual ones work well when you have pinable sway braces and the balls with guide cones to leave on the implements. Less torching on equipment to make them all work.
 
A quick hitch is a game changer when you pulling a stuck tractor out, of course you need to use common sense when doing it, we have 2 9400's bare backs and miss the quick hitch..but have them on all the rest of the tractors..
 
I just bought a set of Pat's quick hitches. Found out that my Cat 1 equipment are all different widths so I couldn't use the cheaper framed unit from ASC.

The older I get the harder it is to get down and this and that to load an implement. Eager to try mine out. And yes, having the implement position such that the hitch can get under the pin is a must being it blocked or screw jack.
 

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