OT:2001 Chevy 2500 fuel pump?

2x4

Well-known Member
2001 Chevy 2500 6.0 l. engine. Went 4 miles from the house to help cut up trees from the tornado. Parked outside HQ to ask where they needed help. P-up running great, shut down normally. Tried to start it, run but die, run, die few seconds later. Ran rough what few seconds it ran, then died, numerous times. Check fuses, OK; new fuel filter (Prolly first ever) at 120,000. Well used when I got it. No difference. Pull my 2000 up beside the "01. Can't hear fuel pump in tank of "01, can hear it on '00. Mileage is about right for fuel pump to go. Owners Manual doesn't even mention having a fuel filter, much less how to change in-tank fuel pump. Have put a new fuel pump in my '89 Nissan. Question is how do I do it with this beast? Of course, I just put 30 gal. in the tank.
 
My experience with chevy fuel pumps is that we crawl under the truck, loosen the bed bolts slide the bed back and then you are on top of the tank, Some of them, particulary S 10 have all the connections there, all covered with dirt, but a lot easier to cleanup and take the unit out, Some units have O rings and twist tops. Generally use a punch to get them to twist.
 
Just lift the bed with an engine lift. Remove the bed bolts and the two wiring plugs that are just in front of bumper Filler neck must be taken loose at side of bed. I cut a piece of 2by 6 that fit under the bed rails to lift the bed. Easy to get the balance. Roll the bed back the three feet you need to work. I bought my pump on Amazon for under $100. Great deal and work fine No need to remove fuel in tank or deal with working under truck too much
 
Have a 2001 Yukon. Have done the fuel pump TWICE in 120,000 miles. Used a genuine GM/Delphi replacement the first time. BTW, NO box you can left up or slide back on THAT beast!
 
Sometimes if you give the bottom of the fuel tank below the fuel pump a good wack with a hammer, it will start the fuel pump working to allow you to move the vehicle or pull it into a garage. If it does start, don"t turn it off until you have it moved to where you want. The trick has worked several times allowing us to get the vehicles inside to shop. Just my 2cents.
 
Once you do get the bed off or drop the tank you might want to check the power wires going to the pump--- I have a 92 3500 and my truck acted the same way towed it home dropped the tank and was told to check the wires before putting the tank back in---YEP A GREY WIRE HAD ROTTED_BROKEN. That of course after $240 pump that the ends of the old one broke off . Just my 2 cents
 
Take all four front bolts out that hold the bed to the frame. Loosen the rear two but do not remove. Then have 2-3 friends help you raise the front of the bed up and prop it up with 4 x 4's. This is the easiest way to access a fuel pump. I put two fuel pumps on my little chevy blazer and they went out a month apart just due to a clogged filter.
 
We've done a lot them around here. That's one of the few downfalls I've found on Chevy/Gmc's. On our service truck we dropped the tank to get to it. Is it possible to cut you a hole right above in your bed to get to the pump? Then just put a patch over it. Heard of it being done that way, but never did it.
 
Been there with mine. The replacement Delco whined almost as bad as the factor pump that failed.
Truck was loosing power on hills due to low fuel pressure . 2nd replacement was a Carter E85 compatable pump purchased through Summit Racing.
Truck has never ran so quiet or so well since.
 
yes it would be possible with the tool body bed. just a sheet of plate metal, one layer, as far as know.
 
Ultradog,
come up to Foley MN, the dealer there has a shop rate of only 75 an hour and the newest partsman is a tractor lover...

karl f
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top