TO-30 vs MF 135: How much difference?

Fergienewbee

Well-known Member
I have a 2btm plow I pull with a TO-30. I found a MF 135 on CL that sound like something I might be interested in--live PTO, hydraulics, recently rebuilt, good tires, etc. Tractor Data specs claim TO-30 29 HP, 19 @ drawbar, 28@PTO. 135 is listed as 45.5 HP, 33 @ drawbar, 38 @ PTO. Seller says 135 is 35 HP. How much difference will I notice with the 135?

Larry
 
My opinion, BIG difference. A 135 will do about anything. Is it 3 cyl. or 4 cyl. gas....or diesel?
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Not much normally- but a plow job that had long furrows and took 2 hours before will get down 10 minutes less so can have a cup of coffee. The furrows can be another 1/2 inch deeper setting, the rollover then improves so less half up lumps, roots full exposed and follow up disking is less bouncing, seed bed smooth and the 1/2 inch deeper means some large seeds don't get exposed when planter hits a hard spot and hops. TO-30 was slight upengined Ford 8N, the 135 think of Ford 600s with the OHV engines instead of flatheads. If you are using the old Ford N pattern 2-12 plow you can now think about the 2-14 and drop another inch deeper in ground. Sort of like taking the old IHC H plow and using the IHC 350 to pull it- can set deeper and go 1/2 mph faster. RN
 

He is pretty much right. Early 135's used the Z134 engine that was the same as the TO-35's engine. Later they went to the Continental Z145 engine which was slightly stronger but not much. The 45hp would be the diesel versions,but it is still a lot more tractor than the TO-30 even at 35hp. Better gearing,and better built all the way around,plus you get more lift capacity,better hydraulics,etc...they were one of the biggest if not the biggest selling MF tractor of all time.
 
I have owned both. Been a long time but as I remember, The TO did not have live PTO, like the 135.
I was bush hogging new ground and got part of a stump under bushog. When I pressed the clutch to stop blades, the lift wouldn't raise! I had to disconnect the driveshaft and then lift and remove stump, reconnect the driveshaft and continue. This is the way I remember this and I welcome any corrections of what I remember wrong.
I then bought a MF135 Diesel and was thrilled!
One thing that I don't do is buy a tractor or any piece of machinery that has been overhauled/rebuilt unless I know who did the work!
In the past, EVERY time I would have to correct the mistakes/shortcuts they made.
Just My opinion!
 
When I first started mowing I was using a TO 20. I think they are about the same. My TO 20 pulled a 6 ft mower ok, in dry stuff, but if it was a little wet, or thick it bogged a bit. Then I got a MF with a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel. So much better, and that tractor would not keep moving forward when I pushed the clutch. Stan
 
Not having the dual range trans and smaller engine makes a HUGE difference. I've got a TO-35 and that is close to the same as a MF-35. TO-30 is a lot less tractor.
 
In 1970 or '71 I had a Vo-Ag class of sophomores that were
self proclaimed tractor experts.I had just given a quiz that all
had flunked. I gave them a BONUS question--"What is the
most popular tractor model in the world?" Several instantly
knew the answer-IH "M",others believed the JD "4020". The
correct answer was the MF"135". That tractor had a long
production run here in the USA as well As several other
countries. (Those boys are now almost 60 yrs. Old).
 
For that second tractor you were looking for You cannot find a better fit than that 135 as it will handle everything you have now for the TO30 and do it a bit easier. It also will have the capability to run a tiller or very small snow blower as well because it will have a slower gear than the TO30 along with live PTO. The hitch is same so all mounted implements will work.
 

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