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95 f250 rear brakes

D

Don-Wi

Well-known Member
Doing front end work on my truck (2wd 5 sp. 5.8L) and I pulled the drums off the rear to inspect. Found one wheel cylinder leaking. Hardware is crusty but the shoes and drums are like new. Also the parking brake cables need to be replaced (small cable inside drum is gone on Drivers side too) and I'm wondering, how in the world do I replace the wheel cylinders? the hardware for the parking brake is in front, and it's been siunce high school that I did anything to drum brakes, but I never did anything than a 1/2 ton. This one has me a little confused...

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
If you look on the back side of backing plate you will see 2
small bolt heads on either side of brake line . A little hint
warm the brake line fitting up with a propane torch and
touch it with bees wax or toilet wax ring. The line will spin
loose rather than twisting the line off.
 
I get that- but you can't get it out with the self adjusting hardware in front of it. What's holding it in? a clip on the back?

I have the bolts and line off the drivers side, and am a little stuck right now. I have to go get the self adjuster repair kit in town yet, and possibly a few other things I find between now & then

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I replaced the rear brake shoes and cylinders on my 1981 Cougar as they were leaking. I replaced the brake lines too. The small bolts holding the cylinders broke, but you get new bolts with the new cylinders. Hal
PS: I put a little anti-seize on the bolts.
a137448.jpg
 
You basicly stripping it right down to the backing plate. You
have to pull the shoes loose to pop the pins out of the shoe
and cyl. Not a fun job but highly recomend replacing
everything. While your under there look at the load valve in
the middle above diff. They are notorious for freezing up
and not letting the rear brakes work. Hold on to your hat if
you have to replace it.
 
figured it out. had a nut on the back side holding it all on. I'm just gonna take the whole thing with me when I go get the hardware I need yet. already had everything else off, just had to get the last nut.

I took my phone with a forward facing camera and suck that back there with a light. easily showed me what I was missing. now I'm standing in front of the torpedo heater to warm up some. 0 degree wind chill outside today.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Remove the shoes first the brake cable will just hang there holding the shoe and you will see how it is held in its not that bad to remove.
 
sounds like you got it, yes there is a nut, about 7/16 maybe if I remember right that holds the park brake lever that was in your way of removing the wheel cyl. Sometimes that brake line can be a pain to get loose too.
 
I'm just glad I can squeeze it in the garage. not much room behind and just enough room to walk in front, but it's all I need. It all started with the radius arm bushings being shot. figured I'd do the ball joints since I was in that far. then the shocks. then the brake hoses looked bad. then I looked in the drums....

Now, 15 minutes after all the stores are closed, here I sit ready to put the new wheel cylinder in and the old bolts are the wrong thread, and the new ones didn't come with any. the old ones are metric threads I think (8MM) and the new ones are 5/16. talk about frustrating.

Not too mention the new brakes hoses for the front didn't come with the retaining clips, and I didn't order them. Nobody local had then in stock that I have found yet. same with the copper washers for the banjo bolts...

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Make sure to clean everything on that top bolt.
That way your parking brake will work and release
properly when you are ready to drive.
 
If the bolts won t fit the new Cylinders you have the wrong ones. Take one of your old ones apart and read the size on the back of the cup. DO not let you master cyl go empty while you have the lines off, a little vacuum line and a bolt will stop the leaking. The nut on the parking brake arm is a locking nut do not get it too tight. Almost forgot, use the old washers, do not use new unless the old ones leak. ASE retired.
 
The old ones are metric, new ones are inch. Otherwise look to be exactly identicle. Bought from Rockauto and the part numbers match up. I'll get new flanged head bolts tomorrow from the hardware store.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
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