756 w/310 German antifreeze in oil source

I have my 310 German Diesel tore down due to having spun a rod bearing. When I drained the oil I noticed some antifreeze in the oil. It was green antifreeze, not clear water. There was about 1/2 cup or a bit more antifreeze. After a week of thinking about it, I figured it was a cavitation issue with a sleeve, I then prepared myself (and my wallet) for a full teardown and overhaul. I now have the engine tore down right to the bare block, however the sleeves are still in the block. I filled the water jacket full of antifreeze 2 days ago and placed clean cardboard on the floor under the block which is on the engine stand. After 2 days, there is no antifreeze on the cardboard. I am wondering where else the antifreeze could have entered the oil at? or is the reason for no leakage due to the system not being pressurized?
I am wondering what I should do now. Should I still remove and replace the sleeves being that I have it tore down? or should I leave the sleeves in and look elsewhere for the point of antifreeze entry into the oil. Where else should I be looking for leakage? Can this happen in the head? I understand the engine oil cooler can cause this as well. Any other places that I should be looking at closer??

I also posted this on the Farmall forum as this is more specific there, however I always get a better response here. Thanks for any help that you may be able to offer

Magnaflux is not so much a process as it is an insurance against building a motor with a cracked componenet.Yes it could be in the head . Look to see if it was at the head gasket surface .Maybe some telltale signs.

Yes.Pull and replace the sleeves.Do it right.It will leak when there is real pressure in there.Just 'static' wont leak.

Leak could be at the head, head gasket or under pressure (same as the other guy said). As to pull the sleeves it's your call- do you want to do it once? do you want to do it right? How do you feel about doing it over? Yes it'll cost you more to do it right (sleeves, crack check head & block, turn crank) but when your done you'll know what you have and know if you treat it right you shouldn't have to go back in for a long long time.

Diesels are expensive, unforgiving beasts! Take no shortcuts or you'll be going back in there again!

What did the rest of the oil look like? Was is emulsified with anti freeze? If there was clean antifreeze sitting in the bottom of the pan (before the head was removed) and the rest of the oil looked normal, that means the antifreeze got in there while it was sitting, not running. When the rod bearing spun, possibly the piston pounded the bottom of the head, started the head gasket leaking, or even damaged the head, don't know how bad it got...

If the oil was emulsified with antifreeze, it was getting in the oil before the bearing failure, and probably caused the failure.

Again, test everything, assume nothing! Now would be a good time to pressure test the oil cooler, put air pressure in the oil port and submerge the whole thing in water, watch for bubbles.

I hope you have a repair manual, if not that will be the most important purchase you'll make! Somewhere in this overhaul, you'll get a machine shop involved. Don't let them assemble anything! Double check their work, measure everything yourself or have a second party do it for you! Finding a reputable machine shop is the hardest part of the whole ordeal, second only to paying for everything, and the goal is to do that only once!!!

Stay with us, ask questions. Hope all goes well!

Pull your sleeves-check your liner packing o ring seals.They probably are deteriorated.When the block heats and cools may when they leaked, but if it's clear,then it did not mix with oil for very long.I think it is a slow seepage from the packing o rings.
If the oil cooler fails it usually allows oil into the coolant, but not the coolant in the oil.Could be head gasket or head,but I think the antifreeze would have mixed with the oil. Was the tractor over heated? That would cause the o rings to fail.Besides you are right there-no reason ever not to pull the liners when you are that deep.Mark

my 66 706 with german diesel was doing the same thing in 94. I replaced the O-rings on the sleeves and have not had anymore trouble.

Be sure to have the block boiled out or you will be back in it again. anti freeze gets in the pores of the case blocks

Had softplug on top of cyl head rust thru on one.

It"s an early Dubuque/Mannhiem/Saran engine with a single o"ring sleeve seal.
The later sleeves have more o"rings.
Letting the corrosion inhibitor expire in the coolant is quick death to a wet sleeve diesel.
Check the Deere web site for their parts book.
I would assume you are in Europe as only the 510 and 710 were officially exported to Canada.
A later model 179 three cylinder engine will bolt in if the block is rotten.