hey Bryce.......

glennster

Well-known Member
saw your post below on the number 5 mower. here is my 42 m with a #5 on it. for the cylinder , i used a marker cylinder off an 800 cyclo planter. works good.

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im looking for my manual n the i-h cultivator that has the delay valve in it for the rear culitvators. if i find it i'll post it for you.
 
aha, found it, here is a pic of the delay valve and cylnder from the manual.

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Right on! Looks good! Is that a 7 foot bar? Looks to be bigger than that...

Here is a picture of my No.5 on the Super C.

I bought a complete Fast Hitch for it, but didn't like it, so I took the FH off, but left the Hydraulic valve on there, and now it is essentially a set of remotes! WITH power both ways as well! :)

Then I modified a few pieces of scrap, and made a draw bar that bolted on the tractor and accepted the mower with only 2 bolts.

Now I can bolt the drawbar on the tractor, then back right up to the mower, put my 2 bolts in, and I am set to jet! :)
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Didn't like the fast hitch ? That's the one thing I like about Farmalls !!!!
With a simple homemade or bought adapter 3 pt. stuff hooks right up to them.
 
Oh! Didn't even think about 3 point!! I bought it mostly for moving the baler around, because without a jack on the baler, it was VERY challenging to hook it up to a tractor.

With the FH Drawbar, I could just adjust it to the correct height, then hook up!

However, it was a free floating hitch, and I didn't like that it sloshed around. Would be great for mounted stuff, but didn't much care for it pulling loads...

Still have it, and plan to put it on the tractor as soon as the H is running. The H will be the muscle, and the SC will be the agility! :)
 
I have a Fast Hitch on my 300 and find it works pretty well for pulling the haybine and baler. I am not sure about the SC fast hitch but I know the 300 has pins that can be put in to keep it rigid or moved to allow it to float from side to side. I have mine in the rigid position since that is what I mostly need. It seems to stay put better than a 3 point hitch, but it's not as solid as a fixed drawbar.
Zach
 
Bryce - If you raise or lower the cutter bar by hand be very careful how you do it. In those models the knife can shift when raised or lowered and remove fingers.

Before we changed to using 350's, we always took a piece of 2x4 and bungied it in between two sections to hold the knife in place before raising or lowering.

Be safe and keep posting!
 
Not exactly sure how I would do that from the tractor? I am missing something?

Either way, no worries!! I only use the hand lever for when I am roading it, that way it is steel on steel holding the mower up, not the hydraulic system...

That is why the rope is wrapped around the handle, that keeps the handle "squeezed" so that if the cylinder brings the mower up too far, it doesn't lock into transport mode...
 
bryce, what nancy means is when you lift the bar verticle to lock it in transport position, dont get your fingers in the sections. they move when folding the bar up and will cleanly slice yer fingers off!!!
 
That cutter bar finger remover is more dangerous than a table saw or chainsaw because it's silent. Nothing is moving or making noise to alert your senses ahead of time. Your concentration is centered on trying to get the rod in the hole to put the wing nut on and you might forget the tip of a finger on the hand that is holding the bar up might be within the cutting zone if the sickle that is now vertical and fighting the forces of gravity. I've had the sickle go sliding down a few times and by luck my fingers were out of the way.
 

I always rotate the mower to pull the cutter-bar IN as far as it will go, to minimize the odds of the bar sliding down and STILL us all possible caution...
NO room for error here...

Ron.
 
glennster,
You are bringing back memories of when I was a kid on a dairy farm. I was the youngest boy in family and got the job driving tractor or truck. Cutting, raking, running the baler. Some times we baled and dropped. Then had a large flatbed with a hay hicker on the side to lift bails 4 high on truck. I was the truck driver and got yelled at if I didn't keep the truck from jerking in granny gear. I was lucky to get my foot on the gas and look out the window at the same time.
 
Yes Jim, very dangerous. When in High School one of our neighbors had an eldery gentleman from town mowing weeds in pastures. He did in fact take the end of a finger off lifting the cutter bar to transport position.
 
Okay, I am with you, wouldn't surprise me if they did!!

On my bar, there is a peg/stop at the end, so when you are done mowing, you stand it up, and the bar will slide all the way down on it's own and then sit on the peg...

Makes it a little safer, but after working for the neighbor, and shaking his hand, I am fully aware of the accidents waiting to happen!!!

Bryce
 
You wouldn't as long as your cylinder/hydraulics were working. If you ever have to raise or lower the bar manually, you need to be aware that the knife can shift in the process.
 
George I once saw a video of western rancher who trained his large dog to keep his truck straight while he unloaded hay from flatbed.
 
To save your fingers when manualy raising the sickle bar is to keep your hand on the back side of the sickle bar. NEVER PICK UP THE BAR FROM THE GUARD SIDE OF THE BAR. Also get a 7 ft. section 4 or 5 in. drain tile, slit it the length of the tile and use it to cover the guard points when the mower is not in use! Use a couple of tarp straps to hold the tile on the cutter when the mower in not in use. Armand
 
A big dog may have had a better chance than I reaching the gas peddle and seeing out the window at the same time. Dad should have put an extension on the gas peddle, my legs were too short.

I think the truck we had was an international BC180. I going to google it and see what comes up. WOW, I can't remember what happened yesterday, but I'm impressed with my long term memory. It was a BC180.
found this on ebay.
 

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