how do you slow down rust on your tractor hauler?

Nick m

Member
Just got my truck back from the body shop today. One southern box later, and the rust on the box side disappeared. Is there anything you can do to slow down the rusting process?
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Stop it? No.
Keeping it clean and waxed will help slow it.
Dirt up underneath that traps moisture speeds the rusting.
Keeping it dry would help too, but then reality sets in.
Nice looking truck!
 
I know it's not easy but try to keep the salt washed off in the winter. That liquid crap they use now is much worse for your truck than the rock salt and sand mixture that was more commonly used years ago.
 
wash wash wash
undercoat.
stay out off salt roads
don't drive it in wet weather.
store it in garage.
 
what rustred said, I do not drive mine in winter, 1995 Chev Silverado, looks really nice, lives in pole shed, plastic vapor barrier under it, have a grocery getter to do my running around, at the price of good pick-up trucks, worth having 2 vehicles...
 
Get rid of the running boards you have on it. They are the worst ones you can have on it because they trap salt, sand, mud and everything else that rots bodies out faster. Put on a tube style that bolts to the frame, and leaves a gap between the body and the tube and that will help a lot.
 

My buddy plows with his trucks. He had one Ford that he carefully washed underneath after every storm, that rusted through in many places in four years. You need to get under it and study where the salt brine will get into and sit, and where dust will make mud against the sheet metal and never dry out. On my Ford I had noticed that door bottoms rust out. I found that the outer skin laps over the inner, after a few years the paint cracks and moisture gets in. I watched for it and when I saw it happening I took a screwdriver and dragged it across, pulling off the lifting paint. I then sprayed WD-40, gave it a day to penetrate, then sprayed aerosol chain lube which comes out very thin then sets up. Many cars and trucks rust out above the rear tires because there is a piece of rubber that the moisture gets trapped behind. You can look right up and back at them from just ahead of the wheel well. It is very easy to spray WD-40 up at them and let it run down in. For all you WD-40 haters you can use whatever, but moisture displacement and some degree of stickiness are needed.
 
Used oil in a hand held sprayer,shoot it every where under the truck, between the inner and outer fenders, inside the tail gate,inside the doors, and especially in the cab corners.
 
i guess im lucky out here in nm, got a 8o model chevy 1 ton with original paint, not any rust yet
 
I spray every thing under truck and back side of fenders ans panels with oil and wax everything else.
 
DoalL used to make a pretty good rust remover for beds and ways on machine tools..used it with excellant results..areas that are overhead where it might drip off, duck taped cloth to the rusted areas and then soaked the cloth with the rust remover, let it soak for a few days then applied wax, paint..whatever..

think they have jells out that do the same thing
 
Trouble is if you live on gravel roads the rock will blast all the paint off the lower quarter of the truck if you don't have good running boards installed. Tube style do not block the flying rock.
 
(quoted from post at 22:35:56 04/15/14) I spray every thing under truck and back side of fenders ans panels with oil and wax everything else.

I've seen this recommended many times in the past...

How do you keep the oil from dripping all over the place?

Your driveway has to be an ecological disaster, not to mention a greasy, slimy mess. Bet your wife loves it when you track your oily boot prints into the house.
 
You don't put that much on to get a lot of dripping ( put it on like a thin coat of paint). I put STP in oil to make it tacky so it doesn't run that bad. I wear coveralls and get very little oil on me. The sprayer nozzle I use puts out a fine mist. I do it on stone floor of building that I store tractors and IF I get any oil on shoes its on top side of shoe and soaks into leather. I do this to truck twice a year.
 
my buddy and I have been using a rust proofing gun and used motor oil, spray into all doors, hood, tailgate, inside fender wells, frame etc... Let it drip a few days, once in the spring, once in the fall, the oil inside keeps the seams from getting water in there and rusting, it will also stop any rust from getting worse, the EPA and tree huggers won't like you much, but it will keep your truck in great shape for a very long time.
 
I had a 1996 Dodge ram 2500 and it looked better than any other here in Ohio because I kept oil sprayed in and on it !
One thing I learned after it started to show a bulge was on the rear bed side wheel opening to get oil inside that area you need to look down into the stake pocket and you will see where you also NEED to spray.
 
I got an '02 2500, '96 2500, and just recently picked up a '95 1500. Dodges seemed prone to rust for some reason. My '96 is catching heck, but I got a replacement bed and doors and stuff. My '02 is setting in great shape with low miles in one of the barns. I saw someone over in Illinois that coated the outside of his from about the door trim down with spray on RHINO liner, black. You can bet that when I redo the '96, and get to the '95, the insides of the fenders and stuff are going to get RHINO lined. And if they make it clear, the outside will get it from the trim down too. How is it going to work out? GREAT, I hope. The '02 will continue to get babied. I aint buying no new trucks I figure. About a year ago I happened to be at a Ford dealer, and they had two brand spanking new F350 crew cabs, not duals, 4x4, two tone paint, diesel, loaded up...$64,000 each. They were sharp, though.

Good luck, and you got a real nice looking truck there. I'll race you to 1,000,000 miles, because thats what I figure to get out of my '96, if it kills me.

Mark
 
You'll beat me! This one only has 120000 on it. I try not to drive it in the winter but have to some times. I figure cars are cheaper and more economical to replace than trucks. I know what you mean on the new prices. A coworker of mine just bought a new duramax that had a 70000 sticker price. He thinks he stole it at 58. If that makes him happy good for him. I'm not gonna spend that much on a vehicle in the near future.
 
(quoted from post at 16:50:29 04/16/14) I got an '02 2500, '96 2500, and just recently picked up a '95 1500. Dodges seemed prone to rust for some reason. My '96 is catching heck, but I got a replacement bed and doors and stuff. My '02 is setting in great shape with low miles in one of the barns. I saw someone over in Illinois that coated the outside of his from about the door trim down with spray on RHINO liner, black. You can bet that when I redo the '96, and get to the '95, the insides of the fenders and stuff are going to get RHINO lined. And if they make it clear, the outside will get it from the trim down too. How is it going to work out? GREAT, I hope. The '02 will continue to get babied. I aint buying no new trucks I figure. About a year ago I happened to be at a Ford dealer, and they had two brand spanking new F350 crew cabs, not duals, 4x4, two tone paint, diesel, loaded up...$64,000 each. They were sharp, though.

Good luck, and you got a real nice looking truck there. I'll race you to 1,000,000 miles, because thats what I figure to get out of my '96, if it kills me.

Mark

Rhino lining is great for protecting new paint and the metal under it. It is also great for protecting any rust that is on the metal when applied. It will lock moisture in and keep the rust working 24-7 instead of for just a few hours after it gets wet. but at least you won't have to be looking at the rust while it is eating your truck!
 

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