glow plug default on international 364

sbills

New User
just purchased an international 364 and having glow plug problems. I have electric to glow plug closest to battery (first plug in series) but none to the rest of plugs. Does that mean that plug is bad or do I have to weight until that plug gets hot before it lets current to rest of plugs? These plugs are hooked in series. How do I test plugs to tell if they are bad? Thanks for your help.
 
The glow-plugs are in series. If one is bad,
none will work. Had nothing to do with "heating
up." The 1st plug is probably blown; thus none
will work. If it's an original style plug -
it's easier to just pull it out and look at it
rather then try to test it. Those plugs have
open coils so if one is bad, it is easy to see.
Note those plugs run at about 1 volt each. So
if you try to bench test one - and put 12 volts
to it - it will just blow up in your face.

Bosch makes an upgraded 12 volt set of plugs
that get hooked in parallel instead of series
and work MUCH better then the OEM setup.
 
There's NO wait involved for power to flow from one to the next. If only one is bad, you can find it by connecting a test light across the connections at each glow plug while the button is depressed.

The light will light, brightly, when connected across the bad GP.

Or, disconnect them and check across each with an Ohmmeter. Good ones will have very low resistance, bad ones, infinite resistance.You can update them to more modern Bosch units. jdemaris has posted about that, I took it one step further on my 424, and added an automatic controller.

Post back, if you'd like more info from either jd or myself.
 
Here's a photo showing the 1 volt OEM type with
exposed coil (like you have) , and the new Bosch
12 volt self-limiting plug with confined coil.
a172775.jpg

a172776.jpg
 
Ok I pulled all plugs the filament on end are not broke on any of them. I hooked test light to all and the one closest to battery is only one that lit up. I was holding button for around 30 seconds air temp was about 50 outside and def didn't want to start. Am I just not holding button long enough or bad plugs?
 
I put test light on all plugs the only one that lit up was closest to battery. Is that one bad then? I pulled all plugs and the filament was not broke on any of them including the one closest to battery. What might I be looking for in a bad element?
 
The plug can be broken internally as well as clearly failed like a light bulb. If any plug goes bad (open, or open under load only) the remaining will not show power at all. If they are OK, a Volt meter, or test light will show dimmer light toward the last plug as the voltage approaches 1 or 2 volts in the last series plug. I suspect the first plug is bad as there would be visible (full brightness shown on every plug until the test found the broken plug. The light would be bright because the system is not loaded to ground and thus the plugs will pass near full voltage to the test light. Going with the newer style plugs is best policy for reliability. Jim
 
Ok thank you to all that helped me. I will apply this information today and see what I come up with thanks again.
 
JD I have been reading some of your info on other blogs about different motors having different CAV pumps in newer and older model. Do you know if my IH 364 has newer or older motor just looking for general information sorry I don't Know year or have any numbers for you at this time. Thanks for all your help i'm not much of a mechanic.
 

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