using a tractor to pull or haul logs safer

Neil T

New User
I do not know anything about tractors and not nothing about hauling logs with one. I am looking for advice.

I would like to buy a tractor to pull out some cedar logs. I am looking at a MF 35 with a front end bucket or loader and a 3 point hitch. Alternatively I was thinking of an 8N but apparently they are prone to flipping (I am not sure about this part). The cedar trees are not that big - maybe 20" from the bottom to the top where it is 4 to 5 inches. I saw another discussion on the same issue where the person was dragging logs out using his 3 point hitch with a draw bar attached? Does this make sense. There is an issue with tractors catching the log on something and then flipping backwards. The suggestion was to get right over the front end of the log and then lift it up high with the 3 point hitch before pulling it out. They also suggested cutting the limbs off and the top off before moving it so there was less weight and less likelihood of catching on something.

The tractor I was looking at is a MF 35. It has a front bucket loader. I thought I could hook the front bucket on the log, lift it up and drag it backwards out to the road. Then if it catches on something, The front will be held down and will not flip over. The worst that can happen is I hit something on the way out backing up. If the chain snaps it is short and unlikely to do any damage or whip around.

Alternatively, if I can run a cable from the front bucket of the tractor through a pulley attached to a tree at the road and then to the tree I want to haul out. Then I can back down the road, which will again eliminate flipping. However, I could get the tree hung up and snap the pulley or the cable. The pulley is good for a ton and the cables are usually much stronger. If the cable snaps it can whip around and really hurt someone. But if the cable is stronger than the pulley, the pulley will break first and there should not be a problem. Well that"s what I was thinking.

Does anyone have any idea what is the best way to haul logs or any comments or suggestions on the above?
 
I have skidded a lot of logs with a 35. I do not think it will work very well to back up and pull from the loader as you will lose traction. I use skidding tongs hung from the 3 point drawbar by a clevis. I would definitely limb out the logs and drive slowly with them. Keep your skid roads clear, do not drive over brush and sticks and such as they can be caught by the log and come up and hit you. Again, drive slowly so you have time to see what is coming at you. If you do not want the logs at full length cut them into firewood or fence posts or whatever they will be on site and load them in a wagon. This is safer and they will be clean when you cut them.
Zach
 
That 35 massey is just as likely to flip as the 8N.The loader will help hold the front down.As far as dragging backward-dont. you will probably roll over sideways that way.And all the weight will be off the rears,so traction will be a problem.Buy your massey.Hook the log on the back and pull normally.Carrythe loader bucket low as to keep the center of gravity low.Raising the loader high raises the center of gravity makes a tractor prone to tipping sideways.Hook low on the tractor,go slow,be observant and everything will be fine.Be safe!
 
I like to lift them with the 3-point so they don't get so dirty, and then be careful! You have to use a little common sense, and that is not something that can be explained or taught! If you have a loader on the tractor it is not so apt to rear up. If you don't have fwa you won't pull much in reverse using the loader.
 
I've pulled all kinds of logs with a MF 245 with loaded rear tires but no loader. Cedar aren't as heavy as oak and usually pull fairly easy. One advantage I have is a whole lot of "seat" time which helps me to know when I should be more careful OR I've been awful lucky over many years. I usually pull with a 3 point hitch bale spear to get one end of the log off the ground. I would NEVER pull one by dragging it on the ground but "your mileage may vary", others do. I would look into some type of arch if one is available. Since you have little time on tractors your learning curve may be slow and dangerous. Being extra cautious would be well advised. Also, if it seems too much then hire a pro to do it for you. Good luck in whatever you decide!
 
Dragging backwards is not the best plan most of the time. Once you get familiar with a tractor, you will know why. Until then, its just words, won't make sense.... No traction, no control, too high a lift.....

In general, there is a safe way to do things, and a whole lot that are not safe.

This is not something we could teach you with a few paragraphs on a web forum.

Go slow, go low, practice on the level, think things through.

Keep the chain you use lower than the rear axle of the tractor. If you hook it higher on the tractor you will get more traction but it will want to pivot the tractor up and over if the log hangs up.

A roll bar and seat belt would add greatly to your safety; but the machines you are looking at are far too old for such.

Yes, and N series is a bit flippy. They had the hitch point in back kinda high.

If you go slow, low, and think, you will do fine. If you are kinda reckless and gotta get done yeaterday and need for speed, well then the safest rig won't really help you out.....

Paul
 
i have used a to-20 fergy, an a5star moline to do the same. one of the main things to do is not raise lift arms above the centerline of the rear axil,annot put yourelf in the position of a rear rollover,[watch the ground an area that can hook the log tightly.as being a vol firefighter,i have seen an made a recovery of a person that was trieing to pull a car up an enbankment by hooking chain to were top link hooks onto tractor,after 3-4 tries fergy got enough traction an car got hookrd onto small treestup an fliped tractor over on to him before he could push clutch in, his funeral was 3 days before co fair,an his kid had that on there mind for the fair.
 
Hi Neil,
I have skidded many logs with JD 420, B414D, 434, 454 and 684. My advice is to find a used 3pt skidding winch. The 3pt skidding winch will prevent the tractor from flipping over backwards as the bottom of the winch will hit the ground preventing tractor from going over backwards. With the cable on the winch, you can pull logs out of difficult spots with tractor parked with brakes locked and PTO running. Also always skid logs with the top end (small end) of log hitched to the tractor.

Be very careful as cedar tends to grove in low and uneven ground.

JimB
 
I gather my firewood with my 8n. It has an attach point for my chain under the pto. This makes it very difficult for the front end to be raised as opposed to using the 3 point drawbar. If the Massey does not have a similar point or can't be added you are forced to use the 3 point drawbar, so keep the lift low. You have an advantage over me with more/slower gears. Sometimes low is to fast for conditions. Just let the tool between your ears be the first/most used tool you use.
 
I have always blocked the wood where the tree was. If hauling it out in tree length what about limbing the tree and backing over it with the tractor and chaining one end up to the loader and one end to the three point there by picking the whole thing up and not skidding it? I don't know as I have never tried it. Maybe some one else has.


Steven
 
as far as the loader goes it would help keep the front end down but remember it will be harder to maneuver in the woods with it on there
 
I have skidded logs chained to my 3-point carry all. I pick the end up just enough to clear any stumps or other obstructions. Works good. I have a TO-30.

Larry
 
I have a swinging drawbar set-up that mounts underneath the differential. I've skidded out logs and been pulling out alder bushes and pin cherry trees for 3 years now. With the drawbar mounted under the differential like this it tends to pull the front end down when things get hooked up. A very good rule of thumb though is to pay attention and keep your foot on the clutch pedal when skidding anything.
 
Google the term "logging arch", then make one yourself. I made one out of an old 300 gallon sprayer axle, that is non hydraulic, you make the chain block, that grabs the front of the log, slide up a inclined ramp, and snap into place at the top of the lift. To disconnect, merely back the arch up, a little, and the log lowers.
 
Good Lord! There's about 3 people so far in this thread that have actually ever pulled any wood out with a tractor! But man, they love to give advice.

The Massey should be fine. The loader will be in the way for woods work. Probably best to take it off if the tractor is going to be mostly for the woods. You can't pull the wood out in reverse, not gonna work if there is any mud/snow/ice/hills or weight to the logs. Eith er pull from the drawbar or a 3 pt draw bar. The mounted drawbar is safer, but you won't be getting any traction. A drawbar on the 3pt will add some weight tot he tractor when you lift the log, but it *could* make it tippier IF you get too much weight on the back. Until you get some time on the tractor the factory drawbar is probably lots safer.

There is no way you can possibly back over the log, hitch it to the 3 pt in back and loader in front and get it out of the woods. You might be able to do that with a 4" pole, but not a 16" log and I don't know why would want to.

An 8n is no more or less "tippy" than any other tractor. 99% of the tippy factor comes from the guy in the seat.

Best of luck.
 
I hook a bale fork on the back and that puts the weight back further for more traction, plus the fork will help get other stuff out of the way if need be. Just be careful, logging is number 1 dangerous job and farming is number 2.
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:18 01/12/14) I have always blocked the wood where the tree was. If hauling it out in tree length what about limbing the tree and backing over it with the tractor and chaining one end up to the loader and one end to the three point there by picking the whole thing up and not skidding it? I don't know as I have never tried it. Maybe some one else has.

Unless you have a high-clearance tractor, or are only skidding twigs, this won't work.

A Massey 35 is pretty low to the ground, and won't clear much of a log without scraping the bottom.

Hitch to the fixed drawbar, go slow, and if the log doesn't move right away STOP, and get a different angle on it. Don't try to brute force the logs or it will come back to bite you.
 
the mf 35 is more tractor than the 8n, but either will pull wood of this size provided its done propperly and that means no 3 point hitch, lifting with a 3 point on a light tractor like a n or similer almost garentees the front wheels will go flapping in the air, you must hook to the drawbar under the rear axle, the line of pull must be below the axle centrline to lessen the chance of rearing up. all tractors will rear up if the mechanical advantage of the log, the size of the log and the hitchpoint is high enough , ive pulled many logs with a old 2n, and my jubilee, obviously the jub was way better , the way i did it most of the time was since the logs were long, but thin, 18 inches down to 6 or so, i backed the tractor over the log and attached the log to the middle of the tractor [ the 2n doesnt have a under axle drawbar] with a chain, the land was gentle rolling ground and i never had a problem, the jubilee has the under the axle drawbar and chained to that i never had any problem either, just use common sence hook the log as low as possible and pratical for the terraine, dont attempt to climb any hills with a log in tow, thats extreamy dangerous if your in steep hill country you would be better off using a winch to drag the logs up
 
(quoted from post at 06:57:32 01/13/14) i always have a back blade connected to the 3-point and pull off of it,the blade will keep ya from flippin over.
RICK

I do it this way too
drop the blade, chain the log to the blade,
lift the blade just enough to get the log nose
off the ground.
drive away
worst that can happen is the blade will drag
and level your trails at the same time :)

at camp, dragging with a 4-wheeler,
I put the log nose on a upside down car hood, and drag the hood

from my post on the other board, ya can't beat a
slip/dirt scoop for dragging logs.
lower the scoop, back it under the log,
lift a little,
chain the log to the scoop frame
drive away
 
I've been pulling shumacs outa the ground backwards hooked to FEL barely off the ground. I can attest to lack of traction even with 30 gal can full of cement, loaded rear tires and double set of weights it still unloads rear enough to dig holes. I'm not worried about tipping over but them holes in my lawn won't fill themelves.
 
I use my ford 1310 4wd to pull full length logs. I trim he top and all branches.
Hook my chain to my drawbar but over the 3pt hitch blade. Pull the log butt end first so the branch stubs don't fetch up so much. try to keep the chain hook at the bottom of the log to help lift it when pulling.
 
Make it a 4th that "actually" tows logs with a similar size tractor ! LOL!

Neil has a valid concern, N's can and will do that under certain conditions, as will other tractors, under certain conditions. When we sold Ford tractors new, the R.O.P.S (roll over protection system) were just starting to be required. In conjunction with that you need a seat with a safety belt, to hold you in, for that to work as intended, the result is you won't be crushed by the tractor if it were to upset or roll over. A relative of mine and or someone with him proved that an N can and will flip backwards under the right conditions, it killed the person, it was only a few years ago, I believe they were tugging on a stuck dozer. I could not find the news story after doing a search. its a valid concern about what could happen.


However, given the M-F tractor has a loader, and depending on your methods, conditions and other factors, its not very likely you will flip a tractor over backwards.

I have to tow logs with an 850 ford with a loader, or I would have very little firewood. I've done it for several years now, on our land, which has many sidehills, slopes and similar terrain, with topsoils that can get slick when wet. I tow logs up hill to the area where I cut and split near my home.

This tractor is heavily ballasted, tires are loaded with CACL, I have an old aircraft tug counterweight, ford I believe, its a thick cast iron weight, on an 11 hole drawbar, the 3 pt lift arms hold the weight and those arms bear on a bar that span the lower arms of an old backhoe mount which is part of the loader frame, + I haul most of my heavy logging chain as well, its a heavy ballast all together. The front loader provides balance, I would NOT recommend taking it off. The bucket is front weight, you can cut up a log and fill the bucket for more weight, you can shift logs, you can clear brush and make paths, log headers, and places to turn around, in short its a necessity, and increases the safety margin. If your woods are too thick, you will have to make a path. Yes, you can bump into trees if you are not careful, doing that can knock limbs off from above, so if you have nothing overhead to protect you BEWARE. I'm in the woods often, thick brush, and similar, I find that when using a tractor for these tasks, the tractor would be worthless without the loader on for the above reasons.


When towings logs flat on the ground, there are times the log may want to deeply gouge the soil, create a lot of resistance which can make you lose traction, and if it does catch on something, if the front end is weighted down, ballasted with just the bucket or you have loaded it, you will lose traction and slip. I have double ring chains, but don't always use them or have them on for towing logs. You can cut a wedge out of the butt of the log, but often times, roll it over, or when you cut a tree down, once down you can use the tree to your advantage leaving a high spot down or skidding on a bend, sometimes it makes all the difference and you are not fighting that face of log, the butt etc gouging in. Frozen ground makes this task so much easier.

Log arch like was suggested will be much more efficient. However, a boom pole on the 3 pt hitch does work very well, you can transfer some weight to the rear end, but a tractor will get light in the front end. Boom poles are nice, but you need to hook off the pole as close to the tractor as feasible, and you are still above the center line of the rear axle, ideally you want to tow from a drawbar under that axle, but as mentioned above, a bare log can and will make a lot of resistance, and or gouge the ground, so getting the leading end of the log raised is ideal. I have seen skid plates for logs being towed flat on the ground, but have never used one.

This is dangerous and hard work for a tractor, a person has to take their time, and use safe methods, I would cease doing this myself if I thought it was that unsafe. My tractor will lose traction, if I try and drag too much at one time, soils get moisture and too much of a load to pull. I cut stumps flush, every tree I cut, I dig around the base, clear the dirt and then know I've left nothing dangerous I will forget about later.

Your conditions and methods will vary.

Do not pull from the loader bucket with the tractor in reverse, you won't get much traction, you can easily turn the tractor on its side doing this if the bucket is raised high enough, most likely a 3 pt boom pole would be much better if used properly, (a heavy duty one, not an inexpensive TSC or similar model). I've used one on a 2020 JD, no front end loader, at a certain point the front end gets light, if you were to catch on something, it could raise up or flip backwards, but not likely because one end is up. You observe and make adjustments, do not exceed the limitations once you know the tractor and how it reacts. Tow from the drawbar under the rear axle/housing, get too much resistance, you have to try something else. I've had lighter loads on that stop the tractor, just too much drag, one log too many, take one off, and back moving again, I will say dragging flat can be a pain at times, anytime you can get a log up just a little it helps immensely.

I can say with large pines, when you roll the log onto some of its branches you can use those as skids as long as they face the direction you are towing, opposite they will anchor into the soil and stop you. I leave branches on for this reason. Last year a huge pine went down in the back yard of my neighbor down the lane. I had the tractor on pavement, severed the tree from the stump, but was just too much to pull, so I cut it into 3 logs. I was going up hill the first attempt, tires still slipped, front end just not coming up, but if you rigged the tow line up higher, like the top link bracket, (NEVER DO THIS), going up hill, I'd believe it would not take much to go over, hard to say, but thats how it does happen. That pine was heavy, the bottom 2 logs were a hard pull, but I skidded them on the branches, kept my chain off the pavement and less drag.

Being new to this, and new to tractors, is a bad combination to start with, you should get a competent person to help you, won't take long to get used to doing this work, but you do need a feel for it, and that comes with experience. I know the limitations of my tractor and stop often to adjust things, let some of the load off, make more trips, always fighting hills or something, it is one of the harder tasks a person can do with a tractor.

Rigging is important, don't undersize chains, wire rope if you use that. I use old chain that I have acquired over the years, I don't worry about chains snapping as traction gives way first, by the same token I do not use damaged or questionable rigging. I have seen chains snap, but when using a crawler, lot more traction and torque involved, I've straightened hooks, but do recall a fool towing a roller out of the mud with a dozer and the chain snapped, a chunk hit my R.O.P.S. like a bullet, left a dent. If you undersize a chain and pull hard, it could happen, but likely not, lose traction and you have to get out of the seat and make a change on what you are towing, its the fool who keeps jerking the log with the tractor that will get whipped or have a piece of flying metal coming at them. This work is about the path of least resistance, your conditions will vary to find that path.
 
Bret.......I agree 100%; been logging for at least 55 years (starting in my mid-teens)....always with a farm tractor. Started out with a MF "50"; have always used a three-point hitch drawbar with a good chain or logging tongs. Of course the front end is gonna come up a little, but I've never come close to having a pulling accident.
Not putting the op (or anyone else) down, but if one's experience level is so low that you've having to ask directions from folks you've never met, I'd suggest hiring it done.
 
NO! NO! NO! Not CaCl!!!!! Don't you read the internet?????? ( I read {on the internet} that everything on the internet's true) Have you checked your tires this morning? I GUARANTEE that your tires are flat and your rims are rust!
 
LOL !!!! I know, we are not supposed to use CACL, I know. Back to reality, I've had decent luck so far, yes there was a leak I was misled about, so ok, technically I damaged what was about a 5 year old rim, was new, tire guy screwed up, and for whatever reason, it got past me. So I fixed it myself, tire dismounted, welded up the rim, made a new hole put it all back together, been years since, and initially, it may have just been a tube replacement, wash the rim down, no big deal, you do have some time, its not like acid, mind you, still corrosive, but forgiving if you make timely repairs.

LOL ! maybe its those who advise that don't actually use CACL, LOL ! well I had best not stir the pot, it works fine, has its own rules, play by them and you will be fine. RV antifreeze, windshield washer fluid, sure it makes sense, and I would not hesitate to use it, but CACL is inexpensive, it works and does not freeze and is I believe still the heaviest ballast, we all have choices in life and have to live by what we do, so each to their own LOL !
 
I pulled a few logs with a NAA back when. It had a set of log tongs bolted to the 3 point drawbar. On big logs it wouldn't start, you had to wheelie it up almost strait. Then just before the front wheels hit the ground, pop the clutch. You learned to always have your hand on the 3 point lever, keeping your front tires just floating. If you couldn't do it they got someone else! I know that isn't acceptable today, but that was what we had to work with.
 


1)You can pull just fine with the 8N or Fergi provided you use common sense. 2)Loose the F/E loader.It will be a hinderance in the woods.3)Get the 3 point D/B over the end of the log.Useing a clevis hook attatched to the bar, drop a chain link into the hook,raise the bar and log and go. There are 3 good reasons for getting the front of log off the ground.It keeps the log cleaner,it just about eliminates hanging the log up on an obstruction and will give added traction because of the aft weight. If you can't get close enough to get the D/B over the end of the log skid the log just far enough to make the above work.There have been times where I've backed the tractor 4 or 5 times,shortening the chain each time to get the bar over the log.This will work for you if you use your head. This isn't the way big operator pros do it but some of us little operators have been doing it this way for years with great success.
 
you are talking about doing it completely backwards.
buy the Massey twice the tractor, and I have both a couple Masseys and a ford 2n.
lose the loader for bush work.
buy a 3pt skidding winch if you have much to do you will not regret it. the skidding plate in the link below is another option but its no winch.
the fransguard v4000 is a perfect match for the 35 massey.
Norse is another make but I dont like there fairlead, Farmi is a good one

http://www.embmfg.com/Forestry/SkiddingPlates/

http://www.embmfg.com/Forestry/Winches/FX90.aspx
 
Neil,

I do not recommend pulling a log with a tractor unless you have an arch as chip812 says. I try to take the tractor with loader or trailer to the log (not to say I never pulled one) to be safe.

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</a>

The trick is to limit the number of times you have to handle the wood before end use.

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End use.

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In the 19th century, north woods loggers used very large two wheeled carts or cassions pulled by a team of oxen to skid logs out of the forests in the winter. The front of the log was suspended off the ground below the cart axle, and the back of the log skidded on the frozen ground. Maybe you have seen pictures of these carts being used.
 
Speed and hooking the butt end of the log onto something immovable is the common cause for flip backs.
Ripping and roaring away trying to move too much tree with not enough tractor is another factor.
Better to cut the top in half if too large and make two trips. Less rutting of the logging road too.
I have hauled all kinds of tree tops from the bush/forest/woods with a JD 70 gas row crop. Flip the drawbar up for height and hitch the chain as short as possible. Putted along in 1st gear with a hand on the clutch. Avoided side hills and steep hills.
 
So you are going to break into tractor driving by going in the woods and skidding out logs with a
MF 35? Can I get a life insurance policy on you?
Far better bet than the lottery I'll collect.
 
If you hook to the drawbar like you're supposed to and your tractor has a bucket on the front, I don't see how you can get into too much trouble.
I skid logs all the time with my Allis WD with a backblade and a bucket.
The backblade allows me to take some of the weight off the front of the log and also prevents a backflip.
This is a full length dead white oak I hauled out of the woods this past November; about as big as I want to hook on to with the old Allis. A lot of weight there!
a141580.jpg

a141581.jpg
 
One of Dad's friends flipped a Ford over on himself dragging a log attached to the seat bracket. We should all know, don't do that.

I never had any problem with traction backing with a log chained to the FEL, but it was a CaseIH 385 with loaded tires, a lot heavier tractor than the poster is asking about.
 
put a pair of tines
on top ends of bucket parallel to the bottom tines so you dont get a log on your lap if the loader accidentally goes all the way up when you are looking elsewhere & something catches the loader control.When cutting evergreen trees~the branches may act like springs when the tree hits the ground & propel it up over the stump like a rocket so be out of the way. Go slow . Be careful.
 
(quoted from post at 08:24:26 01/13/14) Bret.......I agree 100%; been logging for at least 55 years (starting in my mid-teens)....always with a farm tractor. Started out with a MF "50"; have always used a three-point hitch drawbar with a good chain or logging tongs. Of course the front end is gonna come up a little, but I've never come close to having a pulling accident.
Not putting the op (or anyone else) down, but if one's experience level is so low that you've having to ask directions from folks you've never met, I'd suggest hiring it done.

Probably a good idea. Some of the posts here might work on level, sandy ground. On clay with ledge, rock, stumps, swamps, hills and cliffs...not so much.
 
(quoted from post at 11:37:49 01/13/14) Neil,

I do not recommend pulling a log with a tractor unless you have an arch as chip812 says. I try to take the tractor with loader or trailer to the log (not to say I never pulled one) to be safe.

&lt;a href="http://s614.photobucket.com/user/DaninOhio/media/IMG_0115.jpg.html" target="_blank"&gt;&lt;img src="http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/DaninOhio/IMG_0115.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0115.jpg"/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;

The trick is to limit the number of times you have to handle the wood before end use.

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End use.

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Dan,

I think your tractor sneezed, grew an airstack, and expanded its bucket by the last photo. Too big of loads???




I seldom skid logs. When I do, it's the biggest tractor (4430) with a pile of weights on the front, a quick coupler on the three point hitch, and as short of chain as I can hook. A skidding winch would sure be nice, but they're $3000 to $6000. Cheaper to cut on-site and haul out on a trailer.
 
I was very surprised at all of the feedback. There is a lot of good ideas here. I will have to take some time to think things over.

Definitely realized that pulling the logs backwards is not good.

I have a two wheel hand dolly like the arch that I have been pulling logs with but It would need some modification to work with the tractor - a little too high up and the wheels are too close together so it tips. No hitch on it.

Adding a blade on the back sounds good so I don"t tip. These logs are not that heavy. Two guys can normally pick up a 16" log that is 10" at the butt. If they get bigger then it is too much.

I am trying to be careful. I will try to find someone who has done this with a tractor to show me before I try my hand by myself.

Thanks for all the input. This is really good.
 

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