injector pump

Hello again, I looked at the check valve and it was full of crud. Loosened the timing cover and the motor kept running. As soon as I tightened the cover it quit .It is a roosa=Master pump. Now how do I take it off and keep it in time? And where can I get the needed parts? Thanks again.
Gene

The pump timing marks are under the two screw cover on the side. After the fuel drains down turn the engine by hand until the mark on the moving plate aligns with the cam ring mark, then check the engine mark for reference.

I don't remember what engine you have. If it's
a 300 series Dubque Deere engine with a
horizontal-mount pump - it's pretty hard to go
wrong. Pump driveshaft stays attached to the
engine and pump slides off of that shaft. At
the end of the shaft is a male tang and a
dimple mark. The inside of the pump also has a
dimple mark that lines up with it. So the only
thing that can go out of wack is the little bit
of wobble room the pump has in the slotted
mounts. That's for fine tuning the static
timing. If the same pump goes back on -it's
usually easy to see where it was by the paint
marks. If you want to do it all by the book -
lock the flywheel on TDC for #1 cylinder on
compression stroke. There ought to be a special
bolt on the back of the engine with a timing-
stud sticking out of it. You remove the bolt,
flip it around,and lock it into the special
flywheel hole to lock on TDC. The pump also
has two timing lines that line up for TDC
installation.

You probably need a seal kit for $14. Also a
new pilot tube for $8. Also a new housing-
pressure-regulator for $10 (what you are
calling a check-valve).

One special tool needed to get the head screw
out of the pump. It uses a 6 tooth internal
fluted Bristol wrench. Wrench usually costs
$10 if you can find one. Some people have
modifed a Torx bit to make it work. Can't say
I've ever tried that.

US Diesel sells all the parts to anyone. They
are in Fort Worth Texas.

On the bench, it takes about two hours to take
the pump all apart, check it all out, reseal,
and put back together. If you send it out to
a pump shop - expect to pay anywhere from $400
to $800 for the same job. Maybe $50 in parts
and two hours labor. But the pump shop will
also take the time to mount the pump on a test
stand and verify all is working as it should.
Test stand not needed when you have your own
tractor to put the pump on and run. Once
running, timing advance can be easily adjusted
with the pump on the tractor, of needed.

RE the pellathane plastic ring that broke. It
can be updated to something better for an extra
$50. Pump shops usually do NOT give the
upgrade unless you ask for it.

Some info.