Kelly boy

New User
I have a '47 ford 2n and have a wagner fel for it. Jest wondering the best way to cobble up a pump,tank,and valves. I understand i can run it off the 3pt pump but don't want to go that route. Spare me the "n tractor is usless with a fel" speel. it is all i have and it will be primarilly used to load/unload my sawmill. Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
some run a pto pump off the front of engine, thus loosing hand crank starting, a least you have consist pump power, running off pto on rear [if app] you loose power when clutch is pressed
 
go yo link_disallowed site and check out jackson pump

Jackson Power Steering is introducing a Front Mounted Hydraulic System designed to give older tractors a live hydraulic system that is reliable, strong and trouble free. The unit is designed to look like front mounted tractor weights and actually adds less than 150 pounds weight to the front of the tractor. The unit holds a little over 5 gallons of hydraulic oil. The 9 GPM Vane Pump is embedded into the reservoir for protection and to allow the unit to be as compact (close) to the tractor as possible. This unit is set up for the 2N, 9N, 8N Ford, however, could also work with the NAA, 600 and 800 Series as well.
 
What you need is the mount for the front driven pump and a drive hook up and the correct pulley so the drive hub will bolt on. I have a 8N with both loader and back hoe that uses a front driven hyd pump
 
As the others said, a stinger pump driven off the crankshaft.
Shaft pump goes right through the hand crank hole in the grill.
That gives you live hydraulics for the loader.

You do have to change the crank pulley for the pump to hook to,
and that requires detaching the front end and moving forward a bit.
I actually just detached the steering and radius rod on one side
and swung it around out of my way.

This one happens to be on my Jubilee. I also had one on a 9N, same idea.
You can make your own mounts or use a bumper like they did here.
Note the damaged dogleg, radiator and missing grill. Done before I owned it.
Some front end protection is a good idea too as on the 9N.

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mvphoto2555.jpg
 
Kelly,I'll spare the "speel"....Ns are great little tractors,I love em!But they can get a bit light in the rear end.It will help tremendously to load the rear with fluid(that's the 'secret' to an N).A heavy wt on the three point will be a big help in that department as well.As was said go with a 'live' pump on the crankshaft.
 
"just wondered if you have given any thought to a rear end loader on the 3 point?"

ih_bug, I know you weren't replying to me, but I have thought about
them. The originals are hard to come by and expensive if you do.

They are also a trip bucket, not nearly as useful as a fully hydraulic loader.

They won't lift as high and it's harder to see what you're doing.

It would be neat to have as a novelty, but for actual use I would pass.
 
Royse, you should change that clear braided suction
line to a proper Hyd. suction line. I've never seen
a clear hose rated for hydraulics/oil use.
 
Ya, it's too soft and has a tendency to collapse shut too.
It was only on there for testing after I drug the tractor
home, got the motor freed up and got it running.
 
by originals do you mean the dearborn? I think
there was a video on you tube but cant seem to
find it right now. I would like to see one of
those up close.
there are lots of trip bucket front end loaders
too and some hydraulic rear end loaders. I know a
2n wont take a very big rear end without the
wheels coming off the ground.
He said it was for use around a sawmill moving
logs a trip bucket will work great in that
application as will a rear end loader ,easier to
steer comes off fast to leave tractor free for
other things and the lifting weight is on the big
drive wheels where it should be.
I dont agree with you on not being able to see as
well I think its just the opposite but that
depends a lot on the design of the loader.
I can see A variation on the design of this bale
spear being real handy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH0o8uJlxYo

put a cylinder in where he has the top link lose
the top spear should work good around a sawmill .
light weight and cheap to build.
 
Yes, I was referring to the Dearborn style, or the old Ferguson one.
It might work ok for his intended use if he's comfortable with it.

Keep in mind that the Ford N's had non-live hydraulics so the
clutch had to be engaged and the PTO running to use the 3 pt.

They also have zero external hydraulics, so a cylinder is not an
option unless you do some modifications.
A front mounted pump like many FEL's used would be one way.
 
That's what I'm talking about! thanks for the pics. where can I find that pump and shaft? Is it one of The Old Hokie's kits?
 
Mine is not one of TOH's kits, but that would be a good way to go.
Give him a call. Even if you don't buy a kit, he can give you an
idea of what the part numbers would be and what is involved.
 

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