Farmall H Hydraulics?? Confused!!

Bryce Frazier

Well-known Member
Alright, so, I have been trying to do a little research, and EVERYONE has a different answer for me, so SOMEONE PLEASE point me in the right way on this!!

On my H (1944) There is the control handle and 1 plug on the right side.

There is a weired looking spring/plug thing on the top, must be filler huh?

And then on the left side, there are two more plugs!!!!!!

WHAT ARE THEY???

The guy I got it from said that if I was to put a loader on it, I would run it off of the ports on the left side, and the loader it's self would have it's OWN valve body and up/down control. Then I could still have a remote, power out, glide back, out of the plug on the right??

What am I looking at?!?! :) Thanks, Bryce
 
All 3 plugs on the side are the outlets for the belly pump. The one on top is the fill cap. The belly pump is only up and down, and gravity down, no pressure. Youll have to add a valve to do more, and tie back the belly pump control rod. Tons of info on how to do this in the Farmall archives right here on YT.
 
Years ago I had a Farmall M and bought a valve that gave me up and down pressure. I was using it pulling a 4 wheel dirt pan. Ask the guys on the Farmall board if you need info on one.
Richard in NW SC
 
Did you read the last post about makeing the curl in the rods?I would really like to talk about your H tractor.I can walk you through a 12volt conversion.And help on some other issues as well. (970)-874-3973 (H) Steve
 
Yes I did, I will figure something out, but I do not have a welder, so I will be using a torch a my "wit" :)

I wrote your number down, not ready to talk yet, maybe in a few days... Today I am painting the carb and putting it back on, once it is fired up and running, and all is well, THEN I can start purchasing things/adding on/ etc, but I need to make sure that it is a good tractor BEFORE spending money on it! Already learned that lesson!!! :)

Bryce
 
Also, was going to tell you guys that I am looking at putting a single front wheel on this tractor...

A friend literally has a pile of single front wheels/forks/ and everything else I need. He offered to trade me my narrow front for a single front, stamped steel wheel, and a nice tire!?

I know that they aren't worth anything to him, but I would like to have one I think... Can't imagine that it would be any tippier than a narrow front??

He says that they turn a little easier, and won't tear the ground up nearly as badly...

What do you guys think?? Bryce
 
Any implement for an H needs it's own ram and it can be a one way which requires one hydro line and it can be connected on left side of pump on tractor. The control lever on rh side is "pull towards you for lift". You can lift part way by releasing the lever and let is settle down on the notch at half-way position. to lower(drop) the implement you lift up on lever to clear the notch and push forward. This is for any unmodified hydraulics on an H.
 
Okay cool! I have a JD No.5 mower and this last year I ran it with my Super C, and the Fast Hitch cylinder, pretty hokee pokee, but IT WORKED! :)

This year, I am thinking that I could hook it on my H, or get my IH 27V out of the weeds and put it on the H... I have a cylinder that would be the perfect size for the No. 5, and it only has 1 port on it, so I assume it is a power in, gravity out cylinder?

If that is the case, then all I need to do is make a hose and I should be set!
 
like the other guys said, the belly pump is a one way pressure supply with a gravity down. there are three ports on the pump, all the same. they are for a mounted cultivator. the front two ports go to the left and right front gangs of the cultivator, while the rear port goes to the rear set of cultivators. there is a delay valve that mounts in the rear set hydraulic line that will delay the drop of the rear set of cultivators.
 
......I have a cylinder that would be the perfect size for the No. 5, and it only has 1 port on it, so I assume it is a power in, gravity out cylinder?.....
believe you will find it is power extend, gravity retract as for as the cylinder itself is concerned.
 
The narrow front turns way easier than a single. The two wheels roll when turned, the single must scrub the ground on the contact patch. I would recommend the single for vegies only and then it is not handy for slow turning. Jim
 
You will change your mind if you ever have to buy a new tire for one of those single fronts! Best to stick to the 2-wheel front. Just getting that single tire off is a struggle all alone!

BTDT.
 
Stay with the narrow.The narrow will acctually do better turning and will naturally better support the front of the tractor.Especially on plowed ground.No difference in 'tipping factor'.The single will tend to push going around tight corners.Not much of an issue IF the tractor has good brakes.I'll bet the H will have poor brakes.So If you just have to have a single,buy one. Just dont get rid of that narrow one.BTDT.The only time a single is 'better' is cultivateing narrow row crops with water furrows.
 
Bryce: You say you don't have a welder ?

Maybe you should join forces with Lanse. LOL! Oh and by the way he has a sister that can weld. wink,wink
 
Hadn't thought of that, but that is exactly what my JD 40T does, you start to turn, and it like to just push that single front...

Sticking with the narrow, until it is a restored "show only" tractor at least... :)
 
left and right plugs are single way the rear one n left side is a delayed action for rear cult assy. The funny cap on top is where you fill the system there should be a two piece rod with a washer on top so they dont fall in the bottom. The two piece thing hinges in the middle to remove and read the level in the resivour. If you want two-way hy you will need to add some hoses and a control valve.
 
Bryce,about the welder issue....Buy one. It will make/save you more money than any of those old tractors.300 to 400 dollars is an ivvestment.So save your money,pass up the next old tractor(unless it is a really 'special' one) and buy a welder.A lincoln '225 AC 'Tombstone' is a great one to start with.Avoid a wire feed.They are great for tin work/lighter gages. Not worth a d@mn for heavy work.Learn to use it.PracticePracticePractice.With that welder you can make/repair allkinds of cool stuff.You should see some of the 'stuff' I built over the years.....Besides the tractors,the welder is probably the most important piece of 'equipment' on the farm.Sorry for the 'rant', Steve. Keep up the good work!
 
My JD 60 is a single front. No power steering so a bit 'grunty' at low speed, HOWEVER, using the brakes to turn is easy (independent R & L). 'Ole John' with rotate 360 in slightly over it's own length.
 
I have a 44 H as well. I wanted a loader with up and DOWN pressure. I got a log splitter valve from TSC mounted it onto a pillar hooked to the u bolts that hold the fender on. Little enginuity involved. Then put quick connect ends on the hoses where they hook to loader cylinders. Ran supply hose from pump to valve and return back through the fill spout with a pipe threaded T put under the cap. It required me to make a new dip stick but that was no trouble. The valve is set to have the detent on the down side to keep pressure there while pushing snow instead of it kinda floating up on me. I push the rod for hydrolics to off when Im not using it or when shutting tractor off. In our cold weather tractor starts easier without pump on. Then when tractor is warmed up I engage the pump and use my valve to operate the loader system. With the quick releases on the hoses at the loader I can chain up the loader for security, unhook hoses and route them to another hydrolic use.
 

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