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farmall c oil pump

D

Don Dennis

New User
I recently rebuilt my Farmall C engine a few months ago and just today I got a chance to pull hard with it.I noticed the oil pressure drops to 0 at idle when hot and towards the low side at wide open throttle when warm,however it maxes out the gauge when cold and it has a new IH gauge in it.It does not knock at all and runs great.I had disassembled the pump and screen during the rebuild and polished the cover as I had read they can get grooved which it was but only small grooves maybe a few thousands deep.I had to use RTV to seal the cover,could this be an issue,not having used a gasket?
 
RTV was a bad idea I'd say, hope a piece didn't plug an oil gallery. I sanded the cover flat on mine over 20 years ago and cut a gasket out of thin gasket paper. Didn't put new bearings in mine , it buries the needle cold and it's in the middle at idle hot, 10/30 oil
 
Did you check the clearance with plastigauge? I think it should only be about .001-.002. Are you sure the cover didn't flex and blow out? I would drop the pan and check it.
 
.005 to .001 The gaskets are available from CaseIH They are available in different thicknesses to adjust end clearance. Jim
 
High oil pressure when cold or at high RPM, but low pressure at idle quite often is a problem with bearing clearances being too wide.
Did you check yours?
 
A couple of concerns, installing the pump cover without a gasket would have decreased the end play clearance on the gears. If the gears are bound up against the cover, they will gall against the cover and inside of the pump housing. This will cause reduced pump efficiency, and will release metal shavings into the engine.

Hopefully that didn't happen! But just for peace of mind, might be worth taking a look at it.

Also, where is the pressure relief valve? Possibly silicone or metal shavings have found their way there. If it s built into the pump, take it apart and be sure it's free and properly assembled. If it is accessible from the outside of the engine, same thing, be sure it's working properly. If it's stuck partially open it would give the same symptoms you describe.
 
Have seen where the cotter is worn @ the swivel in the pickup tube/screen. The joint might be "underoil" when level and full, but not when sidehill or down or uphill. It must swivel but be tight enough to not to suck air. Have even added an oring to take up the slack. Worn cam bearings, especially the front one, will loose a lot of pressure.
 
don.
No idea what your problem is caused by. I know my IH C the oil gauge is maxed out at an idle.

If my gauge is showing zero and before rebuild it was strong. I would be taking it apart ASAP and installing a new pump.

My farmall still has the old can filter. Did you convert it over to a spin on?
George
 
I have had a couple of those IH pumps apart in the past. The pot metal gear cover gets severely warped and the gear and shaft get worn too. I was still able to buy a NEW cover and shaft with gear and should be a cover gasket too ? then all was good again.
 
The gaskets are really shims to set the end play of the gears. Use as many as necessary to obtain the correct clearance.
 
I had the same problem this spring on my Super C that I mow with. To make a long story short I replaced the oil pump cover and gasket that I got from the IH dealer. I mowed with it all summer and the oil pressure stayed high even when the engine was hot. It also kept good pressure at idle. If you go back in the archives on this subject there is a lot more info available. Dale
 
I had a similar problem on a cub about a year ago. turned out to be a bad NEW gauge. At 35psi all was good, but if it dropped to 15 or 20 pounds the gauge read 0. Did not figure out what was wrong till I hooked the gauge to a pressure regulator on my compressor and slowly turned the pressure down from 35 to 15.

Did you have the crank ground or measure it for out of round before replacing the rod and main bearings?
 
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