Rust Converters

I've personally never found one that truly, permanently stops the rust. Spray on the rust converter and a top coat as directed, and it's rusty again in a few months.
 
They probably work in some situations, but only as a temporary "band aid" fix.

It's hard to beat sandblasting or simply cutting the rusted metal out and welding new in.
 
I have used Ospho for several years, if its used as directed it will stop the rust.
When I started to use it aboot 40 years ago, I had a pickum up truck that the rear bumper would rust even if I sandblasted it and primered and painted.
When I started using Ospho as directed it didn't no more rustum again.
 
It has worked pretty good for me if I keep in mind a few things-
Remove oil and dirt first
Wire brush thoroughly
Use only when the metal and air temperature is warm (above 60*F)
I use the brush-on type converter anywhere I can and only use the spray in hard to reach places
After first coat is black, put on a thin second coat to get an even finish.
Wait 24 hours then paint with a solvent-based paint (not water-based like latex)
I have had good success with Permatex brand brush on type but others are OK too. -Will
 
When I worked on the offshore oil production platforms, we used Ospho. It is basically a diluted Phosphoric acid. There aren't many enviroments that are worse for causing rust.
 
I have used Ospho with excellent results for over 10 years.. I tried other and still return to Ospho 2 light coats for great results.
 
I use Concrete Etching Compound which is nothing more than phosphoric acid. I get it for around $18 a gallon and it lasts a long time. I dilute it about 10:1 so a little goes a long way. No need to buy the expensive stuff when this works better and costs less. Mike
 
Don't know ???

Tried a couple of brands on spots on cars.

Didn't seem to last any longer with or without it when trying to touch up rust spots.
 

The ones that are phosphoric acid based really do as claimed when used as directed. When I was sandblasting my dump truck body I went to pick up paint and the guy behind the counter told me that I needed to "acid wash" it. That is when I started using the real stuff. The acid combines with the residual rust to form inert iron phosphate. It is especially important to use if the metal is pitted. If you don't, it is a matter of when, not if, the residual specs of rust in the pits grow enough to bubble the paint.
 

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