home made box blades

Wile E

Well-known Member
I am thinking about making my own box blade for the gravel soup driveway this spring.
Have any guys on here made their own box blade and have pictures of it that can be shown on this site. I would like to get some ideas before I just grab some plate steel and start cutting and welding.
I also dont want to spend $650 on a basic box grader blade that I can make with $150 in steel.
 
Do you have a regular 3pt blade? Make pieces of plate steel that you can bolt onto each end of your blade. With some angles to attach the plate to the blade and a bracing bar at the top front of the piece of plate , you can have a very workable box blade for not much cost.
 
Wile E,
Here are some pictures of my John Deere blade I put ends on the blade attached with two bolts along with some caster wheels I saved off of an old row crop cultivator. I'm going to add some metal to the bottom of the end plates so it rides over the ground better without sinking in. the height of the wheels are adjustable too. It works good for what I use it the for. The driveway rock and last fall I got a load of topsoil in the front yard to spread around to fill in the low spots so it's not so rough riding when I mow the grass.
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Some implements are just better to buy. I bet the steel would cost a lot more than $150 and then you'd have to get it rolled, and preferably broke(bent) to have a flush mount grader blade. The grader blade will probably cost about $75 or more by itself. If you don't put a grader blade on it, it's not worth building. Just like a bobcat with a bolt on edge for clearing snow. It would wear out in no time. I would think the cost of steel and forming it would be be closer to 4 or $500 and that's not including any of your time and other expenses to build it. Too light of box blade will bend up like a pretzel if it gets caught on something.
 
I currently don't have pictures as I take mine off in the winter. I do this so I can have a regular back blade to move snow as a backup unit. I took two steel plates and bolted them to the back side brace on the back blade with two 3/8" bolts with spacers on each side. I then ran a scrap piece of u shaped bar as a middle brace between the two side plates.
 
Actually I can get some of the steel for free.
What I am talking about is not a bona-fide box blade but a steel bar with sides, weighs in at 200 lbs. Then I would have it set up with 2 plates welded to a Vee and just load some salt bags on this for extra weight.
There is a guy who is selling a New Holland t2420 on ebay with a home made welded thing I am thinking of. Type in new holland t2420 and take a look at this rear 3pt setup. The tractor is very nice, parked on the gravel he has been grading with it.
I do purchasing for a company and I buy steel and aluminum....steel plate isnt as pricy as you think.
 
I really like this idea! I have a 5' King Kutter back blade on my JD M. I've thought about a box blade several times but never found one I could justify buying in the size I wanted. Thanks for the pictures.
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Very cool, thanks for the yootube video.
I would like just a hook up to the rear 3 pt.
Those graders on that video are way overkill for what I need and want.
 
I dont think my wimpy 1 liter diesel will pull a 6 foot box blade, I think I really need a 4 footer.
Do you have a 4 footer?
 
Is that a green troybilt tiller in the fourth pic, I have thought about painting mine green since it works so good.
 

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