9N ignition head scratcher

9N with 12 volt system problem. Quit running. Mechanic found electric short burn at rotor cap.. Replaced cap, points, rotor ,condenser. Would not start. Replaced coil. Still not start. Replaced rotor, condenser, points. Started but run very rough. Rechecked everything even set timing as called for in manual. Would not even start. Any suggestions? Prior to problem, had a small fire from overfill of gas tank. Put out fire with powder type extinguisher. No burned wires. Tractor ran fine for 2 hours after incident and then quit. Could powder affect engine/ignition? Have thought about going to electronic ignition.

It would be a lot cheaper to do your troubleshooting
before you buy a bunch of parts!

Powder can effect the wiring connections. But I would stop and think things through. Before you spend money.

Poor overworked, underpaid, abused by weather and CORROSIVE fire extinguisher powder, electrical components deserve better than to be condemned just because of their existence. They have the right to be innocent until proven guilty!. They should not be replaced until they have demonstrated lack of performance IN PRESENCE of voltage. In other words don't replace any electrical component unless your test confirms voltage to it and you see that it does not work or pass voltage through. The accepted way to do this is to use a jumper from battery to coil in order to eliminate possible problems and quickly isolate the problem. The problem is usually found to be a CONNECTION as opposed to a component. Applying corrosive powder to connections is like speeding up natural corrosion twenty-fold.

Have you tried to bypass the ignition switch, does it have a resistor block on the firewall and have you changed plugs (maybe gassed from flooding)

Head over the Ford N section of these forums and let the guys there walk you through what you need to do. Throwing parts at it isn't the way to proceed.

If it ran rough after you put all them new parts in, I would get another condenser and try that. Over half of the new condensers are junk.

Bob

Points set at 0.015??? Next check spark at all 4 plug wires. Spark needs to be a blue/white in color and jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. Next make sure the firing order is correct. Then pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a steady flow of gas for a few minutes. Catch the gas to look for dirt and water etc.

Thanks for all of replies. Mechanic states he has fire to coil but nothing come out... I bought parts from Tractor Supply Co. Should I go to another source for small parts or just install electronic for $100 from Yesterdays Tractor?

As I have "preached" in the past, diagnosis is the key to successful (and economical) repairs. Without doing some testing and verification, you may as well go down to the bank and get a satchel full of $100 bills to throw at it.
THE MOST EXPENSIVE WAY to fix a problem is to keep throwing money and parts at it until it is solved.
THE MOST INEFFICIENT WAY to fix a problem is the "shotgun" approach. Keep throwing parts at it until it is fixed.

Just suppose....you go and spend the hundred for the electronic ignition, and it DOES NOT FIX THE PROBLEM?????

Go back to the basics. Check for spark, compression, and fuel/air mix. Determine FOR CERTAIN which of the three is causing the no start. IF you have determined FOR CERTAIN that the problem is the ignition system, then TROUBLESHOOT THE SYSTEM!!!!

There are more systems involved in operating the ignition than just the coil, points, etc. The engine has to be turning the distributor, and has to be IN TIME for the system to function. The spark takes the following route...
1) Coil PRIMARY is saturated by the battery voltage.
2) This produces a spark in the coil SECONDARY.
3) This spark goes by wire to the center conductor of the distributor cap.
4) This spark is then conducted to one of the cylinder towers on the distributor cap by the ROTOR. The rotor could be shorting to ground inside the distributor. The rotor may also NOT BE TURNING. Bad distributor drive gear? Sheared locating tab inside the rotor not keeping it secure on the shaft? Not lining up with the correct cylinder tower on the cap?
5) The spark then travels to the spark plug in the designated cylinder, fires the plug, and you have (theoretically) combustion.

If ANY of these things are NOT IN ORDER, then putting on an electronic ignition will not only NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM, but will add just another layer of complication to the problem.

As a long experienced mechanic of over 45 years, I could most likely have it running (or KNOW the reason why not) within a couple of hours if I were there. HOWEVER, since I must depend on YOU to be my eyes and ears, if you give me inaccurate information, I can only give you an inaccurate diagnosis.

I recommend:
1) Fully diagnose the system. If it will not run with the existing system, it will also not run with a replacement electronic system.
2) Pinpoint the inoperative or failed component.
3) Report back what you find.

Had a friend do the same thing. Tune up but not from ford. Went
to electronic kit. Back to original system from dealer. None of
these worked. He spent over a year and many dollars , new carb
ect.
I put his original condenser back in and it runs like a top. He is
still amazed.

"Mechanic states he has fire to coil but nothing come out"

That's not a very good description of how a front mount
Ford distributor works. "fire to the coil" He might have 12V to
the coil, but does he have 12V there when the points are open
or when they are closed? Or both?
Should be 12V when open, but far less, roughly half, when closed.

TSC is not the best place for lasting parts, but they should run
when new. I like the idea of EI, but I wouldn't spend the money
until you figure out what is wrong. It may not fix you problem.

Check the voltage first. If you have what I described, take the
two bolts out, set the distributor on the bench and set the point
gap and timing per the book. (0.015 gap)

Then make sure you have the firing order right when you put
it back on. 1-2-4-3 CCW #1 is the cylinder near the radiator.
It is very easy to swap 3 and 4, although they'll normally start
even with them swapped.

If you don't have that voltage at the coil post what you have.

(quoted from post at 09:16:54 12/16/14) Thanks for all of replies. Mechanic states he has fire to coil but nothing come out... I bought parts from Tractor Supply Co. Should I go to another source for small parts or just install electronic for $100 from Yesterdays Tractor?

Click to expand...

Power to the coil is part of it - the down stream circuit makes the spark come out. Check it as Royse suggested.