1976 John Deere 300b Backhoe Loader (Industrial)
1020 CID 135 Gas Engine (Deere, 3 cylinder)
I've been working on this tractor for a few weeks and am currently scratching my head. I bought it off of a farm in Missouri. They said they parked it 3 years ago and everything was working at the time. Then when they tried to get it going they couldn't. So now I am part of the tractor world.
When I got it home and did a compression test, one of the cylinders had no compression, one half and one full compression. I took of the head and one of the valves was burned up. I took the head to a local machine shop and had them do a valve job. The cylinders looked great, no scratches or obvious problems.
We put it on with all new gaskets and checked the compression... it was up to spec. It started right up. I let it run for 30 seconds or so and then shut it off because the hydraulic fluid was leaking in some of the hydraulic rams. Now when I try to start it the solenoid engages and the starter attempts to turn. Thinking it was a bad starter, I bought another. Turned out the right starter was twice the size of the old one. Still, same problem and the starter is still heating up. Then I took the oil pan out and took off the valve cover. Whenever I try to start the engine, everything moves slightly. I then took off the hydraulic pump in case this was preventing the engine from turning. Same problem, but I was able to verify that the crank shaft also moves slightly. At this point I think I can move the engine through its full range of motion a little bit at a time (this would take a long time since I would have to give the starter a chance to cool down every 10 attempts).
BTW: We also took out the spark plugs on the off chance it was some sort of compression thing stopping the motor. The new spark plugs still looked new. Also, when we drained the new oil, there were no metal flakes.
Every time I try to start it, I push the clutch in.
However, at this point there are several possibilities that I know of. Maybe the transmission is preventing the engine from turning. The oil pump is also still attached. Could this be preventing the engine from turning? If there is a foreign object wedged between moving parts, could manually turning the engine backwards unbind it? Has anyone experienced this type of problem? Any idea what could cause it? Would splitting the tractor be the best way to remove the transmission from the equation?
Let me know if you need pictures, video, or more information.
1020 CID 135 Gas Engine (Deere, 3 cylinder)
I've been working on this tractor for a few weeks and am currently scratching my head. I bought it off of a farm in Missouri. They said they parked it 3 years ago and everything was working at the time. Then when they tried to get it going they couldn't. So now I am part of the tractor world.
When I got it home and did a compression test, one of the cylinders had no compression, one half and one full compression. I took of the head and one of the valves was burned up. I took the head to a local machine shop and had them do a valve job. The cylinders looked great, no scratches or obvious problems.
We put it on with all new gaskets and checked the compression... it was up to spec. It started right up. I let it run for 30 seconds or so and then shut it off because the hydraulic fluid was leaking in some of the hydraulic rams. Now when I try to start it the solenoid engages and the starter attempts to turn. Thinking it was a bad starter, I bought another. Turned out the right starter was twice the size of the old one. Still, same problem and the starter is still heating up. Then I took the oil pan out and took off the valve cover. Whenever I try to start the engine, everything moves slightly. I then took off the hydraulic pump in case this was preventing the engine from turning. Same problem, but I was able to verify that the crank shaft also moves slightly. At this point I think I can move the engine through its full range of motion a little bit at a time (this would take a long time since I would have to give the starter a chance to cool down every 10 attempts).
BTW: We also took out the spark plugs on the off chance it was some sort of compression thing stopping the motor. The new spark plugs still looked new. Also, when we drained the new oil, there were no metal flakes.
Every time I try to start it, I push the clutch in.
However, at this point there are several possibilities that I know of. Maybe the transmission is preventing the engine from turning. The oil pump is also still attached. Could this be preventing the engine from turning? If there is a foreign object wedged between moving parts, could manually turning the engine backwards unbind it? Has anyone experienced this type of problem? Any idea what could cause it? Would splitting the tractor be the best way to remove the transmission from the equation?
Let me know if you need pictures, video, or more information.
