Cracked block

ridgelane · Oct 28, 2011

I just discovered a farmall A on my dads place. I asked about it and was told it has a cracked block. From what we can see, its a hairline crack on the outside. Can a crack like this be welded or sealed in some manner?

big fred · Oct 28, 2011

Is the crack about halfway up the block, behind the carburetor?

They're supposed to be like that. ;o)

Well, maybe not, but it's nothing to worry too much about. That's a common problem with the little Farmalls. If it's leaking (seeping) coolnant, you can vee out the crack and fill with JB Weld. The cooling system is unpressurized.

old · Oct 28, 2011

Seen many a block fixed that had cracks. Some worked out well some worked but looked very bad. So simple answer is yes it might be able to be fixed by welding or using J.B. weld both work if done right

Anonymous-0 · Oct 28, 2011

Yep, some can be repaired :wink:

ridgelane · Oct 28, 2011

Thanks. The crack is about halfway up but more towards the front. It runs horizontally. I have no idea thus far, if it leaks. I am a big fan of JB weld, have fixed many things with it.

I was hoping to get a little tricycle Farmall or John Deere but this little A is kinda cute. Might make it a project.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 28, 2011

I think that would be a fantastic project, I wish I had one

dr sportster · Oct 28, 2011

I had a cracked block and did alot of online research about it and the modern way is to put pins in the crack. I found a place that did it and they wanted to see the crack before quoting a cost to repair. I ended up arc welding it cold[ no preheat or postheat]. So far it has not seeped any magnaflux die from inside the water jacket through the weld. The real test will be when it runs. There is all kinds of info if you google this. You may even come back to this site and find posts by George MD who gas welds and metal sprays very far gone work. I would like to know how to gas weld them which I beleive is an iron rod where arc is nickle based and risky to recrack.Since its an A maybe J-B weld it first what can you lose.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 28, 2011

Hi ridgelane, dont be scared to look me up in the directory, you can give me a call sometime. I dont know lots but I know a little bit :wink:

Russ from MN · Oct 28, 2011

I welded one with a nickel/cast rod many years ago and when I was done it still seeped a little so I put some stop leak in it. We used it for years like that and had no problem. No matter how you fix it I would put some stop leak in it.

James Williams · Oct 28, 2011

That block should be a easy fix,A 70-18 rod is just as good as they get.That cast is virgin cast and welds very well.A welder with a lot of experience is your best friend.

jimmy

Mike M · Oct 28, 2011

Trouble with Jb weld is that once the engine warms up the block expands and the JB doesn't and then you leak again.

Once a crack always a crack. It may be able to get patched up and get running if it is stuck bad then you may be better off finding another block or running engine to put in it.

Charlie M · Oct 28, 2011

I did JB Weld on my W30 with a lot more than a hair line crack - hasn't leaked a drop in 20 years. Cost me about $5.

Bob Huntress · Oct 28, 2011

Clean everything away from the crack. Drill a clean hole at each end of the crack to prevent it from getting bigger as you work. With a grinder cut a small groove along the crack. If you can get your hands on some Nickle 97, that would be the best rod, but there are other nickle alloy rods available today. At question is whether you feel comfortable welding the crack? If it were me, I'ld consider removing the block and doing the weld in the flat position. Does your crack intersect a machined surface?

DeltaRed · Oct 28, 2011

My uncle Fred cracked the block of an M some 60 years ago.Fixed it with somekind of epoxy"goop".Seeps a little-always has-never been a problem.Tractor is still in the family,used regularly,and was even painted 10 years ago!

Stephen Newell · Oct 28, 2011

JB weld is good stuff but when it comes down to risking loosing your coolant it"s worth the trouble to weld it. An external leak can be welded just fine with a nickel rod or brazed. I would recommend disconnecting the battery if you use an electric welder.

big fred · Oct 28, 2011

BTW, I have a Farmall B with the same crack. Never did anything to it, didn't even bother with Stop Leak. I did flush the block once, got a lot of crud out of it. After that it seeped for a few hours and stopped. After it stopped seeping, I drained the water out and put in antifreeze. No leaks to this date.

PJH · Oct 28, 2011

I've welded them just like Bob Huntress described, but never did one in the vertical welding position - always had the block off the tractor.

Paul

BANDITFARMER · Oct 28, 2011

This will be a new one for most of you guys. You could use Harris SIB Mig wire. Its Bronze Silica mig wire .023 through .063 and you use it like regular mig wire. Drill the ends of the crack (like others have said) use a cut off wheel to cut down into the crack and weld it on a higher heat so it melts and runs (seeps)down into the crack. Beat way is to have it laying flat so gravity dose the work. I did one 3 years ago (250 chevy 2" down from the top 11" long) and still not leaking. I thought I would pass this along. Bandit

Chuck (CA) · Oct 28, 2011

Try this link
Worked for me on a cracked rear end... No leaks
Lock N Stitch

fixerupper · Oct 28, 2011

Lay the tractor on it's side. I layed my SC Case on it's side with the chain hoist, to weld a freeze crack in the block. It was a little tricky (and scarry) when the tractor was just at the tipping point but I got the job done. Jim

buickanddeere · Oct 28, 2011

Muggy weld after pre-heating the block.
Just how many cracks are there in the block? There maybe more?
How rare are A blocks ?

gene bender · Oct 28, 2011

With a crack ;ike that just clean the area and repair with some rubber cement or even JB weld ive done them that way and they will last forever.

george md · Oct 28, 2011

Now that you have just about every ones majic
hockempucky and all the ideas for the hot glue
sticks, the one answer you got that is right is
the lock n stitch . As one who fixes many things
of cast iron , the best way to ruin what you have
is to weld it with any kind of arc weld , boy do
I ghet to undo a lot of damage. If you arc weld
any on that crack , you have eliminated any
chance of drilling for lacing plugs because the
arc makes heat and with the cold iron around it,
the surounding chills quickly and becomes like
white cast and is almost tool steel hard ,will
destroy drill bits.

The lock n stitch site has 4 pages on cast
iron welding , read it and learn it , it is a
crash course on cast iron welding that would
take you many many years to learn by doing.
Ask me how I know.

Below the photos is a link to more cast repair
and the rest of the photos of the mianus exhaust
manifold. It was made 1910 to 1915.

outer layer destroyed by rust and
erosion and freezing

more of the repair

JDseller · Oct 28, 2011

I have seen them welded that held but they all look like crap after being welded. I have repaired many using brass screws. If it it just a hair line crack you can fix it easily by drilling and tapping. You start at one end of the crack. Drill and tap a hole to match your brass screws/bolts, I usually use 1/4 x 20. Then screw the brass bolt in so it is just through the block on the inside. Cut the screw off flush with the block on the out side. Drill the next hole half on the brass and half on the crack. Tap it and tread in another brass screw. Repeat as long as it takes to go the length of the crack. It is kind of slow because you only gain half the width of the bolts you are using. It does leave a repair that looks very good and will hold well. Many times you can not even see the repair after painting. The brass expands faster than the cast iron. So when you run it it will seal tighter after it is warm.

17andcollectingcases · Jan 28, 2015

Hey Jim I have an SC with a cracked block and would like to know more about how you fixed it thank you
Zach

L.Fure · Jan 28, 2015

This may sound crazy, but you can stop leaks with ground ginger. The kind you use in baking. I bought a Case DC for the loader that was on it. I had to get the tractor running so I could drive it home. I knew the radiator was empty so I brought some water along to get it home. When I dumped the water in the weep hole on the water pump started peeing out water. Of course when I started the engine it stopped. But then we found a crack in the block behind the radiator. It was bad enough where I knew I wouldn't make home before the water ran out. Dad jumped in the truck and headed to town. When he got back he had two containers of ground ginger. Poured both containers in the radiator and after a few minutes the leak stopped and I drove the tractor home. It was still freezing weather at that time, so I had to drain the block when I got the tractor home. I had to run the tractor a few time and filled it with water and drained it both times. Later on I decided to keep the tractor to use. I replaced the water pump and filled the cooling system with antifreeze. That crack never did leak. But the tractor always smelled like ginger when the engine warmed up.

Royse · Jan 28, 2015

About half way up seems to be the norm for that engine.
I have a BN that the PO had welded the entire length of
the block from front to rear. Twice. Still weeps some.
I also have a replacement block if I ever get the pistons
out of it. They're stuck quite badly.

Owen Aaland · Jan 28, 2015

That type of crack is caused by the coolant freezing in the block. there is a 340 around here that had that happen over 40 years ago. They just bolted a plate with a gasket over the crack. Still doesn't leak or cause any other problems.

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