OT--Auto Tire Rotation

Jiles

Well-known Member
I cannot get a straight agreeable answer as to the proper way to rotate radial tires. Years ago, they had to be left on the same side or the cords would break.
My owners manual states to rotate front to rear, and that's what I do. This form of rotation just doesn't make sense to me.
Half the tire dealers I talk to say to crisscross, unless they have rotation marked.
Evidently, different tire manufactures and different auto manufacturers have determined that a certain rotation pattern is needed.
Is there any way to know for sure?
 
The owner's manual in my 2012 Automobile recommends a conventional X-type rotation but I do a simple front-to-back as I do it myself and this is easier.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 03:33:49 10/01/14) I cannot get a straight agreeable answer as to the proper way to rotate radial tires. Years ago, they had to be left on the same side or the cords would break.
My owners manual states to rotate front to rear, and that's what I do. This form of rotation just doesn't make sense to me.
Half the tire dealers I talk to say to crisscross, unless they have rotation marked.
Evidently, different tire manufactures and different auto manufacturers have determined that a certain rotation pattern is needed.
Is there any way to know for sure?

I'd love to hear the answers to this one as well! I criss crossed. Dad said that was wrong, so I just rotated front to back for awhile. Took it to the dealer for the 30K check up and they criss crossed. I haven't heard a good reason for one over the other. Owner's manual says to criss cross.

I would guess years ago there was a reason not to criss cross and perhaps new tire technology has made that requirement obsolete?
 
You're not going to get a straight agreeable answer. Ask any two people and you'll get at least two, if not 3-5 different answers!

In the grand scheme it doesn't matter. Do it however you feel like doing it. IMHO the tires do plenty of rotating as I drive, and I do "rotate" the tires twice a year when I put the snows on and take them back off.
 
I rotate front to back. Might be from experience with one directional tires; and I don't like the idea of running a tire in two directions.

The main reason for rotation is to even out tread wear.

I don't know if one method is better than another.



Main thing is to rotate them and to do it at regular intervals. 5,000 to 7,000 miles works for me.
 
Front to back. Back to opposite front. On my old cars I never
rotate the tires. I put about 500 miles a year on them. They will
age out before they ever wear uneven.
 
(quoted from post at 13:07:03 09/30/14) You're not going to get a straight agreeable answer. Ask any two people and you'll get at least two, if not 3-5 different answers!

In the grand scheme it doesn't matter. Do it however you feel like doing it. IMHO the tires do plenty of rotating as I drive, and I do "rotate" the tires twice a year when I put the snows on and take them back off.

I think that it would be very interesting to see four DIFFERENT ways to rotate.
 
Alot of times I will buy 2 new tires at a time. Ussually rotate left to right. Rotate to back when I buy two more (always keeping the better newer tires on the front). Works good for me. Spaces out the cost of an entire set. I think the big key is, you need to do what works the best for you, and what you are doing should factor into that decision. I ussually run tires till they are gone, no miles left. As long as I don't have to deal with to many flats. Probly wouldn't work for most people.
 
My Tundra manual says to rotate front to back if only 4 tires are in the rotation. If the spare is used in the rotation, then use the criss-cross rotation pattern. I've seen diagrams in different manuals how to do the criss-cross pattern, but the diagram is not in my manual.

If the vehicle does not have a good spare of the same size, the front to back is the only rotation pattern available. I've never includes the spare in the rotation. Tundra will be 12 years old in January; spare has never been on a wheel.
 
Just the fact that you rotate them in any fashion puts you ahead
of most people. I don't think it matters if you change direction,
unless they are directional. When I used to work on semis we
would break in sets of 8 steers on the drives for a couple months.
Seemed to reduce the cupping quite a bit.
 
My 2011 F250 has fronts go straight back and rear criss cross to front. I think my 2010 Sienna is the same way also.
 
Keep your wheels aligned and drive right and you never have
to rotate your tires if on shows uneven wear the correct the
problem your tires will last much longer. cars with front wheel
drive the rear tires will out last the car replace them when they
get weather checked they will out last 3 to 4 front tires.
Walt. I have 94K on my Ranger I have never rotated the tires
right now I have Michealin and they are evenly worn front and
rear except for the recall tire that shredded.
 
Almost ALL tire manufacturers use a "modified X"
rotation. Cross the NON-drive axle and the other
two go straight (either forward or backward). A
4WD pickup is treated as rear wheel drive.
Cupping (uneven wear) occurs on the free rolling
tires, so you want them turned around during a
rotation. The forces of the drive axle will smooth
them if turned in the opposite direction. We
recommend rotation every 6-8,000 miles. After 4
rotations every tire has been to every corner. We
don't consider a 5 tire rotation as there are so
few vehicles that have a real spare tire.
Been in the tire business over 35 years and this is our policy. Works great!
 
I have a ford f 450 and with the dual rear wheels everyone you ask has a different answer. I just take them back to where I bought them and let them handle it, this way it stays under warranty.
Tom
 
Jiles,
I have no answer to your question, but will ask
the next trip to the Tire Barn. For $50 Tire Barn
mounts 4 tires, new stims, balances, rotates my
tires every 6k for free for the life of tires.
They repair tires for free and road hazzard is
included. I feel it's a bargan. My GM dealer is
next door, so every other oil change I stop off
at the barn. It's cheaper for the dealer to
change my oil, keep waranty in tack. So I see no
need service my vehicles anymore and rotate my
tires.
george
 
I do sever hundred a year it they are not directional ties I...

X the front to the rear..

Rear go to the front and stay on the side they were ran on till it comes time to rotate again then they get X to the rear...

WHY,, tires have memory and you will get into issues if you X the rear to the front...

I like to rotate every 6K and note any wear issues. Keep a tab of issues and correct.
 
(quoted from post at 01:58:15 10/01/14) Almost ALL tire manufacturers use a "modified X"
rotation. Cross the NON-drive axle and the other
two go straight (either forward or backward). A
4WD pickup is treated as rear wheel drive.
Cupping (uneven wear) occurs on the free rolling
tires, so you want them turned around during a
rotation. The forces of the drive axle will smooth
them if turned in the opposite direction. We
recommend rotation every 6-8,000 miles. After 4
rotations every tire has been to every corner. We
don't consider a 5 tire rotation as there are so
few vehicles that have a real spare tire.
Been in the tire business over 35 years and this is our policy. Works great!

oleblu---- Do you feel this holds true for[b:cd7a7067b7] ALL [/b:cd7a7067b7]brands of tires that do not have the designated rotation?
 
Well, since I'm a Manufacturer's Rep for Hunter
Engineering, I'm a big fan of our Road Force
balancer. It has a mode called "straight track"
that detects the rolling resistance and pull in
each tire, and then tells you where to put them
on the car for the smoothest ride and least
pull. That, along with regular alignments (on a
Hunter aligner, of course!) will get the best
wear from your tires. I have a late model heavy
SUV with those short sidewall hard tires, and
this process made a world of difference. 32k on
it now, and it looks like I'll get 50k out of
the tires. The tire shops said I wouldn't get
25k out of them. Fortunately I have all of the
equipment to do this, so it doesn't cost me
anything!
 
The non drive axle will cup the tires first and the worst. Cross to the drive axle and move the others straight. Of course this will not apply to directional tires and wheels. 4X4s move rear to front and cross the front to the rear. IMO The reason they told us not to cross tires, was they were building junk radial tires and had to blame it on something.
 
I do like our Roadforce balancer, but, I guess due to age, cannot find a static mode for clamp style weights. Any ideas?
 
I got michlens for my full size GMC truck from Tire Barn, they have 60k+ on them. I have them rotate and balance them every 6k, which tire barn do for free. Looks like I'll get at least 80k before I need to replace them. Wonder what kind of machine they use? I've never had anything done to the supension yet. I have 3 tool boxes full of tools on truck all the time plus sometimes pull a trailer with truck.
 
I have no doubt Hunter makes good equipment as others may also.
Problem is not many can "read" what wear patterns your tire has and adjust accordingly.
Everywhere I take my cars they all say it's within specs. Well the specs. have a pretty wide range too.
Not much is adjustable and then you have to go with aftermarket shim kits which some are plastic and may or may not work out ? Most won't take the extra time to do any of this.
So I just try and keep the tires rotated and inflated and just watch the edges wear away.
 
My Goodyear Wrangler RT/S still had 9/32 tread
left with 62,000 miles on them when I sold the
truck (98 f150). Only ever rotated front to rear
every 10,000 miles.
 
I have mine rotated every 10,000 miles and they rebalance them at same time. For what they charge I can't mess with them.
 

I have michlens on my truck and get 80k miles. I'm on my 3rd set and I never rotate them. I think it's a waste of time and money.
 
Mike, you are correct. "In spec" is ok, but the goal should be to get the alignment as close as possible to ideal. Just about any car can have it's alignment improved to make the tires last longer. The shops that say "in the green is good enough" are not working for you. There is a well known national tire group that will not allow their employees to adjust anything but toe when they do an alignment. They have our best equipment, but won't use it properly. Also, there is nothing wrong with using the proper shim kit to correct an alignment issue, so long as it's installed correctly. There are brand new cars that need to be shimmed so as not to wear tires.
 
ASEguy, If you have the current Road Force with touch screen, go to the bottom right corner of the screen, tap the "smart weight" icon to disable it, and two tires will pop up. The one on the left will have only one weight showing. Tap on that tire picture, and you're in static mode. Tap the other to return it to normal. If you have an earlier version without the touch screen, let me know, and I'll take you through that procedure.
 
(quoted from post at 13:58:36 10/01/14) I do like our Roadforce balancer, but, I guess due to age, cannot find a static mode for clamp style weights. Any ideas?

Dunno why you would want to use static mode unless you want to do them again for free.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top