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Belarus won't start, how to by pass solenoid? Belarus Fans!

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I'm looking at a used 5180 Belarus tractor that the owner is selling cheap because it will not start. There is a solenoid on these tractors located between the dual batteries. I have red some post on here for the same issue on the 825 and other models.

My question is how can I by pass this system to get the tractor going to test it out?

The owner is not going to put any money into machine and I do not want to until I'm sure that the rest of it works, I don't think that the correct fix is impossible, see lots of parts sources for these tractors.

Lastly re these tractors 12 volt or 24volt,
 
Sounds like the system on some of the big rigs I have messed with. The solenoid between the batteries is how they get 24 volts and then with it out or off it charges with 12 volts and it does two things. Hooks up the 2 batteries to get 24 volts and unhooks the alternator so as to protect it
 
can't answer your question specifically - but can you just put a screw driver across the two heavy terminals on the solenoid?

Usually all it takes to make a temporary connection.

Lots of sparks - so not a great idea if the batteries are being charged.
 
Is this something that could be pull started? I'd check that it wasn't seized up before I 'd tug on it but that might be a hassle free way to see if it runs
 
I could always pull start the 825 when that solenoid went bad or the batterys were dead. Last time it cost $180 or so for a new solenoid. Too bad the owner won't spend $180 to get it to start, it would pay. Is there another problem? If the engine is loose just give it a pull, should start right up.
 
Like old said---I believe I replaced one of these on a Belarus years ago & I remember it as such. agree with others about pull start if all checks out. if not cable kill, run temp. 12v. to injector pump. trying to jump this solenoid could cause a lot of probs, as it may not disconnect 12v. circuit----
 
I wonder how much different the Belarus switch is from the US way of doing things... the info below pertains to series-parallel switches that I believe were originally developed/made by Delco-Remy.

Sometimes, if you shop around, those can be found for $100, give or take a few dollars.
Series parallel
 
That brand was a ll the rage around here for 2 years. Several Case dealers got it all around here as their ecconomy line.

Folks that bought the first year were too embarrassed to say what a bad deal they were, so it took 2 years before everyone noticed the dead ones just sitting in yards not working....

They still get passed around, at auction sales and stuff, they sell so cheap people keep thinking well I can make that work for how cheap it is... And, well, you see them haul it to the auction sale the next year, defeated by the machine...

Sure hope you get a deal on it, or find something better.

Paul
 
It is a parallel switch between the batteries.Tractor starts on 24,charges 12.We bypassed the parallel switch and put a 12 volt starter on ours,works fine.As stated,could be easily pull started.
 
There is a 50 amp fuse in the parallel switch that will blow,if someone has tried to jump the starter solenoid,not enough voltage there for a 24 volt starter.If that's the case take the lid off the parallel switch,and turn it over,it should have a spare fuse there.
 
A lot of guys have been crushed trying to short out tractor solenoids.

If the seller can't get it to start, the price should be its scrap metal value.
 
That is a series paralel switch start on 24 v.
could be just a fuse burned out.
New switch is only a couple hundred or fix the old one.
If the starter fails get a 12 v one and keep the 24 v start.( you'll be glad you did, i been using one for twenty odd years, tractor fires up in a split sec every time).

Tractor should pull start easy even without batts.
Engine is still all mechanical. engine stop is throttle lever forwards.

Belarus is good tractor,..i have 2,..can't kill them.
 
Should have said this, this morning but I was in a hurry. You can always unhook the alternator and then short across the solenoid and try starting it with the starter switch. By doing that you remove the component that you can burn out by shorting across the solenoid between the batteries
 
Old,you can't do this,as you still only have 12 volts at the 24 volt starter unless the parallel switch is engaged.This quickly overheats the starter and solenoid,and feedsback and blows the fuse in the parallel switch,if not already done.Can also damage the starter/solenoid.
 
Tow it... to the scrap yard.
I don't know about that generation but the old one we had (520) was 12V and it had 2 6 volt batteries with the series parallel switch. What most guys did around here.... build a battery box right next to the starter and wire up a pair of group 31-1100 truck batteries in parallel with 4/0 cable. That seemed to work fairly well.
If that one has a 24v starter then you're more or less stuck with the series/parallel switch unless you can match up a 12V starter... which might be a very good idea.
They are a simple tractor. They are quite fuel efficient..... but it about ends there. You might as well try and drive a pig with a stick as point that thing straight. Aside from the improved cab the 5180 is much the same old sow underneath as the 520 we had...


Rod
 
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