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Headlight alignment

R

rrlund

Well-known Member
There must be a right answer to this. I was thinking it used to be right on the box when you bought a headlight.
When aligning headlights and you park on the level,say in a garage,how far should you be from the wall and how far up the wall should the beam be for bright and/or dim?
On a pickup by the way,not a tractor.
 
Well, the way I do it is to rough them in as close as I can, then get on level ground as close to a wall as I can, take a measurement of the center of the headlight beam on the wall, then back away as far as I can keeping the vehicle or tractor level and on the same height. I adjust the far away distance to be the same as the near distance. This is just using geometry to get the beam level. That worked quite well on my BMW. :D
 
If you can move the vehicle away from the wall and back toward the wall and the center of the beam stays on your mark on the wall, then you know you'll be level.
 
25 feet from the wall, the vertical aim should be so the top edge of the high intensity zone is within 4 inches of the center line of the headlights. Left right aim, the left edge of the high intensity zone is within 4 inches of the vertical centerline of the headlamp. This is for low beam. High beam lamps are similar, but use the center of the high intensity zone.
 
That information is online; just Google it.


Personally, I drive to the Toyota dealer. Before they take the vehicle in the shop for warranty work, they park in a certain spot and check the lights against marks on the wall, but they never had to adjust the lights.

They also do a free safety check (in hopes of creating more business) but they never find anything to do on my vehicles.
 
Rrund what is a oliver 1550 2 wheel diesel with duall loader good tires , two remotes. paint fair. He wants $ 5500.00
 
(quoted from post at 16:42:26 12/19/14) 25 feet from the wall, the vertical aim should be so the top edge of the high intensity zone is within 4 inches of the center line of the headlights. Left right aim, the left edge of the high intensity zone is within 4 inches of the vertical centerline of the headlamp. This is for low beam. High beam lamps are similar, but use the center of the high intensity zone.
Click to expand...


+1

Pennsylvania state safety inspection guidlines
 
There was a 1550 diesel posted here close to home on Craigslist just a few days ago,no loader,for $4500,so if the loader is decent,that's probably about right.
 
I like to wait for a foggy morning/evening. Place the car on a level field and use the beam in the fog to see where beams actually point. Adjust as necessary. I had one car where commercial allignment tools never could get it right.
 
Hello rrlund,

Level surface 25ft away, one inch drop from the center of the head light, to the center of the shining of the beam...........DONE!

Guido.
 
I just know that when I drive this F250 the bright and dim both point down on the road way too close to the front of the truck. It was a service truck with a topper and drawers and what not,so I think it was adjusted with the back end squatting a lot more.
 
That's close. Actually, low beam, 25 ft from wall. Top edge of hot spot just touch the level line, left edge of hot spot touch the line straight forward of center of light.
In other words, hot spot of low beam slightly below & to right of center, so it doesn't blind oncoming drivers.
WJ
 
Adjustment is a multi night project when I do it. Eyeball it then drive it to check. Move as needed to keep lights out of ditches and oncoming and to shine on the road where I want.
 
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