Lots Of Questions!

Bryce Frazier

Well-known Member
Hi all, well I have a few questions for you this evening!

1st of all, how in the world do I remove the starter from my 2N Ford???

2nd. I have been offered two tractors, both were (we are thinking) bought new by the current owner. BOTH are in Oregon, about 5 hours from my house...

Here is the skinny:

We have a 10,000 GVW car hauler, and unfortunately, won't be able to get both on the trailer at the same time, and we are NOT going 2 times!! I might have my drives license by then, and if that is the case, then dad and I could both diver a truck and trailer, but for now, that isn't the case! So, which one should I try to get, be honest, and feel free to pick favorites!

John Deere B, Factory ordered loader, not running, that is ALL I know, but I will learn more soon.

Oliver 70, runs/drives good, again, thats all I know...

Their son lives up here by us, and is the one that rebuilds my engines with me, and HIS family offered the tractors to ME for scrap weight!

Sooo, I personally have never been around Olivers, and there are VERY few in my area. One guy in our club has a really nice Oliver 60, and it is a cute tractor, but it seems to be pretty small? I saw that the 70 is rated at 30 horse, are the straight 6's hard on fuel?

Next, which tractor would be more valuable if restored? I know that B's seem to be a dime a dozen, but what about if it one had a completely restored, factory installed loader, AND it had all of the paper work to prove it? Would it be worth anything, or am I just dreaming!!! :)

I am kind of liking the idea of the Oliver, especially if it has a narrow front... Sounds like it would be a nice tractor to use. Did they have any kind of 3 point, or lift?

Thanks for your time guys!!! Bryce
 
I'll answer your ? on the 2N starter. Unbolt it from the tractor, slide towards the front of the tractor and QUICKLY put a nut on at least one of the bolts to keep the starter from coming apart (don't ask how I know this). Then you have to lower the front while lifting the rear and slide and jimmy and jangle until you find just the right path and out she comes . Going back in is just as hard!!!
 
Well, IF both of the tractors were narrow fronts, we MIGHT be able to, but with a loader on one of them, it would be really tight...

Both of the tractors are probably around 4500-5000 lbs. and the trailer it's self is 2000 lbs, so we can only haul 8000 lbs of tractor, so we would be over weight...
Bryce
 
if they are worth it and at only scrap price I would make the second trip.depends on the tires and parts if nothing else, should make it worth a days wages?
 
Take the loader off and put it in the truck box. I do not believe those tractors are that heavy. Can someone help us out with the weight of those tractors?
 
What town in Oregon? I live in Yamhill County and would be glad to help any way I can. When I was your age a couple farmers taught me a ton about farming and tractors and life. I've never forgotten those lessons so sing out if you need something.
Tim
 
A tractor that runs and drives for scrap price is probably a good buy. But one that's stuck with poor tires I would not drive 5 hours after if you gave it to me.
 
If you are getting them to restore for a profit, don't. IMHO, neither of those tractors would be overly valuable restored. The B might have a slight value edge due to popularity. An Oliver 70 is not a very useful tractor today, no hydraulics, no live PTO, and an obselete Continental engine that is nearly impossible to get parts for and spendy when you find them. In my area, a fully restored 70 will only sell for about $1500. Oliver 70s are only restored by love or family connection, and this is coming from an Oliver man. At least the Deere has ready parts availability. I know how it is to be young and excited about another tractor, I have been there. But for a 10 hour round trip, they need to be free, or nearly so. Just my $.02.
 

I would go with the, 70 very sweet tractor. It is very up to date for it's time, parts are very easy to get from Maibach in Creston Ohio. best of all, If you get it restored and take it to shows, there will not be a dozen just like it.
 
Get a trailer that is 20 ft with 5 foot beaver tail deck over axles and gooseneck. Very little you can't haul with that setup.
 
If you have enough truck, rent or borrow a bigger trailer.

To add to what Kornfused said about your starter, if someone
has replaced the block drain with a longer one you may have
to remove it to get the starter out. That drain is about where
you want to tilt the start to get it to lift out OVER the flywheel.
Tilt it slightly down and toward the block in that area.
 
Don't know where you got your info, but I have 6 Oliver 70's and 3 have the 3 gear Contintel engines I can get most parts for through my NAPA store,
 
I was talking internal parts. From what I know, they are ok if they run, but rebuilding gets expensive.
 
I'd go with what Mike said. Or load the dead one and start driving the other one. When they got home head back for the other and load to save the time. Or load the dead one and pull it with the running one. ive hours by car is a long tractor ride though.
 
(quoted from post at 10:40:47 07/12/14) I was talking internal parts. From what I know, they are ok if they run, but rebuilding gets expensive.[/quot

I rebuilt the motor in my 70. Maibach had everything I needed on the shelf.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top