Best way to transport a plow attached to an AC WD?

Will Herring · Mar 31, 2013

I've got a snap coupler plow on a WD that I need to transport about 7 miles on the road. I've got no problem driving the tractor there in road gear, but I was wondering if I should:

1) Leave the hydraulic lever all the way up (keep pumping)?
2) Leave the hydraulic lever in the center position when lifted (the "hold") position?
3) Use some sort of cylinder stop to hold the cylinder extended with the lever in the "down" position?

I want the safest route.

Tx Jim · Mar 31, 2013

Iwould leave lever in the neutral position after plow reached full raised hieght and the try to chain/block plow up in case of cyl or hose failure during trip.

Traditional Farmer · Mar 31, 2013

If the hydraulics are adjusted properly it won't keep pumping with the lever in the up positions.

M Nut · Mar 31, 2013

Hold position. Grandpa used to plow the garden for his minister
each spring, and he lived 7 miles from the farm. Grandpa would
drive his D-14 with the mounted plow and he always kept the
handle in the hold position. He never had any issues in doing that
for quite a few years.

Bob Bancroft · Mar 31, 2013

As I imagine you know, when the hyd. system is set properly for plowing(draft control), "hold" position is disabled. There is an inloader valve in the pump which enables you to lift a mounted piece of equipment and leave the lever all the way up.
So, either choice would work. Jim's idea about safetying the plow up is a good idea.

Bob Bancroft · Mar 31, 2013

sorry- even my proof reading fails-
"unloader"

Will Herring · Mar 31, 2013

(quoted from post at 14:26:54 03/31/13)
Iwould leave lever in the neutral position after plow reached full raised hieght and the try to chain/block plow up in case of cyl or hose failure during trip.

Where do you hook the chains to to hold the plow?

(quoted from post at 14:38:33 03/31/13) As I imagine you know, when the hyd. system is set properly for plowing(draft control), "hold" position is disabled. There is an inloader valve in the pump which enables you to lift a mounted piece of equipment and leave the lever all the way up.
So, either choice would work. Jim's idea about safetying the plow up is a good idea.

So ummm... If my middle position currently functions as "hold" for remote cylinders (ie. my disc), does that mean it isn't set up properly for plowing?

Anonymous-0 · Mar 31, 2013

BE sure that the bottom pin or latch is secure a loss could cause death from plow swinging up and over on you. old eqip needs att. RENE'

Bob Bancroft · Mar 31, 2013

Since the WD only has one lever, (unlike the D series) it has to do everything. To operate draft control("traction booster") the lift lever will set the draft/depth. Depending on how the linkage is adjusted, it could be very difficult, to impossible to get it to work properly with hold position enabled.
If you're not utilizing draft control, then I suppose it doesn't matter.
Many people are very confused by the WD hyd. system settings. The same label that was on the battery box is in the operators manual.
The D series pump is basically the same system, but controlled differently(two levers) and very few setting changes.

Nebraska Cowman · Mar 31, 2013

Correct. If it is set for the remote cylinder it is
NOT set for plowing. There would have been
originally instruction decal on the battery box to
show you how to change between "hold" "draft" and
"delayed lift" functions. The instruction will also
be in the owners manual. You will want to find those
instructions and set it accordingly.

Will Herring · Mar 31, 2013

(quoted from post at 15:20:17 03/31/13) Correct. If it is set for the remote cylinder it is
NOT set for plowing. There would have been
originally instruction decal on the battery box to
show you how to change between "hold" "draft" and
"delayed lift" functions. The instruction will also
be in the owners manual. You will want to find those
instructions and set it accordingly.

Okay, I see all the stuff in the manual about "drawbar control" (which seems to be related to plow-type implements) and what screws to set where. Excellent. Thanks.

VicS · Mar 31, 2013

Also if the springs are still on the upper links they will unhook if the snap-coupler unhooks for some reason. If you wire them, you are asking for trouble. I have a neighbor with a nasty scar on his back from that happening. He had just wired one side, thought if had wired both sides would have killed him. Vic

Will Herring · Mar 31, 2013

(quoted from post at 16:00:56 03/31/13) Also if the springs are still on the upper links they will unhook if the snap-coupler unhooks for some reason. If you wire them, you are asking for trouble. I have a neighbor with a nasty scar on his back from that happening. He had just wired one side, thought if had wired both sides would have killed him. Vic

Yeah the snap coupler and bell seem to be in good shape and are not loose, and the springs are still on the two snaps so that they will open and close.

I assume by wired you mean that they are wired on and do not "open" any more?

Tx Jim · Mar 31, 2013

(quoted from post at 13:02:44 03/31/13)

(quoted from post at 14:26:54 03/31/13)
Iwould leave lever in the neutral position after plow reached full raised hieght and the try to chain/block plow up in case of cyl or hose failure during trip.

Click to expand...

Where do you hook the chains to to hold the plow?

Will
I always attach my chain to a skyhook :lol:

Seriously I'm not familiar with an AC tractor & plow but if you'll post a photo I will try to help decide how to not have to trust a hyd cyl or hose for long distance road travel.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 31, 2013

If your hydraulics are functioning properly, you need do nothing. If
the plow drifts down after running for a while, you have a leak, and
need to address it. If you drop a plow on the road it won't
penetrate, just annoy you as metal wears off. All the stuff about the
plow rotating up, and hitting you in the head, is WHILE plowing
dirt, with upper links that WON'T release. Do not wire up the top
links, you want them to disconnect, as they were designed to, if the
lower link disconnects!

Bob Bancroft · Mar 31, 2013

Would be pretty tough to chain this up, unless you had a good sturdy back pocket to hook to!
Best way in this case would be angle irons clamped to the lift cylinders.

Will Herring · Mar 31, 2013

(quoted from post at 18:11:09 03/31/13) Would be pretty tough to chain this up, unless you had a good sturdy back pocket to hook to!
Best way in this case would be angle irons clamped to the lift cylinders.

Yeah, that is what I had in mind for cylinder stops. Neighbor used to have some great ones for his John Deere stuff that would allow locking stuff in the "up" position for road travel behind a tractor or a truck.

Traditional Farmer · Mar 31, 2013

The older plows didn't work off the snap coupler clamps they slid on the arm and were held by a pin

Anonymous-0 · Mar 31, 2013

I know what a hidden pin hitch is. He didn't say which type plow he has. Another poster said to wire up upper SC arms, so they won't open, in the event of a disconnect, at the bottom. The real danger, is converting a pin hitch coupler (at the bottom), but not changing over the top, too. Or wiring the upper snap couplers closed!

VicS · Mar 31, 2013

Yes that is what I meant. No worry if the top
couplers are spring loaded.

VicS · Mar 31, 2013

Yes that is what I meant. Vic

wolfman · Mar 31, 2013

You have to raise the plow-lever all the way up-,
then back the lever off about a notch til you hear
it quit pumping. You can 'hear' how much you need
to back off the lever. You can definitely "feel"
when tractor loosens up.

Traditional Farmer · Apr 1, 2013

I always liked to put a safety chain on the tongue of the plow regardless.

Best way to transport a plow attached to an AC WD?

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