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Metal roofing on a farm house recommendations

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have made the decision to put a metal roof on a farm house I own. Going to use standard pole barn metal. Low profile ribs I think. 29 gauge. Probably a gray color. Think I will hire this done. Contractor says he uses 1 by 4's screwed down to the roof sheating boards. House is 80 years old so it has 1 by 6 boards with a layer of wood shingles and a layer of asphalt. I think he said he would screw the 1 by 4's down with 2 1/2 inch screws. Tin would be screwed down on the flat surface not on top of the rib. Said he didn't ever put screws on the rib - just next to it on the flat. I said I didn't want this tin to come up so he said he could double the screws across the bottom. Would ring shanks or screws through the furring strips into the rafters be better?? How about 2 by 4's over 1 by 4's? Are these overkill??? What do you guys think??? Any better ideas??? How do you guys do it??? Don't ever want to do this again. Thank you.
 
1"by 4" is good if the old roof is not level easier to shim the metal roofing co.recommend screws in flat
 
what the contractor is telling you is correct. the tin supplyers go way over board with those damm screws by saying to screw every 2 feet from top to btm. i installed tin on my garage and started doing that and then said this is b.s. and put the screws every 4 ft on a length of 19 ft tin. but i removed the old shingles and screwed them right to the 1x6 boards. many people just leave shingles and install 1x4's and then srew the tin to that. definitly dont need 2x4's for that. that would put it up too high and the wind could get under the tin. dont worry the tin will out last you.
 
and for sure the screws go on the flat surface cause they have a rubber washer. not like the old syle tin with nails that had to be installed on the ridge.
 
I put a metal roof on my house. It is the raised seam type with the metal clips so there can be no leaks. One piece of metal from ridge to gutter.

I used the energy efficient stuff. About 80% reflective. Will out live me for sure. I don't think I would ever consider another asphalt shingle.
 
I'm going to disagree about putting the screws on the flat. Have never had a problem with screws on the rib, but nothing but trouble when they're put beside the rib, or anywhere on the flat. If you feel he would be able to hit the rafters, you should use 3" green or grey decking screws. DO NOT use yellow screws, they do not stand up to moisture at all. 1x4 lumber is way cheaper and works great.
 
Ditch the 2 old layers of roofing. Stronger job to screw direct into old roof boards, which can be inspected for rot, loose nails, etc. Never time to do it right, always time to do it over!
 
What happens,ten years down the road when the sun deteriorates the rubber and the rain runs down the screw. These metal roofs are going to bite people in the rear big time in a few years.Roofing contractor that has been in business many years told me,if it has an exposed screw,don't use it. Standing seam is a 100 times better, if you insist on metal.
 
I always put the screws or nails on the ridge. Metal roofing moves when cooling or heating. The washers deteriorate over time and fall apart. Get in an old barn that has used tin on it, look up during a rain storm and look at the holes in the ridges from the previous use. They don't leak.
A roofer told me the washers don't last many years.
Richard in NW SC
 
We had a metal roof put on our old house and used the 1x4's. Pull the old material off down to the decking. Ours has a waterproof self- sealing adhesive backed membrane on the decking, then the 1x4's then the metal roof with the screws with rubber gaskets on the flats. Looks great & has been trouble free for 5 yrs now.
 
(quoted from post at 04:33:04 06/06/13) What happens,ten years down the road when the sun deteriorates the rubber and the rain runs down the screw. These metal roofs are going to bite people in the rear big time in a few years.Roofing contractor that has been in business many years told me,if it has an exposed screw,don't use it. Standing seam is a 100 times better, if you insist on metal.
Click to expand...

The screws I use have a metal cap covering the rubber washer. How is the sun going to get to it? We used screws on various houses and outbuildings for the past 30 years, more actually, and not one has had any "rotted rubbers letting water in". Nails are a different story.
 
Lots of contractors around here are saying to leave the asphalt shingles on, to deaden the sound. Having never been around a metal roof, other then my shop, and we are thinking about doing the house, I want to see you guys input.
 
you screw in the flats to avoid stretching the metal,..also you will want to insulate the he## outta the attic, this will keep the freezing and thawing that will fill the gutters with ice and bring them down,....BTDT
 
We put pole shed steel on our new cabin 12 years ago. Osb, then tar paper, then screwed the steel in the flats and where it overlaps. Only 12 inches of insulation and you can't hear it rain, want to blow another 12 inches on top.
 
I would recommend getting the shingles off first. That will really take a load off your house. It will allow your steel to lay better and know if you really have the furing strips on tight.

I would also recommend the standing seam stuff from menards. Don't know if you have a menards but its on their website as prosnap steel roofing. Its standing seam with no exposed fasterners except for putting down ridge cap and other trim peices.

You can put it down just as you describe and be just fine too. I would put the screw on the flat to be sure the washers are seated properly and they can do their job to create a seal.
 
Many, not all code enforcement jurisdictions around here make us strip off all layers if shingles, lay down felt or roof wrap, and then 2x4" strapping, max. 2'oc., which have to be fastened to the raters, not the old roof boards. You can google your favorite steel companies website and there are detailed instructions for fastining the steel down. Fabral Inc., which I use packs a manual in every order of steel sent out.
ask your contractor or it.
Loren, the Acg.
a117850.jpg
 
Put right down on the old shingles ten years ago, used screw, and got a 50 year gaurantee from the metal company. Quieted the rain down and is great shape so far. I recommend it for all roof's
 
The gasket is UV resistant, and covered by a cupped washer. The screws need to be driven straight, not crooked to get a good seal. The only issue I ever saw was when Case-IH told our local dealer that they had to repaint their tan colored building to Grey and White to comply with the new company image. The roof was paint dark gray, and as a result of the dark color and paint thickness, there was a lot of expansion and contraction on the near 35' long panals, which worked the screws loose. We ended up getting bigger, longer SS screws and replaced all of the old ones in the roof.
Loren, the Acg.
 
I'm with ACG, get the instructions from the manufacturer and tell your installer to do it by the book or find someone who will.
If it were me and I was a lot younger,I would take off all the old shingles,take off any large mouldings around the edge of the roof like old houses have put 5/8"plywood on the roof NOT osb,manufacturer will not warranty over OSB. Then the screw used for plywood is different, bigger dia. and shorter. Then make sure you put on all the trim strips that the manufacturer recommends no bending the roofing down over the edges.
But since I'm over seventy I'm hoping this lousy roofing job, 1X4 over three layers of shingles with the roof edges poorly nailed into 4" cove moulding that was done just before I bought this place lasts longer than me.
Then again if you're a young man go with the standing seam. Part of this 150 year old house of mine has the original standing seam roof on it.
stamped on the back side it says guaranteed until 1928.
 
Remove old roofing, and do it right.
Screws in flats only. Screws in ridges distorts metal roofing, causing problems. Several folks below have posted about deterioration of the rubber washers. They will last for ever IF the screws are properly applied, straight, and not over tightened. The crew MUST have the clutch in the screw-gun set correctly or it will over tighten the screw and start to split the washers, then they will fail. BTDT.
Tom
 
better take a drive and have a look at the tin roofs. u wont find any with screws on the ribs, because the screws are not designed for ribs and wont seal on the rib. also you would have to predrill the tin because you would just flatten the tin from trying to install the screw. AND it would not seal either cause the screw will just keep denting the tin flat , as there is no way to seat the rubber washer. as i said that old style tin was NAILED on the ribs, once the hole was predrilled. this tin is SCREWED on the flats. also the screws are not even long enough to screw on the ribs.
 
Dad and Mom put a metal roof on their house, the contractor would NOT put the roof on until all the old roof was taken off. His attic is well insulated and the sound of rain is not a problem.
 
29 GA is to thin. I put 24 ga on mine and when we screwed it on the ribs it did not flatten it so it would leak. The screws are 3 inch. Striped the old roof leveled roof and put 1/4 inch foam under it with 3 inch screws through the top of the rib.
We put 29 ga on the free stall bard and is rusting badly. will either need to reroof or paint it. Might get some of both.
 
Been a carpenter/contractor for over 27 years and do many metal roofs on houses every year..The biggest issue with leaving existing roofing on and putting fir strips then metal over is the weight of the roofload..for those that live in snowless areas this may not be a factor..i personally wont put metal over more than 2 layers of shingles due to added weight.
Every manufacture i have installed metal for requires screws on flat as screws on rib will push metal down without hitting resistance from flat surface therefore not allowing solid contact of screw and washer.
I prefer to tear exiting roofing off, but if homeowner is trying to save money, then i use 2x4 with 3 1/2 stainless screws.
Keep in mind that when putting metal on wood sheeting without a 1x or 2x there is no space for the area between metal and roof to breathe. Metal does sweat and causes condinsation and moisture so the space caused by firring strips allows air to circulate.
Good luck..most important ghing is to keep weight in mind.
 
You have had many opinions posted here today. It is pretty easy to determin the professoinal coments from the "armchair contractors". As I stated below, the code varies from jurisdiction to jurisdiction, so call your local code enforcement, and fine out what they require. That call can save you a LOT of money and wasted time.
Loren, the Acg.
 
If I took a drive, the vast majority of the roofs will have the screws in the rib. That's the way it's done around here. What gives you the right to be such an arrogant a$$. I don't really give a crap if you've been at it for 30 years.
I have both and everything screwed on the flat (previous owner) leaks. Certainly not all of them, but way worse than anything that's screwed on the rib(0 leaks). The OP said standard pole barn metal. To me that says Vic West Barnmaster 5 round-1/2" ribs. It does not dent the tin, and the washer does seat. I've just looked at 3 PDF files from Vic West, and NONE of them said how to screw the steel down. It did however call the ribs "nailing ribs" and later said to never use nails, only screws. It also showed alot more pictures of screws through the ribs.
Let logic take over for a minute. If putting nails on the flat resulted in leaks, but putting them on the ribs all but eliminated leaks, does it not seem logical that screws would follow the same principle?
 
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