Gas stove testing help needed

Zachary Hoyt

Well-known Member
I bought this stove last week and intend to put it in the kitchen soon if it works. It will replace one that is just like it except from the 30s (we were told). This one was made in 1986 and parts are still available for it, plus it will be easier to clean. The stove was sitting in an old diner that had been made into a bar and has not been used in a few years, the propane tanks had been removed previously so I could not test it there. It is missing the knobs but the valves are turn well and I have cleaned it up a bit. I would like to test it before moving the current stove out and this one in as this stove weighs 850# and I assume the old one is similarly heavy. I am wondering if I can use the little propane bottle I use on my propane torch or if I need a bigger tank, and what kind of regulator I will need. As I understand it I will also need a hose to go from the regulator to the flare fitting on the back of the stove. If anyone can advise me how to proceed I will be very grateful as I don't know much about gas other than how to adjust the air and the pilots on the stove.
Zach
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I would use a 20# tank with a regulator but if you are not familiar with this type or work you may want to have some check it over for you
 
They don"t really make a regulator that would fit on a little bottle, you would have to put some adapters together. Also the tank might not have enough volume to operate the oven, I agree with using a 20 pounder. You need a standard low pressure regulator, 13 in. wc.
 
I tried to fire a pool heater with a small bottle. There was not enough vapor space in the bottle to supply the capacity that the heater needed. It worked well with a 150 gal tank. Just something to think about.
 
Thank you all very much. I don't have a tank but I will get one, and a low pressure regulator and a hose to fit. I hadn't known about the low pressure vs other types, so that will be handy. Looks like TSC has them and there are a couple more local places I can try too.
Zach
 
First off is this stove setup for propane or natural gas big difference. If it is propane you probly need a 20lb bottle a regulater one off a bbq grill will work, a hose that connects to stove. Good luck
 
First off you need to do some clean up. I would pressure wash the crap out and then start in. If this Garland unit is your dream then start with a new regulator. The one in the picture looks broken. They are ment to handle only 14wc. That is about 1/3 of a pound air pressure. From your main propain tank you need a high pressure step down regulator first. I would replace the thermostats , the safteys , and the thermal couples. The valves in these oven can be greased with high temp valve grease from a parts supply. You want to look up Franklin Machine for the parts. Also Oven supply. I work for the Caesars casinos in Atlantic City and have fixed boat loads of these and other ovens. Please clean things really well and then start in on it. As you go ....get back to us and I will try to guide you through. By the way....you must have a hood over these and your insurance may have a problem because this a commercial unit. The "Home" units have electronic ignition systums on them. You may also need new door spring too. I hope you have a good little digital camera so you can show us where you are in this job .. GOOD luck and keep it going. Jeffcat
 
Good advice here already. A BBQ will be fine for testing.

To expand on the regulator thing: With a regular stove and appliances there's typically one big regulator on the tank outside, a single stage system, and then a 5/8 copper or 1/2 black pipe going to the house. With a high BTU demand like a giant stove or tankless water heater you would have to up to 3/4 copper or 1" black pipe to deliver enough BTU at low pressure. With the dual stage, regulator on the tank drops pressure to something like 10 PSI (IIRC, could be wrong on the number) and then second regulator right by the house then drops it to low pressure for the appliances. Then you can run a 3/8 line from the tank to the house.

Since we've lived at this place, I've moved the tank once and re-done the line twice for remodeling. When I went to a tankless water heater I had to up to a 1" black pipe from the tank to the house. After closing the garage in the water heater got moved and I changed to the dual stage. I was able to consolidate all the gas feed to one wall but it was a longer run from the tank. The dual stage allowed me to run a continuous piece of 3/8 copper to the house. Now no concerns for corrosion or leaky pipe joints.
 

That one looks like the one that I took out of our church last year, except that ours looked almost like new. It had a bad thermostat and they were NLA. Verify that you can get replacement T'stats before you go further.
 

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