'04 F-250 Transmission

in-too-deep

Well-known Member
Yes, it will haul tractors, someday. Our new-to-us pick-em-up has transmission fluid that smells a little toasty. 4sp auto. 4wd. 159k miles. V-10. 3.73 gears. What would be the best way to change fluid? Drop the pan and filter and refill? Have a shop flush it? Wait for now? What do you guys think? And yes, it did smell that way and I bought it anyway. Thanks!
 
I would probably go for the all fluid change especially if it is brown and smelly. Do a gentle flush. Consult with a known good tranny mechanic.
 
If I had the choice, 1st. (spendy) take it to a dealer and pay for a 'winter full service ' (including trans service. 2nd. go to one of those "Fast Oil Change" joints (works for me = warranty). 3rd. Do it myself, get dirty, get oil EVERYWHERE and take 4 hrs.
Do change the filter. Have a GOOD look when the 'pan' is off (at home or the oil change place) HTH
 
I have never had an issue with letting Midas change/flush the fluid. They let the transmission pump do the work and don't use an external "power flush" or "reverse flush". Most transmissions have a fine screen - not a filter. If the wear particles are big enough to catch in the screen your transmission is toast anyway.

However - since this is a "new to you" at 153K I'd go old school and drop the pan. You can inspect the magnet that is in the pan and see exactly how good or bad the wear is. You can also change the "filter" and see what has accumulated in it. You only get 5 quarts or so out leaving 3-4 quarts in the torque converter. Then at the next interval (30K) I'd start doing flushes. I would actually shorten the interval and do the flush to 20K especially if its seeing lots of towing for the next service.

50-50 shot the transmission still has the original fluid in it.
 
With the high mileage and unkown maintenance from the prev owner, just drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. Sometimes a power flush can lead to an early demise of a trans that didnt see regular service.
 
Most likely, the transmission you have is the E4OD. The pan on that one is rather large, and will hold at least 5 to 7 quarts of oil. An oil change and filter would be recommended. While the pan is off, you can see how much debris has collected on the pan magnet - as has been previously posted.

As to the "power flush" machines......I'm NOT sold. Having disassembled and rebuilt HUNDREDS of transmissions in my time, there is NO WAY that any machine can thoroughly flush spent oil from all of the "nooks and crannies" within a transmission. At least not without using at least a 55-gallon drum of flushing oil. I question the value and safety of those machines that claim to do so. And certainly not for the $99.95 that they typically charge...

Also, quite important: Take notice of the RECOMMENDED replacement oil. By this late date, your transmission most likely calls for Mercon V oil. Expensive but effective. Not all shops use the CORRECT oils in trans oil changes. Buyer beware, and do your homework and ask questions BEFORE you put money down. My "not so humble" opinion.
 
I would get that stuff oil out. When changing my fluid. I drop the pan change filter. fill up with new oil about the same as was removed. Then remove the line from the cooler. Put a hose on that line. Start the motor pump out one qt. Shut off the motor, then add one qt. I do that until I see new oil coming out the return tube. This is a little messy, but I believe you will get most of the old fluid out. Works for me. stan
 
The E4OD was last used in the 1997 SD Fords. Ford used the 4R100 (4 speed auto) for 1999 to 2003 then the 5R110 (5 speed auto) in some of the 2003s and then all the 2004s. No drain on the torque converters - those were dropped in the early 1990s.

Ford advises that Mercon LV be used instead of the "original" fluid "Mercon SP" in the 5R110 torqshift.
 
Dan, I've been trying to figure that out. It looks like all the diesels '04 and later got the 5 speed, but did the V-10 and 5.4? And wasn't it mid- '04? Do you know how I can identify my transmission to be sure? Does the 5 speed have spin-on filter on the pass side? Forgot to look on mine. I'd much rather have a Torqshift 5sp, but being mine's a gas jobby?
 
An 04 F250 V10 should still be the 4R100. That uses the Mercon V fluid. The 6.0 diesel went to the 5R110W in 03.

The easiest way to tell the difference between the two is the 4R100 will have a range sensor bolted to the case right behind the shift linkage on the drivers side. On the 5R110, that sensor was moved internal so it won't be there.

Like someone said the 5R110w takes Mercon LV, I believe Ford discontinued SP.

I am about positive you have a 4R100, but check to be sure.

One thing about merc V fluid. It has kind of and off red color and stinks right out of the bottle, so your fluid may not be as bad as you think. At those miles definitely worth changing in my opinion.

I don't think there will be a drain plug in the converter anymore. The E4OD's and early 4R100's had one, but when Ford went to the grobe clutch design, they eliminated it. BW
 
According to what I seen/heard "some" 2003s got the 5 speed (with the new 6.4 instead of the 7.3???). Supposedly all the 2004 6.0s got the 5 speed auto (or the manual). It looks like the 2004 gassers still had the 4R100.


http://www.ford-trucks.com/specs/2004-2/2004-ford-super-duty-specifications/
 
What's your favorite procedure for changing fluid and filter? The post directly below about taking a cooler line off and flushing more of the old out makes a lot of sense.
 
I really don't have a strong opinion either way.

If you take it in to have it flushed, just make sure they are changing the filter. Flush machines just tee into a cooler line and flow new fluid in and old fluid out until there is a full exchange.

The flush is a quick process, it's dropping the pan and changing the filter that takes longer. Some places just run the vehicle in, hook up, flush it and send it back out.

Kinda like taking a shower and putting dirty underwear back on...

If you like to do stuff yourself, you can drop the pan and filter, let it drain out good, replace the filter and fill it up. I'm sure you can get more of an exchange by pulling a cooler line and doing like suggested.

By doing just the pan and the filter, you can get 1/2 to 2/3 the oil changed. I would do that and then maybe in 10k do it again. Then go out to 30-40-50k, whatever floats your boat.

If you buy a filter kit that comes with one of those crappy gaskets, can it. Yours should have a reusable bonded rubber gasket. Clean it up and reuse it. BW
 
Just for thought---Back in the 60s/70s in tech training, we were told that if fluid had a burnt smell and dipstick had a varnish look, to not change fluid. New fluid would have a cleaning action that would cause breaking away or dissolving of glazing throughout transmission.
This cleaning of the internal case would not necessarily cause a problem but it would with the bands and friction plates.
This is the reason it is recommended to change fluid immediately if overheating/breakdown of fluid is suspected.
So, depending on how long it was run like this and if staining is heavy, determines whether to change now or use it.
 

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