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886 air conditioner

S

scotty-mn

Member
I just got this tractor and the previous owner said the air conditioning would not hold a charge.
Where should I start there is a kit on ebay for new compressor and lines for around $650?
Scott
DSCN1567.jpg
 
Shoot a can of leak check in it and see what turns color from the leakage. Gotta find the leaks before you can fix 'em.
 
Chris WA,

I'll second the leak check. I did it once on a Dodge 2001 truck. The can also had a stop-leak component to it.

That was the last time I needed a r134a can in the truck. I did see the leak point with a black-light bulb.

D.
 
its been below 10 degress here in Pa. the airconditioning would be the least of my worries right now. but I understand its to cold to work outside so might as well be working in the shop. I have been fixing lights and wireing. don't have a cab. but would like to have.and ac to.
 
like the other guys said, use a dye. napa sells the kit for about 30 dollars, it has a dye shot cannister, a really cool looking pair of yellow saftey glasses, and a small penlight type u/v flashlight. you will need to charge the system. (hopefully its r-134, not r-12.) get the compressor to run. then add the dye shot according to the instructions. be sure to clean up any dye that squirted anywhere. brake cleaner and a paper towel works good. run the system for a bout half an hour or so minimum. then let it sit till the next day. put yer cool shades on and go over the whole system with the u/v light. if you see dye (it will flouresse (sp) ) when you see the dye, you found the leak.
 
Can almost guarantee the front seal on the compressor is leaking. That model did not like the diesel engine vibration and the seals needed replacement every 5 years or sooner. Hence the retrofit kits to sandeen compressors.
 
looks like a good original system. I would check it out first. I like the old York compressor. if it leaks @ seal, easy fix.
 
Look for were lines are rubbing, sometime a/c compressor oil shows were leak is, front seal on compressor is another spot. Put some a/c gauges on it, pressure should show about what the temp is if any Freon in it. may need to jump compressor clutch if to cold or low on freon to get it to run. May need to charge it to find leak, dye works good for hard to find leaks. Need to be sure you replace the dryer , New o rings and add little a/c oil since you breaking the system open. You can get lines made cheaper then from dealer. Ih has easy system to work on. good luck
 
If he can"t see the oil that"s leaked (along with refrigerant) out the compressor shaft seal, HOW is he gonna see dye?

Also, if you"ve ever had to open up an AC system that"s had NASTY NASTY NASTY dye in it, you would wish it had never been thought of!

If a person is going to any significant amount of AC work, a good leak detector is a wise investment.
 
well bob, i own a shop, we do a/c work here. when you add a dye shot it is about .4 oz of dye that gets injected. i have snap on a/c recycler/charging stations, also have electronic and u/v leak detectors. instead of having him drop 6-700 hundred for a new compressor, it would be way cheaper to put a charge in it and leak test it. he will drop 3-400 for a quality heated electronic leak detector. we work on a/c all the time, and have never had a problem with dye. stop leak goo...yes, a/c dye...no. when you evac the system, it will pull the dye out with the refrigerant. my recycler filters out the dye. yeah, there is oil around the compressor. is it from the compressor, or just typical oil covering most diesel engines. i prefer to find a problem before just throwing parts at it.
 
Completely agree. I have found that the most EXPENSIVE way to solve a problem is throwing parts at it until something fixes it.

For that matter, I have found that the cheapest repair generally becomes the most expensive in the long run.

The dye is the best leak detection method that I have found.
 

2X what Mite Help said. I had a DB Case with a compressor like that and the shaft seal went. EASY FIX.
 
Glennster,

I have a shop, as well, and am certified in mobile and stationary refrigeration, so am am not exactly without experience in dealing with people"s AC problems and dye messes.

You are right in that it doesn"t take much dye, but it seems there are quite a few others out there who did not get the memo on that. I"ve dealt with some horrible messes.

The fact remains that oil circulates with the refrigerant, and any equipment that operates where"s there"s any amount of dust at all will show oil/stuck-on dust at the site of any leak, just as the dye leaves a residue that"s viewable under IV.

That"s a real good place to start... look in the compressor seal area and at all fittings and along the hoses for traces of oil/ stuck-on dust.

That won"t solve some awkward little leaks, but it sure finds the majority of "em, and that"s all the OP may need to do... at no cost and puts no added crud in the system.
 
(quoted from post at 15:53:22 01/29/14) "Need to be sure you replace the dryer"....

I have never understood this practice. Why?

Allan
Click to expand...

I can tell you that in my case it was to fix the problem caused by the PO putting stop leak in it. Plugged it up good.
 
(quoted from post at 18:53:22 01/29/14) "Need to be sure you replace the dryer"....

I have never understood this practice. Why?

Allan
Click to expand...

The filter/dryer contains desiccant material to absorb moisture. It is a good practice to replace it so that it can absorb any remaining moisture in the system after it has been opened up for repairs.
 
The desiccant in the drier removes moisture. Moisture combined with freon chemically turns into hydrochloric acid and corrodes your a/c system's metal parts, from the inside. Secondly ,it removes moisture which would freeze at the expansion valve or orifice tube, which causes the low side to go into a vacuum stopping the flow of freon thru the evaporator, and thus not cooling.
A/C systems freeze up 2 ways, internally, as described above, and also externally where air does not flow across (thru) the evaporator because it froze into block of ice. This is usually caused by compressor not cycling off and on, but constantly running; or sometimes a dirty evaporator not allowing air to pass thru it. Mark
 
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