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Tractor Talk Discussion Forum

Re: Shingles vs metal roof

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Author  [Modern View]

05-02-2013 19:01:40

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I have a 20 yr old asphalt shingle roof with 25 yr shingles that were shot two yrs ago. I have a guy coming to quote me in a week for steel. They warned up front they are 3-4 times more expensive. My friend insists that steel ALWAYS goes directly on the shingles and he'd use regular pole barn steel not standing seam. I said roof is strapped with 2x4s but he says no. I said it would sweat and scratch and rust but he says no. Personally I would strip to plywood and starte over with steel standing seam.

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Oliver Power

05-03-2013 03:26:51

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 Re: Shingles vs metal roof in reply to redtom, 05-02-2013 19:01:40  
Listen to "Yourself" Tom. If going metal, what you said is the way to go. We work all over the country side, and see metal roof problems all over the place. Mainly with barn metal on homes. Many of the problems are with installation. And others have nothing to do with installation. We are now starting to get a customer here and there say to us "This Metal Roof is the Worst Thing I Could Have Done". We battle metal roofs all the time. I have to say; They are getting more & more popular on homes.

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05-03-2013 12:32:48

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 Re: Shingles vs metal roof in reply to Oliver Power, 05-03-2013 03:26:51  
I've even been told not to put it flat on the felt/plywood/osb. It needs the strapping and air space whether over shingles or new felt because it will sweat. Don't know how true it is. Haven't done it yet. Personally I would tear off, put on new felt, 2x4's, then tin.

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Oliver Power

05-03-2013 18:36:29

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 Re: Shingles vs metal roof in reply to redtom, 05-03-2013 12:32:48  
Give it all the air flow you can. It still sweats. No stopping it. If using metal roofing, strip all the old shingles off. Install ice and water shield, or 60# felt over roof decking. Then install the roof panels (preferably standing seam on a home). No NEED for purlins. If you thought you wanted air flow (not a BAD idea, but not necessary), First install 1/2" - 3/4" strips vertically. Then install horizontal purlins. This way any condensate can run under the purlins, and out the bottom. If using standing seam metal roof panels, the bottom edge gets bent around the drip edge. You'll have about one inch sticking past the fascia board when done. One inch is what you want. If using barn metal roof panels, you don't install ANY drip edge. Simply let the metal roof panel over shoot the fascia board 1"- 1-1/4". Many people install drip edge with barn metal roof panels( BIG MISTAKE!). I recommend covering the fascia board with flat metal. And if you want, bend another piece of metal to slide up under the barn roof panel 4 or more inches, and counter flash the fascia metal, keeping it tight to the fascia metal. Again; No Drip Edge with Barn Metal Roof Panels. Do as I said, and you'll be all set up for gutters. Now you'll need snow retention of some sort. If not, good chance you'll get the gutters ripped off from ice/snow. Other problems are: water rocketing down the roof, jumping the gutters(Especially in the valleys). On barn metal, screws back out. Rubber washers go bad, etc.. The length of roof matters. The pitch of roof matters. The rays of the sun matter. The wind direction matters. The Geographic climate matters, etc.. The flatter the roof pitch, the less the warrantee. Warrantee's are void within 3/4" of any cut/perforation. On barn metal, every screw is a perforation. An acidic type atmosphere will eat holes in a metal roof. EXAMPLE: fly ash from coal stove. Or salt water mist from ocean. Which in case; you might want to look into a different kind of metal roof material. I can go on and on with this metal roof topic. Metal roofs also have good points to them when properly installed. Still, I'd never install barn metal on my house. On a trailer, hunting camp, etc., Maybe? Every situation is different.

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