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Farmall A with L59 belly mower began running poorly?

D

dej(Jed)

Well-known Member
Went to mow the lawn yesterday and had problems with the tractor losing pwer and stalling? I flushed the fuel system and added fresh. Then it was ok for a bit, but still stalled out in heavy grass? Added more fresh gasoline and went at it again.
It would run okay, but not like normal. The intervals betwen stalling got longer, but it would still choke out under a load. Pulling the choke did not help at all. Could old plugs make it run that poorly? The plugs have been in there about 10 years now and it mows about 4 hrs a week.
 
Process of elimination, start replacing things
until you come up with solution.

Look at the plugs, tell the story on what's going
on inside engine. Check all the normal things,
compression is a good start.

The L59 was built for an IH C. The farmal A may be
a little under powered. Didn't most A's have a 4 ft
mower, not a 5?
 
The L59 is not too big for the A. Sounds like the coil is breaing down when it gets warm. Next time before you start the engine check spark to see how good it is. nThen when it quits after tractor is warm check again to see if it is a good as when cold. That will then be coil or just a condenser. If you do replace the condenser get an ECHLIN or Blue Streak lots of off brand condensers are junk now days and do cause replacement problems.
 

If I restart the tractor immediately after it stalls, it start right up and runs fine until the next stall?
 
Might be unlikely, but first be sure your governor's not binding up - it's a free and easy check.

There's often not much room between the linkage rod from the governor to the carb - it can rub on the block. When that happens, it can cause intermittent, hard to diagnose problems like you're having.
 
If it restarts immediately the first thing to come to my mind is a piece of junk in the fuel system getting in the way of an orifice possibly the carb jet, and falling back away from it when the engine stops. I'm fighting the same thing with a tractor that has some junk in the gas tank. Jim
 
Dad had a cub with 4 ft. He also had a mag issue.
Run until it got hot, then die. I disconnected the
mag coil wires, and hung a 6 volt coil outside
mag. Worked until my dad died and tractor was
sold.

I think farmall A's have about half the power of a
C. I have a C, it came with a 5 ft. I changed it
over to a 6 ft.

Change plugs, wires, points, cond, rotor and cap
for starters.
 
Sure as heck its not the mower size! Good grief. When was the last time anyone heard"My mower got too big for my tractor after many years of good service and it suddenly started to stall." Yeah right...
Fuel flow first. Kids throw something in the gas tank?
 
Try pulling the drain plug in the carb bowl. It should freeflow gas until the bowl empties, then slow to a smaller stream. If it slows to a drip or stops there is a restriction in the fuel supply. Could be a screen at the carb inlet fitting, sticking needle, trash at the seat, tank vent.

Might also look at the point gap and distributor shaft side play. New plugs couldn't hurt, they can do some strange things.
 
(quoted from post at 07:23:33 08/12/14) Dad had a cub with 4 ft. He also had a mag issue.
Run until it got hot, then die. I disconnected the
mag coil wires, and hung a 6 volt coil outside
mag. Worked until my dad died and tractor was
sold.

I think farmall A's have about half the power of a
C. I have a C, it came with a 5 ft. I changed it
over to a 6 ft.

Change plugs, wires, points, cond, rotor and cap
for starters.
Click to expand...

Farmall C is around 20 HP
Farmall A is around 16 HP

The L59 is the appropriate Woods deck for an A. There's a bunch of them out there.

Back on topic, I'm thinking carb. I would pull it off, flush it out and check the screen on the sediment bowl while I was at it.

K
 
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