Need advise on an electric motor.

Stephen Newell

Well-known Member
I have a Dayton 3/4 hp motor model 6K123G which I'm using on 110V. I took the motor off of a saw and repainted the saw and motor. The motor worked fine before I painted it. This motor frame is very sealed almost like a explosion proof motor so I didn't get any paint on the inside. Well then I thought I just wired it wrong so I referred to the schematic on the motor and T4 and T5 were missing from the schematic but I located it on another source. Then I thought perhaps the capacitor went out or came loose so I put another one on the motor and it's doing the same. Any ideas?
a113634.jpg
 
Classic case of , "if it ain't broke...don't fool with it"....at least not until it is broke! Sorry for your troubles.
 
Might start here. Personally, I don't like Google, but often can post and find. I tried "wiring Dayton 3/4 hp motor model 6K123G for 110 volts". As I look at what you posted, I'm confused, and not an expert anyway. The Google search might bring you diagrams. I wish that I could be more of help, but I'm just not.

Good luck.

Mark
Google Search
 
Sounds like it might have gotten bumped and the start switch is stuck open. you will have to open it up to check that, it will be on the back end of the motor. Thats where i would start.
 
another thought it could be dust in the start switch too. I keep up 4 commercial saws at work and i dont care how sealed the motor is they are always full of dust.
 
Well the saw itself is older than the motor. It's a shopsmith bandsaw I bought about 35 years ago and the bearings on the saw were making some noise. I took the saw down and removed the bearings and repacked them with grease and in the process did a little restoration on the rest of it. I had had the saw in a too small shop where I ended up getting overspray all over it and it looked really bad.
 
Actually I spent most of the evening looking on google trying to find some info. I'm on dial up internet and more than half the sites I went to wouldn't open. That is why I came here. I couldn't get any real answers.
 
I'm not sure what I'm looking for but I will give it a try. I very rarely see the inside of a motor. The motor was never really bumped however it was turned almost every angle cleaning and painting it.
 
Its been too many years since I worked for Century Electric Motor Company (first job as an EE right out of Purdue) but thought those were referred to as TENV Motors (Totally Enclosed Non Ventilated). Anywho if its a typical Single Phase Split Phase Motor they are NOT self starting so a seperate start winding needs to be in place when its turned on to get it initially spinning and at X RPM a centrifugal switch opens taking the start winding out of the circuit.

HOWEVER if the start switch contacts are bad or the switch is stuck open NO TICKY NO LAUNDRY and she wont start. If its a Capacitor Start split phase with a capacitor in the start winding if its bad/open she likewise wont start. If the start winding isnt wired right she wont start well duhhhhhhhhh

Switch or switch contact problem or wiring or capacitor (if its capacitor start)

John T
 
Steven, when you apply power, does it only hum and attempt to rotate slowly or does it do absolutely nothing, no hummmm at all ??

First suspicion if it does nothing is a bad connection where you reconnected whatever wires you removed. May even have disturbed another connection while working in there.

If it hummmms and/or attempts to initiate rotation, I would suspect the start capacitor as the issue. However, everyone above is correct about the potential problem lying within the centrifugal start switch. In your endeavors, possibly blowing with air to clean it out, some debris could have become lodged between the contacts so the start winding and consequently the start capacitor is not in the circuit. If your wire connections are good, re-blow the area of the the end bell, it may dislodge particulate inadvertantly blown in.....

Double check the wire numbers, smudges etc make them hard to read.

....and, I've done it before....I've plugged into a cord or outlet that had no power..... Give us some more info...someone will get you taken care of I'm sure.

The easiest thing for you to replace is the capacitor, which will be less than twelve bucks or so from WWGrainger if you have no way to test one. If you have access to an analog (not digital) meter I can give you the proper test procedure for field testing. However, some cheap digital meters (less than $60.00) will have a capacitance test position on the dial.
 
I want to thank everyone for the help but I got it running.

I got to thinking about what randysouthmississippi said about the motor getting bumped so I picked up the motor about an inch off the table and dropped it. Then it not only hummed it attempted to turn. I then spun the motor by hand and tried to start it and it worked. For a second or two it ran real sluggish before it kicked in but after that it starts and runs fine now. I realize it's a warning but I put the motor back on the saw rather than trying to tear into it myself to attempt to make a more permanent fix. Besides it had a plastic fan on the back side of it that seem stuck which I was having trouble getting off and was afraid I would break it.
 
Ahh. Sorry. I wasn't much help either. I work with IT (computer) guys quite a bit. One thing they say to me a lot is, "...Google is my friend...". They have the fastest and most modern computer gizmos in the world, and if they don't have an answer, they Google. I know where you are coming from. I used to have dialup well over a decade after others got high speed, and now I have high speed as well. These days, Google could be my friend, but I don't like Google and avoid it. Personal choice.

Glad you got it figured out. Much good luck and success in the future.

Mark
 
Graingers, the source of your motor, has a super
parts department, there may be a phone number on your motor, or you can find info on their web
site, and get diagrams, wireing schematics,
picturial breakdowns with part numbers, and order
parts.
When I go to auctions I always look for "Dayton"
motors.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top