sammydwm

Member
Looking at a new 55hp range machine. Kinda like the looks of the McCormick x10.55m but the dealer also sells New Holland and the Workmaster55 prices out nice.
Looking at 2wd with a loader. Anyone have any good or bad points on either brand?
Not too worried about any discussion about 2iwd vs 4wd.
 
I would stay with the more major brand, New Holland, unless the money difference is great. I think any money saved now will not be a savings later on if you need to sell the tractor. I would bet on New Holland over McCormick.

If your local dealer quits McCormick where is the next closest dealer???? Also these new McCormick's are not the CIH tractors they started out being. They are more of a Same than a CIH.

Of coarse the McCormick is built in Korea and the New Holland is built in India.
 
I bought a McCormick x10 in 4 wheel drive for $18,000. Tractor is my wife's and it works great. The tractor has a loader and it has been used for general farm work including pullig a 10 foot disc. She has had it for a year now with no issues.
JD Seller might be right about future value but we can not be sure about the future value of those NH tractors either. People [me included] were saying a few years back that those Kubota things wouldn't last. You can see how right we were.
I believe the Korean tractors are well made. DO NOT BUY A CHINA TRACTOR UNLESS YOU LIKE JUNK.

By the way, we priced JD tractors, Kubota tractors and NH tractors and they were from 8 to 10 thousand more than the one we bought in the 40 HP range.
 

Agree with JD Seller about value, but in my limited observation the Koreans make better tractors.

KEH
 
I've got 2 NH's now & haven't had any trouble out either one. Don't have anything against the other colors except price too high for green & red dealer is too far away. My tractors have performed very well.
You say not worried about 2WD x 4WD but with the loader you will. Pick up a bucket full and try to back up & you'll find out why 4WD is much better with a loader. Good luck with whatever you get & hold onto the wallet none of em are cheap.
 
Try one you might like it. I did. Branson for me. Bought it in '07 new 4wd, cab, and FEL. Would do it again hands down.

On the 2 vs 4wd. My first loader was on a ford 4000 4 cyl with 600-16 front tires as I recall...thin. The axle had already been broken, welded and turned upside down putting the stress on the unwelded portion. When you turn the axle upside down on that series and younger Fords, the wheels sit out at a funny angle and steering is awkward.

Any load, even the loader itself was a real problem for the front end in steering and sinking.

Next comes a JD 4020D 2wd PS with 9L-14 as I recall....fat tire but even it was a problem when working soft ground.

Then I retire and take some savings and buy a Branson with 4wd. The first 4wd vehicle of any sort I ever owned. I've posted numerous pics of it on here and that HD front end and fat tires are great. But when you add the ability to pull too it's marvelous.

HTH,
Mark
 
Loader...2wd. I'd sure think that one over before I made my final decision. Try loading a scoop in wet conditions with just 2wd and then shifting into 4wd. You go from "can't" to "can do" real quick. Or like what has already been mentioned, get a load on your scoop and try to back up. A little more money and a lot more usefulness or as I've told a lot of folks, "From a toy to a tractor."
 
I am a Ag Equipment sales rep and have sold several of the McCormick X10 55M tractors 4 WD with loader and cab AC Heat 3 point and have satisfied customers. Sold the last one two weeks ago into Alaska for about 30,000. We also now sell the Branson tractor line and the 5220 55hp Branson with loader BL25R 4 wd and lots of good features we can sell with cab for 32,500. These South Korean built tractors have better cast steel, dual hydraulic pumps, heavier built frames and Cummins base A series engines 4 year power train warranty and make our Case IH look puny. I would stay a million miles away from Case A series or New Holland Workmaster models as they are throw away in my experience and I have sold some so I have a basis for my thinking. Migraine
 
Neighbor has a Massey, about 55 hp, with front loader to move round bails. He make a ballast weight for 3 pt to hold back wheels down.

My toy backhoe is only 2 wheel drive. I made a bar-bell set of weights for back hook to transfer weight to back wheels when I'm lifting heavy things.

I've seen people leave brush hog in tractor for ballast.

In my opinion, even if you had 4 wheel drive, you would still want rear ballast extended behind rear wheels (not ballast in tires) to transfer weight from front wheels to rear wheels.

Let's say you lift 2000 lb with loader. That not only puts 2000 lb on front tires, you transfer another 2000 lb from rear wheels putting a total of 4000 lb on front axle. Not a good idea.

George
 
Second thought, I would check to see how much loader can lift, how high and how fast. I've seen many add on loaders kinda slow.

My neighbor just bought a new kabota bx23 with loader and hoe. The loader is only rated at 460 pounds. He can't lift a full scoop of dirt. Loader is kinda of slow too. If you look at the size of his front tires and front axle, there is no way it could lift much more without doing some serious damage.

Before any kabota people jump on me, check it out first. Neighbor really isn't very happy with his new purchase.

George
 
Even with the ballast, you would still be adding that 4,000 pounds to the front tires, only now you have enough traction to really bust something up if you drop a front wheel in a hole. You'd only lower the load on the front axle by the weight taken off it before picking something up. A barrel attached to the 3 pt would have to weigh in well over 2,000 pounds to take that much weight off the front end.
 
T in NE,
The physics of adding ballast behind the rear wheels transfers center of gravity to rear wheels. I have a set of bar bells weights for hoe on backhoe that will allow me to transfer center of gravity to the back wheels and remove all the weight off the front wheels. The opposite is also true. I can lift heavy objects with loader, removes all the weight on the rear wheels and everything ends up on the front wheels.

All this is really a physics problem dealing with a first class lever. Either the front wheels or rear wheels becomes the fulcrum in the problem, depending on center of gravity.

George
 
Went to the Case IH dealer for a quote on a new one to compare and ended up buying a used New Holland from him.
Picked up an 07 TN85A with loader and bucket for an incredible price. So I ended up with 4WD anyway...
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:42 12/14/13) Even with the ballast, you would still be adding that 4,000 pounds to the front tires, only now you have enough traction to really bust something up if you drop a front wheel in a hole. You'd only lower the load on the front axle by the weight taken off it before picking something up. A barrel attached to the 3 pt would have to weigh in well over 2,000 pounds to take that much weight off the front end.

I agree with George. I had the same type discussion on another tractor forum so I took my tractor and 2 rd bales to a truck scale. With a rd bale on frt and rear the frt axle weight is a lot less(nearly 50% less).
 

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