chain saw chain sharpening questions?

ill admit, im not the sharpest chain in the toolbox,, lol. what makes a chainsaw bar, want to cut at a curve vs straight thru the log? this will be the first sharpening on new chain and i would like to learn how to do it properly. any advice would be great! thanks!
 
If it cuts a curve, normally that means the teeth on one side are dull. If you file it with a guide...do all the teeth on one side, then do the other side. Make VERY sure that you file the same amount of strokes on every tooth. That should help you. Dale
 
I had that problem when I was first learning to sharpen saws by hand. In my experience it was caused by having the teeth on one side longer than those on the other. I would check the length of your teeth with a caliper, ideally they will all be the same. Unequal raker height can also be a problem but I didn't run into that so much myself. Once I had a bar that was so worn the drive links were bottoming out and it would not cut straight, you can rule this out if when your chain is tight the base of the side links are riding on the sides of the bar as they normally would. If you can see a gap under them you need a new bar.
Zach
 
Make sure you use a chain file the correct size (5/32, 3/16,13/64 OR 7/32) and stroke angle. As already stated, use the same amount of strokes on each cutter. I always flip my bar over every 3rd sharpening, too.
 
First is a dull chain but only on one side of the chain. Second guess would be wrong gauge of chain or the width of the drive tooth. If its smaller that the bar is rated for it will not stay straight in the bar under cutting pressure. Third guess would be a worn out bar
 
I agree with the other replies. I cheat though, and use a sharpening stone in my Dremel tool, because I'm not great with a file. Before I got proficient enough, I also used to take the chain to a shop for sharpening about 1/2 way through it's life to get it straightened out.
 
As others have said many possible causes.

1) Chain dull more on one side than the other.
2) Unevenly sharpened chain. (different length cutters)
3) Bar worn more on one side than the other. Or just plain worn in the groove
4) Wrong gauge chain. .050 chain in a .063 bar.

I'm bad with a file myself. I always had to take the chain for a professional sharpen every 3-4 filings. I finally bought my own chain grinder. I can sharpen my own chain, get it even, and grind off as much or as little as needed. I also have up to 10 chains for each saw. I use them all then have a chain grinding session.
 
I agree. Same strokes on each tooth and be careful of the angle ( a guide helps). If still not sharp after 3 strokes per tooth, do 2 more on EACH tooth. One side then the other.
 
If the chain is properly sharpened and everything else is right the bar groove clearance is unimportant. Stihl distributor cut the sides off of a bar and the saw still ran straight under ideal conditions.
 
It's because one side of the chain is closer to the ideal shape than the other. It may be raker height, tooth angle, sharpness of the teeth, or any thing that causes one side of a chain to be closer to ideal than the other. A chain grinder comes much closer than hand filing to the ideal, so that's what I use. Unless something has been hit, a very small amount of chain needs to be removed to restore it. If done right, less than .010" needs to be removed to restore sharpness. Just my opinion, gained by heating with wood for 40 years.
 
Usually, as others have said, you have an poorly sharpened chain. I've been selling Husqvarna roller type file guides for years and everyone loves them. Takes most of the trouble out of sharpening.

Just FYI and not to argue with anyone- cutter length shouldn't really make all that much difference IF the rakers are filed to each tooth. Yes, it's nice if all the teeth are the same length, but in real life it doesn't happen. Use a raker gauge and flat file and cut the rakers right and length isn't a big factor.
 

First off let me say when it comes to freehand fileing a saw chain I STINK AT IT.I got one of those units that clamp to the bar, put the correct file in and have at it.
A few things can cause your saw to cut on a bias.A bent bar will but you will be able to see that by sighting down the length of the bar.Less than equal height rails will cause the chain to lean to one side.The teeth on one side are somewhat sharper than those on the other.Depth gauge height should be very close to correct for it's coresponding tooth.
A little off on just a few depth gauges on each side won't have a big affect(they cancel each other out) on the cut but several on one side will have you gritting your teeth.The same applies to the saw teeth.
 
The main reason for a chain cutting to one side is that it's dull on one side... I don't find the length of the cutters as important as having a full set of sharp cutters. One or two damaged on one side is enough to make it pull. Usually a slack chain or worn bar will cause the chain to jamb in the cut rather than pull to one side.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 09:33:29 04/24/14) The main reason for a chain cutting to one side is that it's dull on one side... I don't find the length of the cutters as important as having a full set of sharp cutters. One or two damaged on one side is enough to make it pull. Usually a slack chain or worn bar will cause the chain to jamb in the cut rather than pull to one side.

Rod

Rod, shouldn't a new chain be equally sharp on both sides?
 

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