rick1

Member
have many of you guys have used 3 point box blades.i have several high spots i would like levelled off.but wasnt sure how they really worked.
RICK
 
I have only used one much on a gravel road, which is fairly narrow and easy to crown. On a large are that you were flattening I think it would take a bit more skill but I have never tried.
Zach
 
I sold mine, I didn't like it. Too hard to control, especially when one front wheel goes in a hole, blade lifts up and leaves a pile of dirt. Opposite happens when rear wheel goes in a hole.
 
A guide wheel (or two) mounted behind would help with the leveling process. Haven't seen on boxblade, but haves een them on conventional 3pt blade.
 
(quoted from post at 19:49:12 02/25/14) I sold mine, I didn't like it. Too hard to control, especially when one front wheel goes in a hole, blade lifts up and leaves a pile of dirt. Opposite happens when rear wheel goes in a hole.

Pull type box blades eliminate this problem, no comparison really.
 
Gill pulverizer. Works perfect. I know, I own one and have used it extensively.
DSCN0319.JPG
 
They work super on a tractor with down pressure.
I have moved lots of dirt with them on Case eagle hitch tractors. The secret is to put a smaller diameter pin in top link or a hydraulic cylinder.. When you do this you can lift the box so slightly the front will come up without raising the back and it will ride on the back blade. The material will flow from under it. The blade on the back is made for cutting going rearward and it acts as the gauge wheels going forward If you want to cut going forward shorten the top link. To level loose material lengthen the top link. With a little practice you can do as good a job as a land leveler would.
 
Make sure that you get the roll over model with three setting. Scraper, box fill and ripper. You should be able to trip them from the tractor seat.
Walt
 
Easy to use, most guys try to go too fast to control it. Before skid steers, we used a massy 40 I believe it was with a box blade to level gravel for floors.
Along with my skid steer I use a JD 950 with a box blade for snow and really like it.
 
Box blades take practice, but once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed at what you can do. It's all in the length of the top link. Shorten it and the blade will float on the runners, lengthen it and the blade will dig in more aggressively. Varying the length of the top link allows you to dig or smooth.
 
Box scrapers work very well. Get one that has easily adjusted rippers, because it's the rippers that make these things work. I used mine this winter for pushing snow and it worked pretty well for that.
 
I like them
make sure you buy a heavy one, or weight it.
If you live where there is a lot of clay, in the summer a
regular blade is useless on dry, hard clay.
You need the teeth of a box blade.
They will pull a lot of dirt from one place to another, enough to bring even a weighted 800
to a stop if you are too aggressive.
The rear lip/edge on them is also handy for final smoothing
with an extreme angle on the toplink
 
I made my own 3 pt V shaped leveling blade. Works great. Can't see how you could lift a pull type.
 
Can you recommend a good one? I'm thinking I need one for my 240 when I get the engine problem sorted out.

The one we've got at the farm is worthless for pushing. It's built like a brick ****house, but it just crumpled up like a Volvo when Dad tried to use it to backfill a drainage tile trench. Can't remember the brand.
 
I have had a couple of them. They are OK but after a got a good loader tractor and paved my drive I never used them. When moving dirt around, I found it hander to have a landscape rake, with the guide wheels, on the back of my loader tractor.
Get one with good digging teeth if your going to use it on your drive. I think its Woods that makes a nice one with a lever to flip the teeth down and up easily to dig or not dig.
 
They work great. I have a frontier (short line of deere) Its built heavy and cuts well. Setting the toplink is the key to operation. Using scarifier teeth the thing will really dig. It would be ideal to use with a hydraulic top link. Having a good 3pt that is sensitive is another key to making them work well.

I would not waste my time with a light duty one like king cutter from the farm stores.
 
I have a hydraulic top link on my tractor which makes it easier to play with the cutting angle, but I used to do it with a regular top link. I found that if you set the box blade on the ground and use the 3 point in draft position you get a more uniform result, just tilt forward for more cut and back for less cut or smoothing.
 
(quoted from post at 06:18:51 02/26/14) Can't see how you could lift a pull type.

You pull on the hydraulic lever and the cylinder lifts it, if you got a double cylinder model the other lever will lift lower the left tire for crowning roads or cutting ditches.
 
I made my v-shaped blade float, no need for a double cylinder. I can lever, crown and slope. Used it last saturday to slope a 20 ft wide drive so the rain would run away from house, 20 ton of #8 white rock. I had to be able to pick up blade and back up to garage door. It worked perfectly. Like I said, better than a 6 ft box blade.

My neighbor wanted to buy a box blade. I let him use my home made blade to spread out new white rock in his drive. He was impressed. Wants to build one for his massey 35.

This past summer same neighbor wanted to make a horse arena. Ground was unlevel. He used a back blade on his massey to loosen up the dirt on high side of arena. I pulled it and level the dirt with the v shaped blade. Arena was about 100 ft x 200 ft. Took us only a few hours to do the job. One happy neighbor.
 

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