Solder Seal Heat Shrink connectors

Dean Olson

Well-known Member
I'm getting ready to rewire a 54 Farmall super H and wanted to go a
step better than crimp connectors. Apparently an electric heat gun
gets hot enough to melt the solder and shrink the tubing.

Anybody using these and what do you think?
 
Even a lighter will work. If you have a heat gun should work as long as you don't get it too hot. I think the little butane torches would be ideal for heat shrink tubing. I've used a propane torch but it's a little big.
 
Solder with rosin core flux solder only. Then do your heat shrink. I don't know any other way. But I am old timey electrician. I could be wrong. Tell me if you have a better way. I am correctible even at 69 with 40 years of experience. Good luck. Dave
 
This is a new or at least new to me technology.

These connectors look like a standard crimp connector. They have a solder pellet/ring molded into the shrink tubing that you pass the wire/wires through then heat.

The solder melts making the connection and the shrink tubing seals all in one step. Directions call for a electric heat gun but say a torch will work but guard against scorching.

Online demo shows a connector holding an 8lb weight and not coming apart.

Sure looks easier than the traditional soldering process especially in tight spots.
 
Barn E, I agree with you. I do a lot of wiring, and as far as i am concerned solder, with resin or rosin flux, and then heat shrink, preferably with the heatshrink that has glue in it is the only way to go.
 
Guys,

"Solder Seal Heat Shrink" is a brand of connectors similar to crimp connectors.

I'm a plumber and old school solder expert. I even learned how to solder lead and wipe a lead joint back in the day. Now I'm really dating myself.

This is a newer technology.
 
I do not like those style connector when solder his hot enogh to melt it blows a hole in shrink tube and they are very expensive.just solder connection then shrink it.
 
They have been around for a long time now. At least 8 or 10 years. I don't like em. In my mind a short can get it how enough to melt the solder. So you fix the short and now have a questionable connection. I solder with a higher temp solder and then put on shrink tube.

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Project I'm working one.

Rick
 
Are you talking about the Raychem splices? Although they are just now carried at places like Home Depot, the military was using them 25 years ago. Very good splices, if done correctly.
 
Thanks to all, I appreciate your opinions.

I'll do my old school solder with that new fangled shrink tube instead of black tape.
 
(quoted from post at 04:27:17 01/06/13) Are you talking about the Raychem splices? Although they are just now carried at places like Home Depot, the military was using them 25 years ago. Very good splices, if done correctly.

Yes, they are very good, BUT, I think many here believe they are soldered joints; they are NOT. They are better than crimp type, but only because of the shrinkable plastic being built into the connector.
 
Dean
Shucks, you aren't that old. Learned to wipe lead telephone cable splices in 63. Civilian outfits like Bell & AT&T were switching to plastic, but military still had lead/paper. Trick was to get it hot enuff to get a good waterproof solder joint, but not hot enuff to char/burn the paper insulation inside.
Willie USAF 61-65
 
Cold solder joint anyone? My take is that, yes, the solder melts and runs into the "splice", but does it really run on the copper? Or does it just go around it and hold it in place against itself? With the heatshrink in place it will probably be a good deal, but I would rather solder it in the open, and then use the heatshrink with the adhesive, similar to hotglue, inside it. Time consuming? Yep, but oh so permanent.

Remember the cold solder irons a few years back? They had their place, but not on my bench.
 
Crimping is supposed to make a higher quality less susceptible to vibration. Get a good crimping tool and crimp everything. Check each connection by pulling on it, then heat shrink it.
 
When making battery cables, I crimp, then solder and then heat shrink. The solder stops the corrosion from wicking up the cable. I also do this on smaller wires at work since I work for a roads department and fight the salt corrosion everyday. chris
 
(quoted from post at 20:27:17 01/05/13) Are you talking about the Raychem splices? Although they are just now carried at places like Home Depot, the military was using them 25 years ago. Very good splices, if done correctly.


These have been used in aviation for quite a few years. A cold solder joint at high altitude is bad news. They are an excellant wire splice method.
 
I'm not doing an exact restoration. More like a reconditioning. Old school doesn't mean using inferior materials or techniques.
 

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