C Allis Chalmers

Rebuilding a 1941 C Allis Chalmers tractor with a 125 cu. inch 4 cylinder gasoline. Starter engine after overhaul with no engine oil pressure. Tried different pressure guage and primed pump. No pressure. Broke tractor into again and removed the oil pump. Order a complete rebuild kit for the pump plus, springs and pressure relief spring and ball. Re-installed pump and engine to tractor. Primed pump still no pressure on guage put do have oil at the rocker arm assembly.

I have rebuilt over 35 antique tractors in my life time but this C AC has just about tried my patience.

Any thoughts regarding my problem.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Are you sure you didnt remove a plug or fitting in the oil system somewhere. Take a plug out somewhere on the outside of the block and blow air thru there and listen for where a leak mite be. There has to be someplace even where the oil guage goes would work. They brought me a B FARMALL because it didnt have any oil pressure after overhaul. Guess what i found behind the camgear missing plug.
 
(quoted from post at 21:21:50 12/19/14) Rebuilding a 1941 C Allis Chalmers tractor with a 125 cu. inch 4 cylinder gasoline. Starter engine after overhaul with no engine oil pressure. Tried different pressure guage and primed pump. No pressure. Broke tractor into again and removed the oil pump. Order a complete rebuild kit for the pump plus, springs and pressure relief spring and ball. Re-installed pump and engine to tractor. Primed pump still no pressure on guage put do have oil at the rocker arm assembly.

I have rebuilt over 35 antique tractors in my life time but this C AC has just about tried my patience.

Any thoughts regarding my problem.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Does your oil filter base have the metal tube in it that slips inside the filter? Also, the filter needs to be the type that is packed with fiber...this is what creates pressure.
 
What Eldon said pulse sometimes on those engines you need to take the fitting loose on the rear of the engine and prime the pipe that runs back down to the intake valve and the oil pump to get it pumping.
 
A common mistake that is made in rebuilding the oil pumps is putting the vanes in backwards. The sharp side has to be on the leading side when turning. The other mistake made is using the wrong gasket under the pump cover. If you use the thick one the pump has way to much clearance between the rotor and the cover and the pump can not create a vacuum. If your sure you have them in correctly then put a long gas line hose on the filter stand pipe and fill it with oil. let it seep down and refill. Start the engine and when the oil starts flowing stop the engine and replace the filter. Restart the engine and watch the pressure come up on the gage.
 
Checked that first. With the C AC 1/2" pipe screwed to the block with siphon tube attached at the bottom. No plugs were removed. Thanks so much for the response.
 
No need to loosen fittings when the stand tube in the center of the filter base is connected to the pump thru the fittings. With the hose you can get more oil above and thru the pump and see when oil starts to flow. It removes the guess work.
 
Dale One thing I DID myself was to install the filter with the wood dowel rod still in it. The steel stand pipe came off in the old filter and I did not know there was a wood rod in the new filter. The wood rod fit into the oil filter base plugging the hole perfectly. It took me two days to find the problem.
 

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