copper tube for tractor fule line?

My Dad s got some copper tube thats the right size for fule line, and he's wondering if there is any reason he shouldnt/cant use it on a tractor for a fule line?

One hes thinking of trying it on is a Ford 801 that with rubber hose has a weird fule line config, and he thinks the copper would work more like the long gone original steel line.
 
You shouldn't because copper will work harden with vibration and crack causing an extremely unsafe fuel leak when you least expect it.

A better choice would be steel tubing or copper nickel tubing.
 
I beleive the reason that copper is not used as fuel line is that copper can crack after a being exposed to vibration for a long time. steel line is the proper way to do it
 
Like Allan says, if you can get a loop in it, it will out last you.
As for the vibration, look at all the antique air compressors. They all had copper coming off of them.
 
Copper will be just fine ive seen where copper was used and it had been on there for many yrs. Copper has been used lots of places that are subject to heat and vibration and just work.
 
MikeM below is correct.

That said, on a vintage tractor that is not used regularly daily, a copper line will likely outlast you.

A better choice and most likely a less time consuming fabrication job would be a prefab brake line from your local auto parts store.

FWIW: The OEM fuel line on your Dad's 801 series Ford is a two piece steel/rubber assembly. It is still available from CNH but expensive. Contrary to popular belief, the OEM line and routing will not cause vapor lock.

Dean
 
I was having a vapor locking problem with my Jubilee. The steel line was clamped to the enging head. I cut off about 4 inches off each end of steel line and clamped gas hose to each end. Ran gas line back away from engine. It has worked well for about 3 years now.

Then I installed a gas solenoid valve because carb leaked gas on barn floor. pic from a post on YT Ford.
Gas soleniod on Jubilee
 
Copper tubing will fatigue and break. How soon is hard to say; the 801 series doesn't have a lot of vibration. But if the line breaks suddenly, it could dump a lot of fuel on the top of the engine where it could run down the right-hand side to be ignited by ignition sparks. I'd say there's fairly small risk of this happening, but it is a possibility.

The rubber fuel line is not original, but it is common to cut the fuel line to work on the engine, then splice it back with rubber. My tractor was done that way, but I eventually replaced the hose because I could get fuel hose that would hold up.

The correct way to do it is to use steel line. Brake line will work fine, but you'll probably need to cut the line to length, which means you'll need a double-flare tool to put the correct flare on the steel tubing.
 
Actually, the two piece steel/"rubber" fuel line is, indeed, OEM equipment on 800/1 series tractors.

Dean
 
I would use a braided hose with swivel nuts. They're easy to make using reusable fittings. Hal
a163344.jpg
 
I realize pictures can be deceiving, but the on-line New Holland parts breakdown shows it as a single-piece line, presumably steel. There are several different part numbers, so I suppose one of them is as you describe.
 
Copper lines are commonly used for applications where vibration is THE main concern... its far more plyable than steel line and is therefore less likely to break... it isnt normally used in exterior applications because it oxidizes quickly and it will also detiorate quickly when/where ever it comes into contact with most other metals except brass or stainless.

If the tractor is parked outside you should not use copper but if its parked inside... copper line will outlast you and the tractor.
 
Your theory about copper being susceptible to corrosion is nonsense, too. One of the most corrosion-resistant alloys available is silicon bronze: 98 percent copper, 2 percent silicon. (Silicon is galvanically inert and is added only for strength.)
 
Actually Mark I have seen compressors with copper lines, usually older ones and if it does crack its not like you have gas leaking out onto a hot manifold, I have a 6 stage compressor at work that uses copper to connect the stages and intercoolers together, thick wall of course. Once it gets to the final stages it changes to stainless steel. But everything is secured so it doesn't dance around.

Lance,
As far as vibration is concerned, we use copper exclusively in our refrigeration skids and without the proper vibration isolator connecting to the compressors to the rest of the system it would crack the copper every couple of months. If the tubing isn't secured properly and allowed to move around or vibrate it will work harden and eventually crack.

On the corrosion side, once copper tarnishes it generally stops or slows to the point it is not even noticeable unless there is a galvanic cell setup by a another metal. Ever see copper flashing on a roof? It will generally outlast the roof.
 
[b:418df0dfb5]"Ever see an air compressor come from the factory with copper lines?"[/b:418df0dfb5]

Can't say that I have, but have seen and owned many air conditioners that had copper lines and most all them had a loop.
 
Years ago most gas kitchen stoves were connected with corrugated copper but there were so many explosions and fires from the copper cracking and leaking that most codes outlawed them and require stainless steel connections. Same thought applies with gasoline fuel lines.
 
use what ya got..
copper is fine with a loop. (easier than steel on and off too)
have nothing, buy steel brake line, dirt cheap.
If you run a rubber jumper, get good stuff. Some of the 'fuel' rated new rubber hose nowadays is a bad joke.

I like that steel braided hose idea. Had that on all my Drag cars.(12 inch total, rule limit on bare rubber fuel hose if I remember right)
tough stuff, super easy on and off, and routing.

Whatever you use, fuel lines are high on the 'check it regularly'
list here......
 
Not sure I've ever seen copper used from the factory for fuel line, must be a reason. Seen it done as a replacement, and it seemed to work. I would not use rubber (neoprene) if at all avoidable.

One thing that has not been mentioned is the conductivity of copper verses steel. Since most tractors have updraft carbs, it is necessary to route the fuel line over, under and around the exhaust manifold. The copper, being more conductive, will be slightly more susceptible to vapor lock, the fuel boiling in the line.
 
Caterpillar used copper fuel line well into the 80-s. If you buy a replacement line you get a coil of copper. Works well on Caterpillar applications and I wouldn't use anything else. I remember copper lines on an air compressor. I remember changing them. Maybe the answer lies more in the application than in the material. I for one would use the Ford style line. Designed for the application and cheap insurance to avoid a fire.
 
Yes, you're right. I remember the copper fuel line on my dad's old D7-U2, and I assume the line on his D8-14A was also copper. Those fuel lines were huge, at least 1/2"; routing a steel line that size would have been no fun.
 

Tell him to just take the weird one out, cut out the weird part, replace it with new rubber fuel line with hose clamps. Good for another fifty years. Well maybe it only twenty that one of mine has been that way.
 

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