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Looking For Farmall H Stuff...

B

Bryce Frazier

Well-known Member
Mainly looking for an M & W friction throttle plate/handle, rather than the old saw tooth design.

Also would like anything else aftermarket from M & W, or any one else....

Also need the rod that controls the Hydraulics, and the rod that engages the PTO, a light bar, light switch, and a few other small things...

Let me know what you have got!

I know someone on here had a friction throttle, but I can't for the life of me remember who it was?!?!

Thanks! Bryce
 
Hello Bryce, I think you are located north of Spokane but do you know Doug D'avis of Doug's tractor parts in Moses Lake? Great guy to deal with and he likely has most of the parts you are looking for. Had a half dozen H's and several M's he was parting out. Good luck, Mike
 
Bryce,youre in luck!I have some/most of the stuff you need.But shipping from Colorado may be prohibitive.The control 'rods' are just common round stock.Those you can easily make.I have a light bar,maybe a switch and lights.Email or call me. Steve
 
Try Steiners Tractor Parts or Easy Bob's ( Devon's) of Westfied,Indiana. They both have them and they match an M&W throttle.
 
The cost of shipping and postage just get a piece of rod and make them. The rod will only cost around 5bucks. Those throttles are on ebay all the time.
 
Post a want Ad on YT classified, shipping is expensive. I paid $50 for a seat and $45 shipping.

Learn how to make or repair your own parts, get creative use a 1/2 pipe for light bar. Rotary switch from auto store for light switch. Round stock for control levers.

I repaired the throttle lever on my Farmall C. Welded up the worn section, ground it back level. Same with the tooth part, welded it up, used die grinder to put an edge on teeth.

If you are going to play antique tractors, don't expect to find too many special parts unless you buy a second tractor just for parts.

You may want to start collecting tools to have a good machine/metal shop.

Looks to me like you should be concerned about getting new rubber on the front wheels.
 
OH yesssss, Doug and I are very good buddies! Here was here this last weekend looking at a few tractors!

I haven't talked to him yet, but I imagine he will have most of the stuff I need, I am mostly concerned about one of those M & W throttles... Think that would be very cool, and a good conversation piece for shows and stuff! :)
 
I have the tires for it floating around here somewhere... They are just 6.00 x 16's, I think that I will probably have 4 or 5 of them. Need to go look in the tire corner in the parts shed! Bryce
 
That would be neat to have, however cats have never really blown my skirt up... Should I be more interested in it than I am?

Been through Vashon before, should be about 7-7:30 from my front door... Could get there, load up, crash in the truck, then head out in the morning...

Not sure if mom would let me go that far on my own though.....

Bryce
 
Yep, I am sure that I can make the rods... Any idea as to what size stuff I should use?

Hadn't thought about E-Bay, will go check that out now..... Bryce
 
Good you have tires. 4 New goodyear tires is more than a tractor will sell for all fixed up.

I have a farmall C, $1500. Farmall's don't command a high price tag, especially the H and M's. Don't get too much in them, unless they have sentimental value.
1500 farmall h
 
That light switch is NOT just a light switch but a voltage-amperage control as it has the settings for low charge, high charge, low beam lights and high beam lights. It is more or less a voltage regulator. You have to have correct switch for generator to work if you have lights or not. If just light part is bad could wire around like you are thinking with a different type of switch but it still has to be there with the voltage regularter part working. For all use including working ground all day every day we always kept ours on full charge and never ant battery problems. I don't know if a different type of voltage regulater could be had and made to work or not. John T. could probably tell if it could be done.
 
I am probably in this one too much already, but it isn't going anywhere... :)

I can get a much better rear tire for it for $100 from a friend, I have the skills to make it run and drive, I think that once we get the carb back on it we should be in business!

Just a side not, I have NEVER seen a carb as rusty as this one was!! Shocked it even worked at all!!!!

Will check in on it this morning... It is soaking in sssstttuuffff :)
 
Thats true..... Hadn't thought of it.

This one has a starter set up to run on 6V, but I may convert the tractor back to 12 Volt.

Would there be a way to run that switch on 12V?

I want the tractor to look original, I am NOT going to be starting the thing by touching to wires together!!!!! :

It really did light right off with the 12V though, and it is a MAG, so all the 12V would be doing is starting and running lights. I have a very nice Delco 1 wire alternator I can put on it, should work just fine.

Anyone have any creative ideas?
 
If carb is rusty, good chance the tank will be too. Good chance the tranny oil hasn't been changed and it will look like tar and smell. Change all fluids. If generator isn't a problem now, good chance it will be in future.

These old tractors are a money pits. I have 2 money pits. Mine are work tractors. Motors and hydraulics rebuilt. I Use them all the time. So for me, it's worth putting more money in them than I can sell them for. I can't see fixing up the old girls expecting to make a profit, no way.

IMO, any carb that sits empty will rust, condensation. Any tank that sits empty, same thing. Any tractor left outside seem to get rain in places you don't want water, tank, tranny, ignition.
 
Don't get too het up over that friction throttle. I have two H's, one with the friction throttle and one sawtooth. I prefer the former. Even when adjusted properly, the friction one seems to have a way of slowly sneaking down while running.

Since the one with the friction throttle is my "good" H, and the other one is going to a consignment auction this spring, I may switch them.
 
My farmall C is 12v alternator. So it can be done without a voltage regulator. Not sure how it's wired, just works. One could always put both 6v lights in series.

Really, the light are not that important. I've never used mine.
 
That tractor was orignally 6 volts, never 12 volts. The alternators confuse me so no Ideas there. We converted our 41 to distributor because of hard starting. And when was having trouble with cranking after replacing starters was told to shorten the positive battery cable, had bought a replacement cable that was longer than nessary. cut that cable and put on a replacement end so it was just long enough to reach and then it spun starter like it was supposed to where before it would hardly turn it over, and the cable was good and clean.
 
Hmmm, we will have to look into it...

Electrical is our weak spot thought! I am best at cosmetics, body work, perfectionist stuff. Me AND dad together are very good with mechanical stuff, and then there is wiring..... :

I need lights on mine, that is just a must have. You never know if you will need them, and there have been a few winter slide off emergency's, where having a tractor with lights would have been VERY nice!
 
OH! I didn't know that... Something to consider! I will get the machine running and try using it, just to see if I like it or not... Was certainly a pain to operate from the ground!

Thanks for the Info! Bryce
 
There is a square tooth throttle available, which is nicer than the angled one. I have one on my H. Works nice and does not slip.
 
The PTO is 5/16.The hydralic rod is 3/8. The choke is 1/8.I've made all these (and more) over the years. Pretty easy for someone as talented as you.As was said,you can also make your own lightbar... Steve
 
What do you like to use to bend the material?

I am sure that I could use plates and cold bend them in the bench vise, but I really don't want all of the vise grip marks on the new rod!?! Bryce
 
I grew up farming with an H, two M's and a SMTA. We did not like the fricton throttles. They were alway requiring adjustment, cleaning and were a pain.

Gene
 
Use a hammer,crescent wrench,vise grip only if nessesary.Any 'flaws' can be cleaned with a file.Make what you need now.Get the tractor opperational.Then later you can locate/buy the 'right' parts.
 
Sure... Hadn't thought about heating... We try to do as little heating as possible, just because of the possibility of weakening something, but then I probably won't be able to break one of these rods with my bare hands!! :)

I will pick up some rod.. Should only cost me a few bucks! :)

Who knows, I might make them look so good that I won't replace them!!!

Thanks for the great tips! Bryce
 
Just get red.It will bend easily.Not to worry about breaking!Do a good job.Think as you go. Even if they dont work so good at first,that's OK. The practice/experience will serve well as you get older and continue to work on old tractors.....Remember...As I said I have made lots of 'parts' like that. Some I used some artistic 'flair/liscence and put my own 'twist' on things.Kind of improved on
'factory".Those little things are what keeps things interesting.And adds GREAT conversation at shows!Steve
 
I am thinking that for the PTO I will make a triangle based T handle, should be easy enough to do, and should be pretty easy to reach...

For the Hydraulics, I like the look of the spiral ones that they had from factory, but I am not sure how I could replicate that.... I will think of something though... :)

Thanks, Bryce
 
Bryce, I have an M+W friction throttle in working order that came off a parts tractor, I was looking to get $30 for it and could mail it for $6, I think, in a flat rate. If you're interested let me know and I'll get a picture. I had an M+W on my H and liked it a lot, but some folks do prefer the saw tooth or square tooth kinds.
Zach
 
Find a piece of 1" round.A 1"bolt will do. Tack weld one end of the rod to the round. heat the round.When red,slowly bend the rod around the round.And whala!,you have a perfact round 'spiral'/loop.Or...you vise grip the end of the rod,heat and bend. The loop will have a small offset this way.Simply lay flat on a table and a smack with a hammer will fix that.Play with it a bit.See what works.All good practice.
 
The new ones are not the same as the M+W. Here is one I just found on eBay that is up to $35 and doesn't end till tomorrow.
Zach
M W
 
I bet they work the same ?

I've seen people pay more for a lot of things on ebay than you can buy new for. I saw service manuals for a Ford 555B selling for more than I could go to the local New Holland dealer and get one for so I had them get me one.
 
An Estwing hammer and a hammer from the dollar store work the same, it's just that one works better than the other, at least in my opinion.
Zach
 
I have a very nice rear light with the red lens and switch. two new bulbs (6v) and mount. $20 plus shipping.
email is open
a181097.jpg
 
Actually they are not bad once you get used to them. Ours got replaced but it was because the lever broke and at that time did not have a welder. Easier to just go to at that time and buy a new one from TSC that at that time was actually a tractor supply company, not what they are today.
 
My Dad had an almost brand new friction throttle hanging in his workshop for years. Didn't like it one bit.

Mainly because he(you) have to grab it and move it to slow down and the angle tooth one he could just tap the handle to slow the engine. Plus, it never moved on it's own. He had several marks on the tooth plate where he like to run different things. Such as hammermill, saw, plow etc.

He and I spent several hours over the years rebuilding the teeth and handle. The friction one just continued to hang in the shop.
 
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