88 F150 ignition relay

Don-Wi

Well-known Member
Is there a quick way to check the ignition relay in my truck? Last Saturday I was gonna take it to the farm, and it wouldn't go. The fuel pump kicks in, and it cranks over. Pretty much the exact symptoms as the last 3 times (once for my dad, and 2x for me, once in traffic at a light). Pretty sure that's the problem, and I'll go get one on Friday and give it a shot, but was wondering if I could test it out with my voltage meter first.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
Not really. You can pull the ignition box and have it tested. Many parts houses can test them. Those years were kind of notorious for the ignition box failing as they aged and cutting out after they got good and warm. I would also check the pickup coil in the distributor. They were problems as they got older as well. Good part is neither of them are too pricy these days. The ignition box used to be costly, but they have really come down.

Greg
 
Intermittant failure to start on Ford products of this era is usually the TFI module mounted on the base of the distributor. Less likely, but possible, is the Hall effect sensor inside the distributor. Sometimes both are marginal, and troubleshooting will drive you nuts because the problem goes away once the truck cools off.
 
I'll probably stop by either O reilleys or automotive supply and get one. Like I said, it's happened atleast 3 times that I'm aware of.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I drove a 88 back around 1990 and if I rember right it had a issue with the roll over switch that would shut down the truck in the same way you explained it was a mercury switch I think in the firewall above the peddles it started just stopping once in a while and then just compleatly give out and made the shop guy's pull a lot of hair until they found it. I do hope this helps John
 
If your fuel pump is running when the truck won"t start,the roll over switch or fuel pump shut off is working OK. Next,do you have spark when it won"t start? AND,do you have injector pulse-switching at the injectors? 12 volt test light should flicker as you crank. Unhook injector plug and put the light between the two wires. If only missing spark,check ignition module-thick film and pick up-hall effect switch in distributor. If both,the ignition relay,Henry (Ford) calls it the EEC IV relay ,should be checked. But before you buy one,check the underside of the connector for green corroded rotted off wires - the orange power supply usually. Me,I check there first,easier,cheaper and less irritating than the rest. Hope all that"s some help.
 
Don't forget to pick up the special tool to remove the TFI module attachment screws. It's called the "TFI Module tool" and sells for about $5.00
 
I had a hall affect pickup in the distributor go bad once. Died sometimes and would start right back up.
 
(quoted from post at 22:11:45 04/24/13) Don't forget to pick up the special tool to remove the TFI module attachment screws. It's called the "TFI Module tool" and sells for about $5.00

If you don't have the tool the dist. must be pulled. Not that big a deal but if you have the tool the job goes faster.
 
I posted on here a few weeks back, my 89 F250 key
was hanging up in the switch. I sprayed WD40 in
there. Freed it up, and the starter now turns over
much faster. The switch had a bad connection.
 

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